Archive for the 'Middle Eastern' Category

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Arde’s Bistro – Los Angeles (Burbank)

Published by Gastronomer on January 20, 2009 in Burbank, Greek, Los Angeles, Middle Eastern and Restaurant Review. 3 Comments

In this 498.3 square mile metropolis with notoriously bad traffic, meeting a friend for a meal can mean an hour-long commute. When my Valley-dwelling friend Sam and I wanted to meet up for lunch, it made sense to dine somewhere in the middle to save a little time and gas. What city is halfway in between Pasadena and Sherman Oaks? Why Burbank, of course.

Eating out in an area that neither party is familiar with can be a bit of a crapshoot. To avoid a dining disaster, I called upon my sometimes trusty, but oftentimes flaky friend Yelp. Since Arde’s Bistro was the number one rated restaurant in Burbank, I figured it would be a good enough spot to hit up.

Mother and daughter duo Arde and Nina opened up Arde’s Bistro in 2000. The restaurant is smallish in size and laid back in attitude. The menu reflects Arde’s previous training as a Greek, Armenian and Lebanese cook, but with a couple of California-inspired additions like wraps and salads thrown in.

We started off our late lunch with an Appetite Teaser Platter ($10.95), which included hummus, baba ghanouge, stuffed grape leaves, a feta turnover, falafel, a small Greek salad and a side of Tahini sauce. Sam’s favorite of the bunch was the flaky and salty feta turnover. I was especially mad about the pleasantly tart stuffed grape leaves, with the smoky baba ghanouge coming in a close second. The falafel were decent, but paled in comparison to the one’s Mama made back in Philly. I like my falafel spicy and rustic.

The generous Appetite Teaser Platter was served with warm pita and lavash—a soft, thin flatbread. Both were excellent vehicles for scooping up the hummus and baba ghanouge.

With The Astronomer playing third wheel, we weren’t afraid to order up a storm. For one of our entrees, we went with the lamb kebab plate ($8.95), which came with a small Greek Salad, hummus and bulgar pilaf. Whereas I thought the charbroiled pieces of lamb were dry and over-cooked, The Astronomer thought they were pretty good considering the price and genre. Sam, a self-proclaimed non-foodie, thought the lamb was fine and would’ve been just as happy eating at the Boston Market across the street.

For our second entree, we ordered the Gyro Plate ($7.95), which was served with rice, a small Greek Salad, hummus and Jajik (yogurt cucumber sauce). The gyro meat, which was a combination of charbroiled lamb and beef, was under-seasoned and lacking in the oomph department. I have yet to find a gyro that can match J.K.’s down in San Diego.

As we paid our bill, we were treated to complimentary squares of sticky and sweet baklava. Now, these are worth coming back for.

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Arde’s Bistro
4315 W. Riverside Drive
Burbank, CA 91505
Phone: 818-729-8463

The Tapasfication of Saigon

Published by Gastronomer on July 3, 2008 in Asian Fusion, Cuban, Mexican, Middle Eastern, Restaurant Review, Saigon, Small Plates and Spanish. 7 Comments

Communal nibbling is a tradition in many cuisines. Spaniards have their tapas, the Cantonese consume their dim sum, Greeks celebrate their mezze and the Japanese feast on sakana at izakaya bars. Cathy Danh checks out the big business of small plates in HCM City.

It used to be that going out for a meal meant ordering appetizers to start, which were then followed by entrees (usually a slab of protein paired with a carbohydrate and starch) and if there was any room left, dessert proceeded. Taking a cue from the global small plates trend, a number of popular establishments in town are deconstructing their menus. Appetizers, entrees and desserts are still present in some form, but the addition of small plates (or tapas as they are more popularly referred to) is notable.

HCM City’s chefs are adding an unexpected twist to this trend by rethinking and transforming cuisines not traditionally served in this fashion. Mexican, Cuban and Vietnamese foods are being given a modern makeover and becoming major players in the emerging small plates scene. Light bites, big groups and stiff drinks are the name of the game, and the city is packed with dining options that fit the bill.

