Sep 2007

Công Trường – Ho Chi Minh City

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Cong Truong has been serving up small snacks and ice cream since before the fall of Saigon. My mom, aunts, and uncles used to chill here when they were youngsters, which is such a trip and further adds to its appeal. The shop is located across the street from Hồ Con Rùa (Turtle Lake) near a busy traffic circle that’s rowdy during the day, but actually quite pleasant in the evening. My mom’s cousin Cau Hai introduced me to Cong Truong and their famous kem dua during my first weekend in the city and I try to swing by whenever I’m in the neighborhood.

The kem (ice cream) dua (coconut) is served inside a fresh young coconut and adorned with crushed peanuts, dried bananas, a bit of pineapple, and topped with a dried plum “cherry.” The coconut’s juice is chilled and served on the side.

The kem dua is more similar to a sorbet than an ice cream, which is welcomed because dairy can be too heavy in Saigon’s balmy weather. The subtle sweetness of coconut permeates the kem dua entirely and scraping the coconut’s flesh adds a texturally interesting element to the treat; further intensifying the coconut experience. The peanuts, bananas, and pineapple play off the coconut’s flavors well and add to the sundae’s complexity.

Kem dua brings a taste of the tropics to a bustling and chaotic city.

Công Trường
Corner of Vo Van Tan & Pham Ngoc Thach
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Aug 2007

Vegetation Profile: Longan

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The Longan is a tropical tree native to southern China. The tree is very sensitive to frost. It is also found in Indonesia and Southeast Asia. It is also called guiyuan (桂圆) in Chinese, lengkeng in Indonesia, mata kucing in Malaysia, and quả nhãn in Vietnamese. The longan (“dragon eyes”) is so named because of the fruit’s resemblance to an eyeball when it is shelled (the black seed shows through the translucent flesh like a pupil/iris).

The fruit is edible, and is often used in East Asian soups, snacks, desserts, and sweet-and-sour foods. They are round with a thin, brown-coloured inedible shell. The flesh of the fruit, which surrounds a big, black seed, is translucent white, soft, and juicy.

When I first arrived in Saigon, my grandpa’s younger brother Ong Ti stopped by my office to say hello. He arrived with a smile and huge bag of nhãn as a welcome gift. The nhãn were very dusty upon arrival, but I washed them thoroughly in water, removed them from their stems, and refrigerated them uncovered in bowls. For the following three weeks, The Astronomer and I were able to snack on nhãn to our hearts’ content. After years of eating canned nhãn coated in heavy syrup, it was a welcomed treat to finally taste the real thing.

Aug 2007

Vegetation Profile: Pitaya

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The pitaya (also known as pitahaya, dragon fruit, huǒ lóng guǒ (火龍果/火龙果), strawberry pear, nanettikafruit, or thanh long) is the fruit of several cactus species, especially of the genus Hylocereus, but also see Stenocereus. Native to Mexico and Central and South America, these vine-like epiphytic cacti are also cultivated in Southeast Asian countries such as Vietnam, the Philippines, and Malaysia. They are also found in Taiwan, Okinawa, Israel, and southern China. The pitaya only blooms at night; they are large white flowers that are often called Moonflower or Queen of the Night.

Thanh long is hands down the most visually arresting fruit in all of the land. However, its taste is nowhere near as spectacular as its appearance. Underneath the magenta skin lies the fruit’s white flesh, which is full of tiny, edible seeds. Thanh long tastes similar to a kiwi, but its sweetness is one-dimensional and lacks any sort of tartness. Consuming the entire fruit at once bores my taste buds, so salads are the way to go for enjoying this particular piece of vegetation.