Archive for the 'Vegetarian' Category

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Dorie Greenspan’s Beggar’s Linguine – Pasta with Brown Butter, Dried Fruits, and Nuts

Published by Gastronomer on February 6, 2011 in French, Pasta + Rice, Recipe, Vegetarian and Vegetarian. 9 Comments

I dropped so many hints that I wanted Dorie Greenspan’s Around My French Table this past Christmas that I wound up receiving two copies. This post is dedicated to my sister-in-law Rosalind and my cousin Kristine—Thank you, gals!

I’ve been a tremendous fan of Ms. Greenspan’s ever since delving into Baking: From My Home to Yours [See: World Peace Cookies, Orange Berry Muffins, and Mango Bread]. Her writing is truly superb, while her recipes are interesting and inspiring. Whenever I prepare one of Ms. Greenspan’s creations, I can totally trust that she will not lead me and my stomach astray.

I chose to make Linguine Mendiant (Beggar’s Linguine) for my first foray into French home cooking. A mendiant is a traditional French confection composed of a chocolate disk studded with nuts and dried fruits—here’s a photo of the confection from my travels in Spain. This pasta dish, which Ms. Greenspan originally ate at a Parisian bistro called La Ferrandaise, replaces chocolate with linguine, creating a sweet and savory dish that’s completely unique.

A healthy dose of brown butter, a generous grating of Parmesan, and a hit of fresh parsley rounded out the flavors and kept the sweetness in check. Who would’ve thought noodles and fruit would pair so well?

1 pound (16 ounces) linguine
1 1/2 sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter
1/3 cup shelled pistachios, coarsely chopped
1/3 cup almonds, coarsely chopped
8 plump dried mission figs or 3 dried kadota figs, finely diced
1/4 cup plump, moist raisins (golden raisins are nice here)
1/4 cup dried apricots, sliced into thin strips
1/2 cup grated Parmesan (more or less to taste)
Grated zest of 1/2 orange (or more to taste)
Minced chives and/or parsley leaves, for serving (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook the linguine according to the package directions. When the pasta is cooked, drain it well, but don’t rinse it.

About 5 minutes before the pasta is ready, melt the butter over medium heat in a large high-sided skillet or casserole. (You’re going to add the pasta to this pan, so make sure it’s large enough.) When the butter is melted, hot and golden, stir in the nuts, figs and raisins. Allow the butter to bubble and boil – you want it to cook to a lovely light brown, or to turn into pan beurre noisette, butter with the color and fragrance of hazelnuts.

When it’s reached just the color you want, add the pasta to the pan. Stir the pasta around in the butter to coat it evenly and to tangle it up with the bits of fruit and nuts.

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Barley Risotto with Butternut Squash and Fried Sage

Published by Gastronomer on January 14, 2011 in Pasta + Rice, Recipe, Vegetarian and Vegetarian. 8 Comments

Even with well over fifty diverse cookbooks lining my bookshelf, I keep returning to same tome time and again—The America’s Test Kitchen Family Cookbook. I love how the folks at America’s Test Kitchen are meticulous in their recipe research and can always be depended on for fool-proof dishes accompanied by crystal clear instructions. It’s this guarantee of deliciousness that keeps me coming back for everything from cinnamon rolls to roasted beets to Thanksgiving turkey.

Late last year, America’s Test Kitchen released a companion book to my beloved three-ring bound bible: The America’s Test Kitchen Healthy Family Cookbook. I am forever on the search for dishes that pack a mean nutritional punch without sacrificing taste, so I knew this book would be a keeper.

The first “healthy” dish that I tackled was barley risotto with butternut squash—the fried sage was my own not-so-virtuous addition. Using barley in place of arborio rice, this version boasts more protein and fiber than traditional risotto without forgoing any of the dish’s characteristic creaminess. I appreciated how the hearty grain also added a toothy bite and nuttiness to each spoonful. Now, if only the Test Kitchen’s clever scientists could figure out how to reduce the amount of time spent behind the stove. Then, this recipe would truly be perfect.

For risotto

1 medium butternut squash (about 2 pounds), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2 inch cubes (about 3 1/2 cups)
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt
Pepper
4 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
4 cups water
1 onion, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 1/2 cups pearled barley
1 cup dry white wine
3/4 cups grated Parmesan
1 teaspoon minced fresh sage
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

For fried sage

10 sage leaves
1 tablespoon butter
Coarse salt

Make risotto

Adjust an oven rack to the upper middle position and heat the oven to 450 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Toss the squash with 2 teaspoons of the oil, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper and spread out over the prepared baking sheet. Roast the squash until tender and golden brown, about 30 minutes; set aside until needed.

