Every afternoon between the hours of three and seven o’clock, the residents of Madrid take a break from the grind, descend upon cafes and pastry shops, and indulge in a sweet, midday pick-me-up. Of all the fabulous Spanish customs that The Astronomer and I adopted during our stay (e.g. midnight dinners, wine-filled meals, and post-lunch naps), the merienda is the one I miss the most.
On our first afternoon in the capital city, The Astronomer and I sought out hot chocolate and churros at Madrid’s most well-known chocolatería—San Ginés. Established in 1894, San Ginés is located in a small passageway, tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the Puerta del Sol. In spite of its less than prominent location, a mixed crowd of locals and tourists find their way here every hour of the day. In fact, the shop is open daily from 9 AM to 6 AM. I think it’s the intoxicating blend of hot oil, fried dough, and melted chocolate that lures everyone in.
The Astronomer and I each ordered a mug of the chocolaty stuff, along with a plate of churros to share. We grabbed a table outside and within fifteen minutes, our loot arrived. The bittersweet brew was just as I had hoped—dark, warm, thick, and dreamy to sip and dip.
The crisp and hot churros provided the perfect vehicle for delivering more richness down our gullets. We both polished off our mugs with ease. The merienda did its job beautifully—The Astronomer and I coasted to dinner time full of energy and without a single hunger pang.
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Chocolatería San Ginés
Pasadizo de San Ginés, 11
28013 Madrid, España
Phone: 913 656 546
I got waaay too excited when I saw this post. I screamed to my dad, “I WENT HEREEEE!” I miss the chocolaté. It was like molten pudding. Delicious, bittersweet molten pudding.
This would be a most excellent combo to wake up to after a siesta… uhm… I *hope* you guys were taking *sietas* while over there, after all it was your *honeymoon*
Mmm I love churros y chocolate. I’ve been looking for this version (thin, no sugar) since having it at a tapas place in Boston. Find it for me!
In LA, I mean. =)
This may be the afternoon pick-me-up in Madrid but I just woke up in San Diego and I think I could go for this right now. Have you tried Churros El Tigre in SD?
Just pretty. How does it look so classy when really, it’s just a big cuppa molten chocolate and some doughnuts?
Liz – I have not! Thanks for letting me know about the place. You never know when the mood for churros and chocolate will hit!
Can we please please please bring the merienda to LA? Or at the very least, a chocolate or sweets-based outing into our summer schedule?
Diana – Let’s go to FAMOUS CUPCAKES!! You know you wanna! Merienda—L.A. style!
OMG!!! Memories from three years ago just came flooding back. I can’t wait to return to Madrid. It’s a beautiful post.
Mmm I could go for some of this right now with all the June gloom outside!
Hi Gastronomer,
Nice! 🙂 Looks absolutely delicious. I’d miss Churros and Chocolate, too if I had something as good as what’s in your photos. 🙂
When I went to Spain (Madrid) for the first time this April, this was my first meal there! LOVED it. Thanks for bringing back memories.
how could you bring yourself to leave? i’d be researching spain’s immigration laws right about now.
Thanks for the beautiful post. It brings back memories. This place is the perfect spot to end a late night in Madrid.
wow, a whole plate of churros and that hot chocolate looks incredibly decadent…
Hi there!
I am a frequent San-Ginés-goer and, in my opinion, there is nothing better after a long night of Madrid nightlife than a big stack of churros and chocolate.
I love San Ginés because of it’s history and it’s so beautiful but I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for other churros places in Madrid? All the Madrileños I talk to say that there are loads of better places, but I never seem to happen upon any! I’d very much appreciate any suggestions!
Super blog by the way, great work!
All the best,
Chloé