Qing
31 Dong Du, District 1
Qing has the honour of being the city’s first small plates joint. “When I looked at what was around Dong Du, there was already a Vietnamese restaurant and Al Frescos,” says Tony Fox of Qing. “We wanted to do something different and decided on tapas with a twist—Asian tapas.” Qing opened its doors in December of 2004 and has been doing brisk business ever since. Even though the menu includes traditional entrees and appetizers, “70% of our customers order wine and tapas,” says Fox. “It’s all about small bites and big flavours.” The Korean-spiced salmon with kimchi blinis and wasabi cream cheese (68,000 VND) are a crowd favourite. The delicate pieces of diced fish are placed atop a crispy pancake smeared with spicy cream cheese. The prawn wontons with ginger and spring onion dressing (75,000 VND) are also stellar. Each dumpling is daintily served on a porcelain spoon, and the combination of flavours are reminiscent of traditional dim sum.

La Habana
6 Cao Ba Quat, District 1
With over 50 delectable Spanish and Cuban-inspired tapas on the menu, live music and dancing nearly every night of the week and cocktails sold by the pitcher, La Habana is guaranteed to be a great night out. “Tapas and paellas are our signature specialties,” says Jane Speeger of La Habana. The Cuban meatballs (60,000 VND) in tomato sauce are hearty, rustic and satisfying, especially atop toasted slices of bread. The chilli garlic prawns (60,000 VND) garnished with a fresh spring mix are juicy, succulent and will leave you wanting more. The croquetas filled with mushroom, cheese and ham are served with a chilli pineapple sauce (60,000) to create an unstoppable combination of flavours. Every Monday at La Habana is a Tapas Fiesta where diners have a choice of three tapas for 150,000 VND. Add 30,000 VND for a glass of house wine.

Xu Café Bar
71-75 Hai Ba Trung, District 1
The Xu restaurant empire is taking a stab at small plates at the café bar on the first floor of their flagship establishment. A varied selection of modern “Vietnamese tapas” share menu space with an extensive wine and cocktails list. According to Elizabeth Fisher of Xu, the concept for the café bar was to keep food light and informal. “The menu provides something to snack on while drinking,” says Fisher. “If people want a full dining experience, then they can go upstairs to Xu Restaurant.” One of the best-selling tapas is the Vietnamese Pizza (60,000 VND). The base of this fusion dish is a cross between a Vietnamese crepe and a tostada shell. Squares of rare tuna and a smattering of cilantro are piled on top, and a chilli and lime dressing provides the finishing touch. “We’re taking traditional Vietnamese herbs and spices and giving it new style with our tapas menu,” says Fisher. A fine example of this blending is the Rau Ram Arancine (60,000 VND). The fried risotto balls combine the heartiness of Italian risotto with Vietnamese coriander. With the Vietnamese tapas menu receiving rave reviews from customers, the folks at Xu are now working to bring late night acts to the venue. “We want people to eat, drink and be entertained,” says Fisher.

Cantina Central
51 Ton That Thiep, District 1
For the past year, Cantina Central has been satisfying HCM City residents’ cravings for Mexican street food through its selection of small plates. While burritos and tacos dominate the menu, the short and sweet anojitos/tapas section is a fun option when noshing with friends. Start with the ceviche—tender cubes of fish marinated in lime, chilli, cilantro and onions topped with jalapenos (60,000 VND). The well-presented dish is a refreshing albeit tart palate cleanser. The selection of five mini tacos (steak, chicken, pork, fish, vegetarian – 55,000 VND) is just the thing for those who can’t decide what to order. The pork and vegetarian versions shine the brightest. The grilled steak torta with avocado and tomatoes (60,000 VND) is interpreted by the kitchen as a Mexican hamburger, and although it’s not authentic, it’s executed well enough.

