Goi
Dec 2007

Eating in Phú Quốc

The Astronomer and I just got back from the most kick-ass vacation ever! Phu Quoc Island off the coast of Vietnam and Cambodia is paradise on earth. Seriously. Clear turquoise waters, abundant sunshine, sandy beaches, and seafood a plenty. Heavenly.

We arrived last Friday morning and flew home Monday afternoon. In between, we sunned on the beach, snorkeled, read, relaxed, and ate extremely well.

After checking in at our hotel and dropping off our luggage, we walked into town in search of lunch. The Astronomer was starving and impulsively chose Thuy Duong at 25 Nguyen Trai Street. The place was infested with flies, which killed my appetite, but The Astronomer ordered a bowl of hu tieu dai muc anyway. When the bowl arrived, it looked SO good that I had to order myself one. The noodle dish was comprised of a pork-based broth, a transparent and chewy noodle (hu tieu dai), bean sprouts, fresh scallions, and lightly cooked squid (muc). Everything tasted so fresh and the squid blew our minds. I think the squid in Phu Quoc has forever ruined squid elsewhere for me.


After lunch, we headed to the market to look around and score some more eats. I bought lots of fruit, while The Astronomer procured cookies (banh kep) and a barbecued meatball sandwich (banh mi nem nuong. The sandwich was good, but his heart remains true to the banh mi thit nuong in District 4.

Dinnertime brought more delicious squid! We stayed close to home and ate at our resort—Kim Nam Phuong. We ordered squid sauteed with garlic and ginger (top row, right) and a plate of pan fried noodles with squid and shrimp. The dishes were stellar all around. I love how seafood is completely satisfying and not too filling.

For breakfast the next morning, I ate fruit and cereal, while The Astronomer ordered a pineapple crepe from the resort. We ate our selections beach side, ah… The Astronomer thought the crepe was a bit dough-y, but a great way to start the day nevertheless. After breakfast, we decided to upgrade our lodging and moved to the Tropicana Resort.

After we set up our new digs and lounged around in the sun, we headed to the Troicana’s sweet beach front dining deck for lunch.

The Astronomer ordered fish with chilies and lemongrass, while I ordered a squid salad. The fish was a bit spicy for The Astronomer, while I found my salad average. The Tropicana may have nicer bungalows, but the chefs at the Kim Nam Phuong are superior.

The following day, The Astronomer and I went on an all-day snorkeling excursion along the southern islands of Phu Quoc. The sites were postcard perfect and the food on board was expertly prepared. The best dish was the squid sauteed with pineapples and tomatoes. This was hands down the most wonderful squid I have ever tasted. Who would have thought squid could melt in one’s mouth? I really don’t think I could ever order calamari at an Italian restaurant ever again. Another great dish was the fried fish, which was covered with red chili flakes.

Now that I’m back in Saigon, I will be dreaming about the fruits of the sea in Phu Quoc until I return.

Dec 2007

The Sushi Bar – Ho Chi Minh City

November 19-20, 2007
Cuisine: Japanese

No 2, Le Thanh Ton Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 8238042
Website: http://www.sushibar.com.vn/

Miso Soup

Chawanmushi

Nigiri Sushi Teishoku (78,000 VND)

Gyuniku Tataki (30,000 VND)

Chirashi Sushi Teishok (78,000 VND)

Zaru Soba Noodles (48,000 VND)

Two weeks ago, The Astronomer and I had a really rough couple of days. First, we were given a ridiculously last-minute assignment for work and then we were told we had to move out of our apartment ASAP. In the words of Cher from the movie “Clueless”—

I felt impotent and out of control. Which I really, really hate. I had to find sanctuary in a place where I could gather my thoughts and regain my strength…

Enter: The Sushi Bar.

The one thing that made the stresses from work and moving a little better was some fine Japanese food served in an air conditioned restaurant.

On our first visit to The Sushi Bar, The Astronomer and I both had set lunches, which came with miso soup and Chawanmushi. I ordered the Chirashi Sushi Teishok, while The Astronomer had some delicate pieces of Nigiri Sushi.

The Chirashi is comprised of a bowl of sushi rice topped with pieces of salmon, tuna, clam, tomago and shrimp, pickled ginger and sprouts. The fish was high-qual and so, so good. The accompanying miso soup was average, while the Chawanmushi, an egg custard cup with shrimp, pork, and a shitake mushroom, was uninspiring.

The Astronomer’s Nigiri Sushi was lovely as well. The rice was loosely packed, while the fish was very fresh. He passed the tomago my way because he doesn’t like eggs. Yay, for me.

On our second visit to The Sushi Bar the following day, I ordered the Chirashi set lunch again, while The Astronomer went for a roast beef roll and soba noodles.

The roast beef roll tasted as I suspected—beefy. I prefer my sushi raw. The soba noodles, which were served with a soy broth, fresh scallions and radish, were refreshingly cool, but missing a certain oomph. Some vegetable and shrimp tempura would have made the soba outstanding.

I love street food, but when I need luxury and thoughtful service, pass the sushi.

Nov 2007

Bánh Xèo 46A – Ho Chi Minh City

 

November 16, 2007
Cuisine: Vietnamese

46A Dinh Cong Trang Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: (04) 824 1110
Website: none

Goi Cuon (50,000 VND)

Cha Gio (50,000 VND)

Banh Xeo Dac Biet (35,000 VND)

Everyone and their mother knows about Banh Xeo 46A. What was once a local joint with a dash of tourists has become the premiere destination for Vietnamese crepes in the city.

Job well done to the PR folks behind this restaurant.

Based on a recommendation from a fellow Viet Kieu, I visited on a Friday night with The Astronomer and our friend Zach. The metal tables and patio seating reminded me of eating lunch in the quad back in high school.

The eatery was bumpin’ the entire time we were there, which was cool because big crowds equal sweet atmosphere.

We started off the evening with ten cha gio and ten goi cuon. I love eating with boys with hearty appetites. The cha gio were the fattiest (you know, wide) ones yet and filled with a pork and crab mixture that rocked all of our taste buds. A little lettuce leaf wrapping and a dip of nuoc cham made the cha gio even better. These may rival Yen Do as my favorite cha gio in the city.

The goi cuon were awesome as well. They were larger than average and packed with the freshest shrimp, pork, herbs and vermicelli noodles around.

[Hmm… I’m sensing a trend here. I think 46A’s popularity with westerners has led them to super-size their portions.]

The house specialty banh xeo was stuffed with an abundance of pork belly slices, shrimp, bean sprouts and onions. The proper way of eating banh xeo is by wrapping up a piece of the crepe in greens and herbs and dipping it in nuoc cham. However, I still eat it the no fuss way my mom prepared it while growing up—small bowl + banh xeo + nuoc cham – greens and herbs.

The crepe was good, but a little soggy in some parts and in my opinion, not worthy of the hype machine.

The hype should instead focus on the cha gio, because they were so freakin’ delicious!