Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Restaurant Review

13 Jul 2007

Buddakan – Philadelphia

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June 26, 2007
Cuisine: Asian, Eclectic & International, Pan-Asian & Pacific Rim

325 Chestnut St, Philadelphia 19106
Btwn S 3rd St & S 4th St

Phone: 215-574-9440
Website: http://www.buddakan.com/

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Appetizer: Crispy Calamari Salad ($9)

Entree I: Grilled Teriyaki Salmon – served with stir fried long beans, cream cheese and arugula sushi rolls ($25)

Entree II: Asian Barbeque Pork – grilled tenderloin with Chinese broccoli and giant panko crusted onion rings ($26)

Dessert I: “Dip Sum” Doughnuts – five spice sugar doughnuts, blackberry jam, chocolate sauce, gingered cream cheese ($9)

Dessert II: Banana Tower – rum glazed bananas, caramel cream in a cookie tower ($9)

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Philly diners either love or hate Steven Starr, but there’s no denying that he is an influential player in the city’s food scene. I have always been an enthusiast of Starr’s restaurants and believe that his venues add value and variety to the dining landscape.

I once read that Starr built his empire around booze and babes, but for a gal who hardly ever drinks and is happily smooching one Astronomer, I enjoy his joints for a simpler reason—Starr and his minions crank out some really good eats. Striped Bass, Alma de Cuba, and Morimoto are all stellar, but Buddakan remains my favorite through and through.

For my last supper in the City of Brotherly love, The Astronomer and I headed to Old City to pay the obnoxious, glowing Buddha one last visit. For a Tuesday evening, the restaurant was packed and loud. In fact, the main dining room was so noisy that we requested a different table from our original seating. We were ultimately placed upstairs in a table next to the one we sat at on New Year’s Eve (!), which made conversation easier on the pipes.

Buddakan’s entrees and desserts have always been right on point, but their appetizers tend to leave me dissatisfied. We asked our waiter for a recommendation and he suggested we try the Crispy Calamari Salad. A small order of the salad was humongous and composed of five different types of greens including Napa cabbage, bok choy, and watercress. The salad was topped with a sweet miso dressing that complemented the greens and calamari wonderfully. The salad was cool, refreshing, and a great start to our dinner.

For our entrees, The Astronomer and I ordered our two favorite dishes, the Grilled Teriyaki Salmon and Asian Barbecue Pork. I requested the salmon be prepared rare and it came out just as I asked, which kept the meat tender yet flakey. The cream cheese and arugula sushi rolls were amazing (as always) and were my favorite part of the dish. Although the combination of ingredients inside the sushi may sound a bit strange, trust me when I say that the flavors really meld nicely together.

The pork dish was also delectable, especially the gigantic panko crusted onion rings. The pork tenderloin was thinly sliced, served in a hoisin based sauce, and arranged beautifully on the platter. The meat was moist and paired well with the sautéed Chinese broccoli. The Astronomer loves eating his greens when they’re covered in a delicious glaze.

For dessert we each ordered our own delight because The Astronomer dislikes bananas and I had to have a Banana Tower. I enjoyed a Banana Tower once prior with my brother but haven’t ordered it for a long while due to The Astronomer’s aversion. While I would normally insist on splitting dessert, since it was our final dinner in the city, splurging on two was totally acceptable.

The Tower combines two of my favorite ingredients—bananas and caramel—in a thick and buttery cookie. I enjoyed demolishing the cookie Tower and coupling it with the caramel pudding and ripe bananas. It’s amazingly easy to finish a dessert solo when it’s this divine.

The Astronomer enjoyed his donuts thoroughly and had a look of utter bliss on his face as he ate them. The donuts appeared to be a lot bigger than the ones served in the past, but The Astronomer managed to finish them with ease. The blackberry and ginger cream cheese were his favorite accompaniments.

Our dinner at Buddakan was unbelievably marvelous and provided the perfect ending to our Philadelphia adventure. Peace, Philly.

