Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Street Food

09 Aug 2007

Cơm Bình Dân – Workers' Lunch

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With the help of Rad and his wife, The Astronomer and I scored a spacious three-bedroom/two-bathroom apartment on the 9th floor of a high-rise building in District 4 soon after we arrived in Saigon. Although its a bit far from the touristy-action of District 1, we’re settling in nicely and discovering lots to like about the place everyday.

We moved into our new space on our third day in Saigon. After spending the morning unpacking, we headed out to explore our ‘hood and to find some grub in the afternoon. Clueless about our new surroundings, we stumbled into a small, residential neighborhood with narrow streets. With the assistance of a woman selling che (a genre of Vietnamese desserts) on the street, we found a home selling Com Binh Dan—cheap eats for laborers/workers. The woman running the joint had a kind face and her food looked pretty darn good, so The Astronomer and I decided go for it.

Com Binh Dan almost always consists of big plate of rice, some sort of boiled or pickled vegetable, canh (soup), and a selection of meat dishes. From the extensive choices available, I chose the thit kho (braised pork with eggs), dau hu kho (braised tofu), and mam (fermented fish and pork). I opted not to have any canh. The rice was a little dry, but all the dishes tasted just like grandma’s cooking. Mmm!

The Astronomer chose a piece of curry chicken, fried chicken, and dau hu kho. He didn’t like the pickled mustard greens and bean sprouts that came with his plate, so he passed them on to me. The curry chicken was his favorite, while the fried chicken was only so-so.

The Astronomer and I ate our lunches at the woman’s house on low plastic chairs and a slightly taller table. We shelled out 17,000 VND ($1.06) for our meal. We returned a few days later for lunch, but this time we took our meal to go, which was a much better choice.

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After such a pleasant experience with Com Binh Dan in our neighborhood, we decided to try a place near our office located off of Ba Tháng Hai street in District 10. I once again had thit kho, while The Astronomer had dau hu xa (tofu with lemongrass). We both had small bowls of canh. The food here was not nearly as flavorful as in our neighborhood and the ratio of rice to meat was fit for a famine. What really icked me out was the skinny cat sitting underneath our table; this was easily the worst meal we’ve had since our arrival. The cost of this meal was 16,000 VND ($1).

The workers are hungry, not desperate.

Restaurant Review

08 Aug 2007

Saigon River Dinner Cruise

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During our year-long stay in Vietnam, The Astronomer and I are working for a humanitarian organization called East Meets West. We reported to our first day of work on August 1st. In my brief employment history, my first day at East Meets West goes down as the best. We started off by talking to our boss Rad for an hour or two, then we wrote one-pagers about our interests and skills, and then we went on a site visit to two hospitals (one public and one semi-private). At the hospitals, we met some children who are benefiting from East Meets West’s program, “Operation Healthy Heart.” As if that weren’t exciting enough, later that evening we went out to dinner with Rad’s family and a visiting doctor from the states.

At around 7 PM we boarded a boat resembling a giant fish on the Saigon River for an evening of fine dining and entertainment. We relaxed and left the ordering to Mrs. Rad. The Astronomer and I both opted for Soda Chanh (lime juice, sugar, soda water) to start. Even though I avoid drinking my calories in America, I’m branching out while in Vietnam because the water quality is poor.

We started off with a crab and white asparagus soup that reminded me of Aunt Tina’s seafood soup served at my family’s Christmas gatherings. Following the soup were some wonderful cha gio (egg rolls), which I dipped in fish sauce to add a little zing. The Astronomer consumed six egg rolls and would have eaten more, but he didn’t want to look too piggish in front of our hosts. Our final appetizer was goi tom thit (salad with pork and shrimp) served with shrimp chips. The salad was especially delicious this evening because I had gone through so many days without fresh vegetables.

Our main dishes included steamed giant prawns, bo luc lac (steak with French Fries), chicken with oyster mushrooms, fried rice, and rau (greens). The prawns were a bitch to peel and sorta tasteless; the cost to benefit ratio was low to negative. The steak and fries were a garlicky treat, especially dipped in some catsup. The steak was the tastiest well-done meat I’ve had in ages. I was completely stuffed by the time the chicken arrived, so I only ate some mushrooms. The fried rice was seasoned to perfection and the greens were good as well, but both arrived a little late in the game. All in all, the food on the boat was top-notch. We’re looking forward to taking The Astronomer’s family on board when they visit in December.

A meal on a fish-shaped boat would not be complete without some hip gyration and pyrotechnics. How does she do that?

Restaurant Review

07 Aug 2007

Fancy Shmancy: Sen, Phở 24, Bánh Cuốn Lá

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Transitioning from American food to Vietnamese street food was a lot more difficult than I anticipated. During our first two days in Saigon, The Astronomer and I stayed in our comfort zones and ate at restaurants heavily influenced by Western aesthetics. The tables were far off the ground, menus contained English translations and set prices, walls were painted vibrant colors, floors were spotless, waiters donned matching uniforms, and napkins were readily available. The only thing Vietnamese about these joints was the cuisine. Even though we felt like schmucks paying higher prices for superficiality, we clung to the safety of the familiar.

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Our first experience in Vietnamese “haute” cuisine was at Sen – Hue Restaurant. By the way, Sen refers to the lotus flower that grows throughout Vietnam. After receiving Free Hugs from giddy teen girls on our first morning in the city, The Astronomer was hungry for a second breakfast. He liked what he read on the menu placed outside Sen, so we headed in and were seated at a smallish table for two.

What stood out most about Sen was their tableware – plates, bowls, cups, spoons, and dishes all contained the purple Sen logo and were glazed a serene green. Such attention to detail was a bit unnerving, but admittedly appealing. The Astronomer ordered Bun Thit Nuong (vermicelli noodles with grilled pork) and thought it comparable to versions he’s had in the states. Even though he was warned incessantly by guidebooks and his mother to avoid fresh vegetables, he went ahead and ate the greens accompanying the bun.

Sen had a Happy Hour special during our visit and thus we received a free dessert, Che Troi Nuoc. Traditionally, this dessert consists of gelatinous balls filled with sweet mung beans, but Sen’s version contained a beef and shrimp mixture. The balls sat in a gingery broth and were topped with toasted sesame seeds. The che was very good, but I prefer the mung bean version.

We ended our meal with lotus blossom tea and candied ginger. The total cost of this meal was $4.08.

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Our second foray into fancy Saigon dining was at Pho 24, which boasts over 200 locations throughout Vietnam and South East Asia. I ordered pho tai sach (beef noodle soup with tripe), while The Astronomer had pho tai (no tripe). Our bowls of pho were pretty wimpy compared to the enormous bowls served in America, but the quality was superb and the broth was so good that we slurped it all up. Our pho‘s accompaniments (limes, bean sprouts, basil, etc.) were served on a square plate! My bowl of pho was priced at $1.25 (20,000 VND), while The Astronomer’s was $1.10. Dirt cheap by American standards, but moderate on the Vietnam scale.

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Our final fancy feast was at Banh Cuon La. Craving fruit like no other, I ordered com chien trai cay (fried rice with fruits). The rice contained watermelon, apples, and carrots and was topped with slices of strawberries. I added a bit of soy sauce to bring out the fruits’ sweetness. Although fried rice with fruits sounds a bit odd, it’s really very tasty.

The Astronomer ordered banh cuon thit cha bong (thin rice flour crepes with dried pork) and a sinh to dau (strawberry smoothie). The banh cuon was good, but the meager portion left The Astronomer hungry—one American trend yet to catch on in Saigon is giant portions. The strawberry smoothie was a refreshing treat.