Pacharan
97 Hai Ba Trung, District 1
Opened in September 2006, Pacharan is the only restaurant in HCM City specializing in authentic Spanish tapas. Stepping into the three-story restaurant, one instantly gets the sense that Chef Fernando Olivares knows what he’s doing. Bulky legs of Serrano ham hang above the bar, while the drinks menu is heftier than the bill of fare. The menu is divided by protein and is complete with all the flavours and textures of the Mediterranean. “We intend for diners to share each portion with our tapas menu,” says Nguyen Thanh of Pacharan. “These finger foods are best paired with white and red wine or sangria.” Sangria is served by the jug (215,000 VND) or glass (45,000 VND) alongside an ample array of red, white, rose and sparkling wines. The Montaditos de Jamon Serrano (75,000 VND)—toasted rounds of bread are drizzled with olive oil and topped with minced garlic, fresh tomatoes and Serrano ham—pair well with any of the libations. The cured meat is sliced paper-thin and has just the right amount of saltiness to balance the tomato’s tartness. The Spanish omelette (65,000 VND), which is served alongside fruity purees, is also deftly prepared. The tender Pincho Moruno pork skewers (65,000 VND) are marinated in savoury Moorish spices and grilled to perfection.

Warda
71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, District 1
The term mezze comes from the Persian maze, which means taste or snack. Warda, HCM City’s premier middle-eastern eatery, serves up hot and cold mezze for lunch, supper and late night. There is little more pleasurable than lounging with a group of friends upon plush pillows, passing around the hookah and indulging in a smattering of mezze. The Egyptian havashi (55,000 VND), grilled pita bread topped with sautéed spiced minced lamb, is a savoury dream. The lamb’s pure flavours stand out from the soft pita and fragrant spices. The sambousek (50,000 VND), oven-baked filo pastries filled with creamy goat cheese and spinach, are a lovely vegetarian option. The bite-sized turnovers are rich, crisp and airy. Another great meat-free option is the baba ghanoush (48,000 VND); roasted eggplant dip drizzled with olive oil and served with pita chips and warm flat bread. The small plates served at Warda are anything but; so do invite a big group to share in all the deliciousness.

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Published in AsiaLIFE Magazine July 2008

Warda – Ho Chi Minh City

Published by Gastronomer on June 20, 2008 in Middle Eastern, Moroccan, Restaurant Review and Saigon. 1 Comment

May 24, 2008
Cuisine: Middle Eastern, Moroccan

71/7 Mac Thi Buoi Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 8233822
Website: none

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Pita chips, warm flat bread, sesame crackers

Cold Mezza Platter – clockwise from top left – tabouleh, hummus, mutabal (slow roasted baby eggplant with tahini, olive oil and spices), baba ghanouj (110,000 VND)

Lamb and Prunes Tajine – braised marinated lamb cubes with prunes braised in a clay pot and laced with infused chili oil (158,000 VND)

Goose Pastilla – phyllo pastry filled with roast goose, almonds, raisins and oranges (135,000 VND)

Hot Chocolate and Fig Pudding with Cardamom (55,000 VND)

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Even though my birthday was months ago, I’m still cashing in on my presents from The Astronomer. Knowing my penchant for good eats, my gift was a series of five fancy dinners. Warda was stop number three on our special dinners tour.

Warda has one of the coolest dining rooms in the city. The walls of the dimly lit space are painted with sweet wide blue stripes. And in true Moroccan fashion, there are tons of pillows for lounging upon while eating or smoking the hookah. There was no hookah for us tonight, but we did indulge in some fine food, including the most amazing chocolate dessert. But before we get to that, let’s start with appetizers.

We shared the cold mezza platter that included a variety of dips and a lovely selection of dipping utensils. The baba ghanouj with mint, caramelized onions and homemade yogurt was our favorite. The smoky flavor of the roasted eggplant was so very delicious that it managed to convert The Astronomer, a known eggplant hater. My favorite dipping device were the thin slices of warm flat bread even though they were kind of flimsy. The portions at Warda are monstrous by Vietnam standards. We could have left completely sated after the first course. I guess we’ll just have to invite some friends to join us next time!

For our mains, we shared the lamb and prunes tajine and the roast goose pastilla. The Astronomer ate the majority of the lamb tajine because I was pretty full and preferred to work on the pastilla with the little space I had left. The tajine, which was served with a side of fluffy couscous, was more The Astronomer’s cup of tea than mine. The overall flavor was decent, but the lack of presentation was a turn-off. A little parsley atop the lamb would have gone a long way.

