Jul 2007

Szechuan Hunan – Philadelphia

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June 22, 2007
Cuisine: Chinese

274 S 20th St, Philadelphia 19103
Btwn Rittenhouse Sq & Spruce St

Phone: 215-546-8080
Website: none

Wonton Chips with Duck Sauce (complimentary)

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Szechuan Tofu ($6.95)

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Bird’s Nest ($11.95)

When I recently discovered that no less than three of my friends in the Philadelphia area have birthdays during the same week as mine, plans for a joint celebration began to materialize. It was of course essential that the gathering involve amazing food, so I began researching possible destinations. I wanted to try somewhere new, preferably a reasonably priced BYOB. After much thought, I settled on a restaurant that The Gastronomer and I had long been yearning to try: Mama Palma’s Gourmet Pizza. We had heard nothing but good things about the food, although I did read some rather alarming comments in customer reviews concerning the service. “No matter,” I thought, “We’re a carefree and considerate group, and besides, we’ll probably be drunk. It won’t matter if the waitress is a little grouchy.” How wrong I was.

Mama Palma’s does not take reservations, so The Gastronomer stopped by early in the evening to sign us up for a table at 7:30. When the hour came, several members of our party were late to arrive, and we were informed that only full groups could be seated. Fair enough. It’s a small restaurant—it makes sense that they wouldn’t want to waste space by seating incomplete parties. Finally everyone arrived. The Gastronomer went inside and informed the hosts that our party would include 9 people, rather than 8 as we originally had expected. They grudgingly marked off the 8 on the list and wrote a 9. It became clear that reserving a table early in the evening had been futile, as they were not going to actually place us in line for a table until we were all present. We asked for an expected wait time and were told 15 minutes.

Two or three times during the next hour one of us cheerfully asked how the prospects were looking for being seated. We were alternately ignored or greeted with a tone of acute annoyance. Some in their hunger wondered whether we should just screw it and head over to the Irish Pub, but in general our spirits remained high. We could tell that there was one particular table that they wanted to seat our party at, and it looked like the current occupants would be gone before long.

Finally, at almost 9:00 we were called inside. The table had been set with 8 chairs. “Oh, remember, we have 9… it’s okay, we’ll just pull up a chair.” At this point the manager stormed out of the kitchen and basically screamed at us: “You can’t pull up a chair. I won’t put up with this any more! Either one of you leaves, or you don’t eat here!” We briefly protested: “Come on, be reasonable… there’s plenty of room… we’ve been waiting so long…”, but the response was absolutely not. He seemed to genuinely think that we would send a friend home so that the rest of us could stay and enjoy the pizza. I offered to share a seat with The Gastronomer, but to no avail. We headed for the door. In the shuffle The Gastronomer left her purse hanging on a chair, and I had to awkwardly squeeze by the raging manager to get around to the far side of the table and retrieve it. I felt a legitimate fear that he might deck me with a right cross. Some of the younger employees looked uncomfortable and apologetic but obviously feared for their jobs if they should speak up.

As frequent readers of the site will have noticed, I generally come away with good impressions of most every place that I eat at, but I am truly appalled by Mama Palma’s. This is the first time I can remember having walked out of a restaurant without even being seated because the service was so bad. Seriously, don’t go eat there. Tell your friends not to eat there. The pizza is probably terrific, but it is absolutely not worth it. There are too many restaurants in Philly that offer delicious food AND great hospitality for them to be able to get away with that crap. Several members of our party thought up creative means for revenge, but we’re a classy bunch, so it’s unlikely any will be carried out.

When we had finished being rudely booted from our chosen birthday dinner destination, we were left with a dilemma. It was doubtful that any of the tasty BYOBs in the vicinity would be able to seat such a large party on a Friday night with no advanced notice, but we had little choice but to wander the streets in search of a restaurant willing to take us in. It was looking increasingly likely that we would end up celebrating at the Fox and Hound. As we passed Rittenhouse Square, someone said off-handedly, “Maybe we should just get Chinese food.” As we have already established, I LOVE Chinese food (see Susanna Foo), so of course the answer was a resounding yes. We ducked into a restaurant called Szechwan Hunan. It was practically empty, and they quickly moved several tables around so that we could all sit together. What fantastic service! I was blown away. They also provided menus, a bottle opener, glasses for both wine and water, and unlimited refills of their delicious wonton chips with duck sauce. It was almost as if they were genuinely grateful for our patronage.

