Aug 2007

Quán Ăn Ngon – Ho Chi Minh City

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August 17, 2007
Cuisine: Vietnamese

138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 088257179
Website: none

Our colleague Mimi invited us to lunch last Friday and suggested we dine at Quán Ăn Ngon. According to numerous guidebooks and tourist websites, a trip to Saigon isn’t complete without eating here at least once. The restaurant serves spiffed-up of versions of traditional street food in a tropical space resembling a Hollister store. Quán Ăn Ngon’s chief diners are Pepto-Bismol popping tourists and Vietnamese residents with cash to burn. The restaurant opened in 2001 and is always packed during peak dining hours.

Word on the street is that the restaurant’s owner, a Viet Kieu (overseas Vietnamese), scoured the streets of Saigon and recruited the best cooks in town to prepare their dishes at Quán Ăn Ngon. Without a central kitchen, these “chefs” cook up their specialties along the perimeter of the eatery for the viewing pleasure of diners (see video below).

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Similar to Vietnamese-American Restaurants, Quán Ăn Ngon’s menu is extensive. I felt like Barry Schwartz shopping for jeans at the Gap while trying to narrow down what to eat. I eventually settled on the bo bia (10,000 VND) and banh tam bi (20,000), while The Astronomer ordered com thit nuong (25,000 VND) and banh tom ho tay (20,000 VND). Mimi suggested we share a plate rau muong xao toi (22,000 VND) and I agreed.

The best thing I had at the restaurant was the rau muong xao toi, which is water spinach sautéed in garlic. Even though I had stinky breath for the rest of the day, it was totally worth it! The Astronomer agreed that the rau muong was awesome. The rest of my selections were ho hum. If cleaning up street food means taking away most of the flavor, then I’ll pass. The Astronomer liked his dishes, but didn’t think they were any tastier than what he’s eaten on the streets or in grimy establishments for half the price.

Eating Vietnamese food in a Hollister store is pretty cool, but we’ll stick to the streets next time.

Aug 2007

Bánh Chưng & Bánh Giò

During Tết (Luner New Year) this year, I was sick as a dog and desperately craving bánh chưng—a sticky rice cake filled with meat, pork fat, black pepper, and mung bean paste wrapped-up in banana leaves. I couldn’t get my hands on one because the lone Vietnamese grocery store in Philly on Washington Avenue was too far to walk to in my weakened state. Oh, how I yearned…

Growing up, banh chung was always consumed during Tết and was as much a part of the holiday as li xi (gifts of money in red envelopes). My cousins and I called the treat “foot cake,” which is the literal translation of bánh (cake) chưng (foot).

Since my arrival in Saigon, I have developed an obsession of sorts with foot cake due to my deprivation earlier this year. I estimate that I have consumed 5+ cakes in the past three weeks. The bánh chưng in Saigon are a smidge fattier than the ones in the states because they contain more fat than actual meat, but are truly just as good.

Lunch 8-13

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While wandering around town during lunch the other day, I found a woman selling bánh chưng (4,000 VND) and banh gio (4,000 VND) and The Astronomer and I decided to have one of each. We sat on some beach chairs lining the sidewalk covered by an awning, while the woman plated our selections. Both the bánh chưng and banh gio are pre-made and ready to eat. Using a sharp knife, she cut through the countless layers of banana leaves to unveil each delight.

The inherent stickiness of the bánh chưng is a turn off for The Astronomer, but I simply adore the cake’s texture and the faint taste of banana leaves ingrained in the rice. The mung bean paste is savory and works beautifully with the pork and rice.

The banh gio, which I learned how to make earlier this summer with my grandma, was really delicious as well. This version was softer in texture than my grandma’s and contained two quail eggs that were especially yummy. Similar to the bánh chưng, the essence of banana leaves seeped into the banh gio adding a layer of complexity.

Aug 2007

Saigon Food Court

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For a quick refreshment break our Food Court on the 3rd Floor of the Diamond Department Store provides international convenience food including pizza, pasta, Lotteria hamburgers, Korean specialties, ice cream, fruit juice and coffee. For customers with a taste for chicken, a KFC Restaurant is located on the 4th Floor. Coffee and light snacks can be enjoyed in the open air at Highlands Coffee, adjacent to the Department Store main entrance.

Diamond Plaza
34 Le Duan Boulevard
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City