The pastilla wasn’t doused in as much powdered sugar and cinnamon as we would have liked, but was still quite delicious. The roast goose’s distinctive taste brought us back to Hong Kong, and the almonds and raisins were fabulous touches. The pastilla was served with a fruity sauce (my guess is quince) that tied the nutty, meaty and fruity elements of the dish together.

In my world, there’s always room for dessert. Since The Astronomer was bursting at the seams, I chose the “Hot Chocolate and Fig Pudding.” With a name like that, I wasn’t sure what to expect. What arrived was a molten chocolate cake of sorts. The oozing warm chocolate innards were figged-out to the max. I love figs, and figs with chocolate is even better! This could be Saigon’s best chocolate dessert – full report to come.

Döner Kebab – Bánh Mì Gà Nướng

Published by Gastronomer on June 10, 2008 in Banh Mi, Middle Eastern, Restaurant Review, Saigon and Vietnamese. 13 Comments

Meet Van Do Luong. After living and and working in Berlin for ten years, he returned to Saigon and opened a Döner Kebab shop in District 3 (18 Nguyen Thuong Hien).

Döner kebab (Turkish döner kebap, literally “turning roast”), is a Turkish dish made of meat cooked on a vertical spit and sliced off to order. The meat may be lamb, mutton, beef, goat, or chicken. Alternative names include kebap, donair, döner, doner or donner. Döner Kebab is the origin of other similar Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes such as shawarma and gyros. A version developed to suit German tastes by Turkish immigrants in Berlin has become one of Germany’s most popular fast food dishes, and Turkish emigrants export German döners back into their home country.

The Astronomer, Nina, The Boyfriend and I are big fans of Luong’s Döner Kebab. According to Luong, the Döner Kebabs are made with chicken because the Vietnamese don’t dig lamb, plus it’s much pricier than the white meat. A Döner Kebab costs 14,000 VND and comes stuffed with shredded lettuce and red cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes and slices of chicken warm off the spit. A zesty garlic taziki sauce keeps the Döner Kebab nice and moist. The bread ain’t nothing like banh mi. It’s hearty, toasted and reminds me of an Italian variety from Philly. According to German expats, Luong’s Döner Kebabs are the real deal. I find it endlessly cool that I can get authentic Döner Kebab made by a Vietnamese guy in Saigon. Now, this is Asian fusion.

Mama's Vegetarian – Philadelphia

Published by Gastronomer on March 27, 2007 in Middle Eastern, Philadelphia, Restaurant Review and Vegetarian. 2 Comments

March 21, 2007
Cuisine: Vegetarian, Middle Eastern, Kosher

18 S 20th St, Philadelphia 19103
Btwn Ludlow St & Ranstead St

Phone: 215-751-0477
Website: www.mamasvegetarian.com

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Mama’s Sandwich – Falafel served with Hummus and Vegetables ($5)

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Mama’s Vegetarian is a small Kosher restaurant located half a block from my office building. I’ve walked by this eatery at least twice a day for the past two years and finally sampled their delights last week for lunch. Although Mama’s menu is pretty limited, their offerings are masterfully executed.

Joined by my colleague Ricky, we both ordered Mama’s Sandwich. I had the large size, while Ricky had the small ($3.50). The difference between the large and small sandwich is two Falafel and half a pita. Both of us opted to have our sandwiches made with whole wheat pita with all the fixings minus the spicy sauce. Our pita pockets were filled to the brim with cabbage, tomatoes, hummus, cucumber, Tahini sauce, and of course, Falafel.

The sandwich was delicious! Each bite was filled with fresh vegetables, creamy hummus, and fragrant Tahini. The Falafel was especially memorable. It’s exterior was crisp and interior was warm and savory. I liked how the freshly fried Falafel contrasted with the cold sauces and vegetables. Ricky had never tried Falafel before and enjoyed his sandwich immensely. In fact, he purchased another one to go.

I wish I had tried Mama’s sooner.