As everyone began to order, the mood lightened noticeably. We were finally going to get to eat. I’m always torn when I go to Chinese restaurants between ordering one of my proven favorites (mostly chicken with sweet sauces: sesame, orange, lemon, etc.) and trying something new. This time I was feeling adventuresome, so I went with a dish called the Bird’s Nest. The “nest” turned out to be made of pan-fried noodles and contained chicken, peppers, and other vegetables. Strangely, the whole thing rested upon a bed of iceberg lettuce. The dish was satisfying, but not as flavorful as some of the better Chinese items I’ve had, and the crispy noodles were rather awkward to eat. In the end, I’d probably be happier sticking to my old standbys. To its credit, the Bird’s Nest was enormous, and I found the leftovers much easier to eat after the noodles softened up overnight.

The Gastronomer ordered a tofu dish with a variety of vegetables in a savory Szechwan sauce, which she found quite enjoyable. It was mildly spicy and came in a generous portion size. Like the Bird’s Nest, the dish tasted better the following day after the tofu softened.

The food at Szchewan Hunan is high quality, but falls short of truly outstanding. In any case, they managed to save the evening for us, and for that I am extremely grateful. If I have another opportunity to order Chinese food before leaving Philadelphia, I will certainly consider them.

Jul 2007

Di Bruno Brothers – Philadelphia

June 21, 2007
Cuisine: Italian, Delis

1730 Chestnut St, Philadelphia 19103
Btwn S 17th St & S 18th St

Phone: 215-665-9220
Website: www.dibruno.com

Prosciutto Fig Pie ($8)

DiBruno Brothers is the perfect marriage between fashion and function. Not only is the store gorgeously laid-out, but it also sells some of the best artisanal products in town—including foie gras. The shop’s first floor is dedicated to specialty foods, baked goods, fresh fruits and vegetables, pastas, and cheeses. The second floor is a casual café offering a variety of gourmet sandwiches, prepared foods, and pizzas. DiBruno Brothers has been dubbed the Dean and Deluca of Philadelphia and I think that’s an accurate comparison.

While I have always loved browsing DiBruno’s aisles and tasting their many delicious samples, I didn’t try the café until recently with Wes. The Upstairs space is painted a vibrant yellow and blasts hits from the 90’s, which I really liked but made conversation difficult. Even in the midst of the lunch hour rush, Wes and I were able to locate a suitable table with ease.

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Wes picked up a sandwich from the deli counter, while I headed to the pizza section. The pie that caught my eye was the Prosciutto Fig. After placing my order, the pizza was briefly reheated in the oven, and brought to my table. A half order consisted of four generous slices, which was more than enough to satisfy my hearty appetite. In fact, I had to pack up half to-go.

The Prosciutto Fig Pie was really outstanding! The crust was slightly sweet and the ideal thickness. The cheese, a mix of ricotta and mozzarella, hit the all the right notes and didn’t over power the other ingredients. The thinly sliced prosciutto crisped up nicely in the oven, while the delicate figs caramelized beautifully. The entire pizza was drizzled with thick balsamic vinegar and sprinkled with fresh rosemary, which took an already delectable pie to a whole new level. The Prosciutto Fig Pie seriously blew my mind! If I were still in Philly, I’d definitely be eating one right now…

Di Bruno Brothers on Urbanspoon

Jul 2007

Susanna Foo Chinese Cuisine – Philadelphia

June 20, 2007
Cuisine: Chinese, Pan-Asian & Pacific Rim

1512 Walnut St, Philadelphia 19102
Btwn S Sydenham St & S 15th St

Phone: 215-545-2666
Website: www.susannafoo.com

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Mongolian Lamb Pillows – Stuffed with Tarragon, Cumin & Leeks, Chinese Eggplant with Ancho Chili Sauce ($8)

Kung Pao Tofu with Scallions, Jalapeño Peppers & Red Onion ($8)