Restaurant Review

13 Jul 2007

Crepêrie Beau Monde – Philadelphia

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June 24, 2007
Cuisine: French, Desserts & Bakeries, Other

624 S 6th Street, Philadelphia 19147
At Bainbridge St

Phone: 215-592-0656
Website: www.creperie-beaumonde.com

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Entree I: Smoked Salmon / Saumon Fume Buckwheat Crêpe – with roasted leeks and crème fraîche ($10)

Entree II: Mushrooms/Champignons Buckwheat Crêpe – saute of wild & domestic mushrooms and mushroom sauce ($7)

Dessert I: Wheat Crêpe with Bananas and Dulce de Leche ($6.75)

Dessert II: Wheat Crêpe with Fresh Raspberries, Chocolate and Vanilla Ice Cream ($11.75)

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By now, longtime readers of gas•tron•o•my probably know that The Astronomer and I simply adore Crepêrie Beau Monde. Every time we have friends or family in town or are asked for restaurant recommendations, we always insist upon Beau Monde for their wonderful crêpes and unparalleled atmosphere. I have been dining here since my college days and will not likely find crêpes better than Beau Monde’s anywhere, unless of course I’m in the Breton region of France!

For our penultimate meal in the city, The Astronomer and I headed to Beau Monde for one final feast of crêpes. Since I will not be returning to the restaurant in the near future due to my pending move, I figured it would be best to stick to my favorites rather than experiment with new ingredients. I ordered the mushroom savory crêpe and the dulce de leche with bananas sweet crêpe, both of which I’ve had on many occasions. The savory and sweet crêpes were as delightful as I remembered, but a tad drier than the ones I’ve had prior. Who knows when my next trip to Beau Monde will be, but I will request saucier crêpes when I return.

The Astronomer’s savory crêpe, smoked salmon with roasted leeks and crème fraîche, has always been one of his old standbys. He commented that the combination of flavors from the salmon, crêpe, and leeks were very good, but overall the crêpe was too dry; additional sauce would have made for a more complete and satisfying package. The Astronomer’s sweet crepe with raspberries, chocolate sauce, and vanilla ice cream was everything he hoped it would be. The chocolate and berries went together beautifully and the cool ice cream topped off the entire creation perfectly.

Philadelphia’s vibrant restaurant scene is chalk full of good eateries, but I find myself returning to Beau Monde time after time for their immense value, unique offerings, and gorgeous space.

The Astronomer, P/PV

Restaurant Review

11 Jul 2007

Rita’s Water Ice – Philadelphia

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June 20 and 25, 2007
Cuisine: Philadelphian, Dessert

1511 Spruce Street
Philadelphia, PA

Phone: 215-545-7661
Website: http://www.ritasice.com/

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Gelati, Toppers

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Back in the day when I was a frosh on the Swarthmore Cross Country team, my captains introduced me to a fantastic tradition called a Rita’s Run. These runs typically occurred twice a year; once during pre-season and again on the first day of spring. The run began at the college, went through Wallingford, and ended at the Rita’s located in Media. Upon arriving at Rita’s, we removed our sweaty money from our shoes, and ordered the frozen delight that moved us most. I usually ordered either a water ice or a Gelati. Our run back to school was always a little painful as the treats sloshed around in our tummies, but trust me, it was totally worth it.

These days the closest Rita’s is a short walk from my apartment, which makes for a lovelier stroll than run. During my final days in the city, I hit up Rita’s as often as possible because sadly, water ice has not yet spread from sea to shining sea.

While Rita’s signature water ice is refreshing, my all-time favorite offering is their Gelati. A Gelati is composed of layers of old-fashioned frozen custard and water ice and served in a cup. The Astronomer and I have tried a variety of custard and water ice combinations throughout the years, but our most beloved mishmash is vanilla custard with lemon water ice. The creamy vanilla custard coupled with the tart lemon water ice makes for a wonderful summer dessert or afternoon snack. I love the bits of lemon zest within the water ice.

On a recent visit to Rita’s, I was in the mood for something other than Gelati and ordered a Toppers. A Toppers is chocolate or vanilla custard doused with either hot fudge or caramel. I ordered a vanilla custard with caramel topping. The caramel was lip smacking-ly delightful and oh so gooey. The topper definitely satisfied my sweet tooth, but was not cool like a Gelati is.