I joined Madeleine Brand, the host of KCRW’s program Press Play, to chat about where to get the best Vietnamese food in the city of El Monte, the littler Saigon in Los Angeles County. Listen here. And enjoy!
I’ve got a thing for seafood shacks: charming neighborhood spots, like The Walrus and the Carpenter in Seattle, The Ordinary in Charleston, and Fishing with Dynamite in Manhattan Beach, serving the freshest catch in stylish nautical-inspired environs.
Lost at Sea, by Chef Tim Carey and Wine Director Santos Uy, landed in Old Pasadena late last summer, but it wasn’t until a few weeks ago that The Astronomer and I finally visited our local seafood “shack” for dinner.
A Saturday night out on the town without our little lady in tow called for two flutes of J.P. Chenet Brut Blanc de Blancs ($10) to start.
For those who believe that any food can be improved upon by serving it between sliced bread, I present to you the torta de chilaquiles.
Served on the corner of Alfonso Reyes and Tamaulipas in Condesa (open every day from 8 AM till noon), the torta de chilaquiles begins with a crusty French roll with most of its innards removed. A thin layer of refried black beans followed by a slab of breaded chicken milanesa and a scoop each of red and green chilaquiles make up the bulk of the filling. The final flourishes, cojita cheese and a heavy squirt of crema, dial the already over-the-top sandwich to an 11. Actually, make that a 12.
The torta de chilaquiles was a beast of a creation, a strangely charming and sloppy mouthful of carbs, fat, and soulful satisfaction. While the heft of the sandwich was certainly intimidating, The Astronomer and I were able to finish it together. We saluted the local set who polished off a whole torta alone. Damn.







