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Phở Chay - Vegetarian Phở

My mom prepares this vegetarian version of pho on auspicious days according to the Lunar Calendar when all Buddhists refrain from eating meat. The broth is fragrant with star anise and five spice, while the “meat” is comprised of mushrooms and wheat gluten.

For noodles

  • 1 package of fresh or dried banh pho (flat rice noodles). Prepare according to directions on package. Make sure to rinse noodles well under cold running water after boiling.

For broth

  • 1 leek (leaves only)
  • 1 yellow onion
  • 1 ginger
  • 5 star anise
  • 14 oz. vegetable broth
  • Water
  • Soy sauce (Golden Mountain Seasoning Sauce)
  • Sugar

For “meat”

  • Vegetable oil
  • 1 leek (stem only)
  • 1 ten oz. can of mock meat/fried wheat gluten (mock duck, chicken, abalone, etc.)
  • 8 oz. sliced mushrooms (any variety)
  • Soy sauce (Golden Mountain Seasoning Sauce)
  • Mushroom seasoning
  • Black pepper

Make soup

For the soup, heat vegetable broth and 10-12 cups of water in a medium-sized soup pot, leaving enough room for the ginger, onion and leek leaves.

Remove the outer layer of the onion and add it whole to the broth. Leaving the skin of the ginger intact, chop off the nubs and bruise using a mortar and pestle. Add to broth. Separate the leek leaves from the stems and add them to the broth along with five star anise “fruits.” Let the soup boil on high heat for 45 minutes to an hour, or until the onion and ginger have softened.

Once the onion and ginger have softened, discard the leek leaves. Add ¾ tablespoon of Chinese five spice to the broth and season with soy sauce and sugar to taste. Continue to cook on medium heat for an additional 15 minutes.

Make “meat” mixture

While the soup is boiling, thinly slice the leek stems and chop the mushrooms and mock meat into bite-sized pieces. Deep-fried tofu can be used in place of mock meat if desired.

Saute the leeks with vegetable oil in a medium-sized pan until golden. Add the mushrooms and “meat” to the leek and oil mixture along with half of the canned mock meat “juice.” Season to taste with soy sauce, mushroom seasoning and black pepper. Tip: My mom says to make the “meat” mixture slightly salty because the broth will balance out the excess saltiness.

Assemble and garnish

Grab a bowl and fill it with noodles and the “meat” mixture. Pour some hot broth on top. To garnish, add fresh or steamed bean sprouts, onions, cilantro, lime juice, herbs (basil, saw tooth herb, etc.), hoisin sauce and chili sauce.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Flossy Flossy

I’ve been eating chà bông ever since I was a kid. My grandma used to sprinkle it atop hot plain porridge and serve it for breakfast. For some bizarre reason, chà bông is known as “pork floss” in English. I loathe the term, but must admit that it is catchy and intriguing, especially for the uninitiated.

Here’s a little back story on the mysterious meat bi-product:

Rousong, also called meat floss, pork floss, or pork sung, is a dried Chinese meat item that has a light and fluffy texture similar to coarse cotton. Rousong is used as a topping for many foods such as congee, tofu, and savory soy milk. It is also used as filling for various buns and pastries, and as a snack food on its own. Rousong is a very popular food item in Chinese culture, and evident in its ubiquitous use in Chinese cuisine.

Rousong is made by stewing cheap cuts of pork in a sweetened soy sauce mixture until individual muscle fibers can be easily teased apart with a fork. This usually happens when the collagen and elastin that normally hold the fibers have been cooked out of the meat. The teased-apart meat is then strained and dried in the oven. After a light drying, the meat is mashed and beaten while being dry cooked in a large wok until it is completely dry. Additional flavorings are usually added while the mixture is being dry fried.

Five kilograms of meat will usually produce about one kilogram of rousong.

These days, I buy chà bông from a vendor in my neighborhood for 12,000 VND per 100 grams. She sells pork and chicken varieties that pretty much taste the same. I will conduct a blind taste test in the near future to confirm this hypothesis.

While I still love eating chà bông with porridge, my favorite preparation is with pasta. Nui chien (pasta with eggs) is one of the first dishes I ever learned how to cook—I think my aunt taught me how to prepare it when I was ten years old. The original recipe calls for Maggi seasoning sauce rather than chà bông, but I find that the salty stringy meat really enhances the overall flavor and texture.

The ingredients for this dish are simple—pasta, olive oil, eggs, salt, pepper and chà bông. After the pasta is cooked, I transfer it to a frying pan with a bit of oil, salt and pepper. Then I crack in two eggs and let it sit for a while on medium heat because I like my noodles golden and crispy.

I also like my eggs not-so-scrambled, so I keep the stirring to a minimum. Once the pasta is nice and fried and the eggs are fully cooked, I plate it, sprinkle a generous amount of pork floss on top and dig in. Since The Astronomer is not a fan of eggs, I make him an egg-less version that he likes quite a bit. Whenever I’m too lazy to go out for lunch or dinner, this is my go-to dish. It’s quick, easy and tastes like home.

How do you eat chà bông? And do you love or hate the term “pork floss?”

Mực

I don’t cook much in Saigon, but these gorgeous squid inspired me to get into the kitchen and whip up something fresh and delicious. During Tet, The Astronomer and I won some noodles at the Saigon Times New Year’s celebration and they’ve been sitting in the cupboard since then. Not wanting them to go to waste, I decided to make mi xao muc (pan-fried noodles with squid).

The ingredients included two good-sized squid, salt, pepper, scallions, two tomatoes, half a pineapple, okra, green beans, fish sauce and dried egg noodles. This dish was made to my taste, so I don’t have exact measurements.

And here’s the final product. I call this dish Traffic Stopping Squid Noodles due to the red, yellow and green color scheme. Cheesy, I know, but totally delicious too!