Let me tell you about the torrija ($28), or Spanish French toast, served at Atelier Manna in Encinitas, California.

Chef Andrew Bachelier’s standout dish starts with an entire third of a sourdough loaf that’s locally sourced from Prager Brothers. It’s steamed until pliable, saturated with sweetened custard, soaked overnight, and baked to order. The result is a study in complementary contrasts: a sturdy, caramelized crust gives way to tender insides sopping just-so. 

While the sourdough base remains constant, its accoutrements change with the seasons. In mid-May, fresh strawberries, rhubarb, shortcake granola, and a long pepper chantilly were beautifully arranged atop. A classic case of almost being too pretty to eat. Almost.

Swoon-worthy cookbook collection.

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Atelier Manna was featured in my travel report for LAist: “San Diego’s North County is Southern California’s new culinary powerhouse”

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More North County deliciousness on Gastronomy:

• {plate-by-plate} 24 Suns – San Diego
• {Plate-by-Plate} Lilo – Carlsbad
• {plate-by-plate} Valle – San Diego