Named after an old Japanese province on the island of Shikoku with the same boundaries as modern Kagawa Prefecture, Sanuki No Sato is famous for its udon, chubby wheat-based noodles served hot or cold.
The 20-year-old dining room feels as sturdy as ever, while service is swiftly executed by a team of kimono-donning waitresses.
The menu here features numerous small plates and sushi, but we zeroed in on Chef Moriaki Miyahira’s spectacularly slurp-worthy udon. To truly appreciate the noodles’ texture and nuances, I insisted on a bowl of the cold preparation. As soul-warming and comforting as noodle soups can be, hot broth tends to diminish udon’s impressive bite.
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