Tea-Smoked Peking Duck Breast – Fuji Apple Chutney, Braised Fingerling Potatoes, and Sautéed Chinese Vegetables ($29)

Classic Mu-shu Pork with Pressed Bean Curd, Brandy Hoisin Sauce, Steamed Pancakes, and Scallions ($18)

Chocolate Dipped Fortune Cookies (complimentary)

The Astronomer loves Chinese food with all of his heart. He would eat Sesame Chicken and dumplings everyday given the chance. Sometimes I wonder if he would be better off dating a Chinese girl with a wok. Or better yet, a Chinese girl whose parents owned a restaurant. Now, that would be a heavenly match…

The Astronomer requested we celebrate his 23rd birthday at Susanna Foo because word on the street is that she serves up some mean Cantonese and Shanghai cooking. I was a bit hesitant about The Astronomer’s choice because I have two general rules about dining at ethnic restaurants: Firstly, the price range should be inexpensive to moderate because great ethnic eats can always be found on the cheap. Secondly, the majority of the restaurant’s patrons should be of the ethnic identity of the cuisine because it is a sure sign the food is authentic and not watered down for the masses. Needless to say, Susanna Foo is pricey and serves a non-Chinese clientele. While I would have personally passed on dining there, it was The Astronomer’s birthday, so I put aside my preferences for the evening.

We arrived on time for a 7 o’clock reservation and were seated right away at a table large enough for four. The noise level inside the elegantly decorated restaurant was unexpectedly robust, mostly due to happy hour revelers at the bar. I dined at Susanna Foo seven years ago with my mother and brother and sat in the upstairs dining room, which was much quieter. However, on this evening the space appeared to be closed. The crowd in the main dining room seemed to consist mainly of business people and a few couples.

The Astronomer began his birthday feast with an order of Mongolian Lamb Pillows stuffed with tarragon, cumin and leeks and served with Chinese eggplant in an Ancho chili sauce. The pillows were tender, but lacked the strong lamb flavor we were hoping for. The pillows tasted like good-quality meat in wonton wrappers and not the least bit Mongolian (whatever that means). The eggplant was slightly undercooked, but still appealing. The Ancho chili sauce was sadly tame. I’d take five dumplings for a dollar from Dumpling House any day over these.

For my appetizer, I ordered the Kung Pao Tofu, which was listed on the “sides” section of the menu. For a side dish, the tofu’s portion was huge and came with two servings of white rice. I was really impressed by this dish. The Kung Pao sauce was perfectly spicy and not too peanut-y, the tofu was lightly browned and firm, and the variety of vegetables were impressive. Although we probably shouldn’t have eaten the entire plate, it was so good we couldn’t help ourselves.

For The Astronomer’s main course, he had the Tea-Smoked Peking Duck Breast served with Fuji apple chutney, braised fingerling potatoes, and sautéed Chinese vegetables. The Astronomer thought that the duck breast was well-seasoned and flavorful, but not as succulent and juicy as he wished. The sides were decent, but definitely nothing spectacular. The apple chutney was not very chutney-like and resembled more of a thick and colorless puree. The Astronomer detested the Chinese vegetables underneath the duck due to its bitterness, but liked the fresh apple slaw atop the duck.

For my entrée, I ordered the Classic Mu-shu Pork served with a Brandy Hoisin sauce and steamed pancakes. Mu-shu pork is one of my all-time favorite Chinese treats for its unique flavor combinations and fun assembly process. Susanna’s high-end interpretation of Mu-shu was fantastic. The meat mixture was an interesting blend of pork, bean curd, mushrooms, red peppers, and scallions. The Brandy’s essence came through nicely in the hoisin sauce. The pancakes were abnormally thick, resembled miniature tortillas, and held the contents well. All three components gelled together perfectly for a delectable wrap. As per usual with Mu-shu, there were too few pancakes for the heaping portion of pork. Susanna’s Mu-shu was better than average, but for $18, it really ought to be.

We concluded our celebration with some chocolate dipped fortune cookies.

I really enjoyed all of the dishes I sampled this evening, but at the end of the meal, I still believe that my personal policies regarding dining at ethnic restaurants hold true.

Susanna Foo on Urbanspoon