Meanwhile, bring the broth and water to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting and cover to keep warm.

Combine the onion and 1 teaspoon of the oil in a large saucepan. Cover and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Stir in the barley, increase the heat to medium, and cook, stirring often, until lightly toasted and aromatic, about 4 minutes. Stir in the wine and continue to cook, stirring often, until the wine has been completely absorbed, about 2 minutes.

Stir in 3 cups of the warm broth and half of the roasted squash. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is absorbed and the bottom of the pan is dry, 22 to 25 minutes. Stir in 2 more cups of the warm broth and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is absorbed and the bottom of the pan is dry, 15 to 18 minutes longer.

Continue to cook the risotto, stirring often and adding 1/2 cup of the remaining broth at a time as needed to keep the pan bottom from becoming dry (about every 4 minutes), until the grains of barley are cooked through but still somewhat firm in the center, 15 to 20 minutes longer.

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Love Thy Neighbor: Making Dosas with Renuka

Published by Gastronomer on January 4, 2011 in Indian, Los Angeles, Pasadena, Potpourri and Vegetarian. 14 Comments

Last spring, a wonderful woman named Renuka moved into the apartment across from mine. She and her husband arrived from Madras, India to spend six months with their son Raga, a graduate student at Caltech. The moment Renuka stepped into her temporary home on East Del Mar Boulevard, she whipped out the pots, pans, and spices that she had carried with her from India, fired up the stove, and began cooking non-stop. Raga had been without proper home cooked meals for over a year, and as his coddling mother, she felt compelled to remedy the situation immediately.

Before I met Renuka face to face, I was seduced by the smells emanating from her kitchen. Whenever I stepped into the hallway that our apartments shared, I was smacked in the face by an intoxicating blend of chilies and spices. It was torturous to say the least.

I remember the first time I met Renuka vividly. It was early afternoon and I was preparing to grill a pork tenderloin. As I was carrying the meat from my apartment to the barbecue set up in the back lot, I noticed Renuka peeking her head out from her kitchen. I said hello and explained to her that I was working on a pork-intensive food photography project. She made a bit of a funny face and told me she was vegetarian. While holding the bloody hunk of pork in my hands, I tried my best to convince her that my regular diet was mostly meat-free. I’m not sure she believed me.

From that day forward, we spent time together on a regular basis. At first it was just hellos and how are yous, but it eventually evolved into a solid friendship—I’d never had such a lovely neighbor.

The first time Renuka invited me into her kitchen, she prepared one of her specialties. Dosa, a typical dish in South Indian cuisine, is a thin and crispy fermented crepe made from rice flour and lentils. I was hoping to witness the entire process from start to finish, but Renuka had already prepared the batter and the accompanying chutney by the time I arrived. All that was left to do was a little frying on the stove.
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Seared Gnocchi with Green Olive Sauce

Published by Gastronomer on December 27, 2010 in Pasta + Rice, Recipe, Vegetarian and Vegetarian. 3 Comments

Before leaving town for the holidays, The Astronomer and I planned a low-key dinner at home. With ten whole days between us and the quiet we’ve grown accustomed to, we made certain to savor this evening before our loving but chaotic families filled our days.

This recipe for Seared Gnocchi with Green Olive Sauce, which I found on Heidi Swanson’s lovely site 101 Cookbooks, called out to me on this occasion. In addition to sounding absolutely delightful, it intrigued me because of its unusual methods and ingredients. To prepare the gnocchi, a hot skillet is used in place of the usual boiling water. I wasn’t especially confident in this cooking method, but was most surprised that it yielded a tray of doughy potato balls with crisp exteriors and fluffy interiors.

I was also excited about the idea of a green olive-based pasta sauce. The original recipe used pitted olives procured from a specialty grocer, but the jarred ones that I had in my pantry and pitted by hand worked perfectly fine. Any fear of an intensely briny sauce faded the moment I took my first bite. The cream, broth, and onions mellowed out the olives’ punch, resulting in a memorable and unique sauce that paired tastily with the gnocchi. We ate the leftover sauce with penne and angel hair pasta with equally good results.

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or clarified butter
3/4 cup vegetable broth
1/3 cup heavy cream
1 2/3 cup (200 grams) green olives, pitted and chopped
Fresh lemon juice (optional)
1 pound gnocchi, either fresh or packaged
Fried capers
Bread crumbs, toasted
Sliced almonds, toasted

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, saute the garlic and onion in the 1 tablespoon of olive oil, until softened, a few minutes. Add the broth and cream, and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat, add the olives and let cool for a couple minutes.

Transfer cream mixture to a food processor and blend until no large chunks remain.

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America’s Test Kitchen Vegetarian Chili

Published by Gastronomer on November 5, 2010 in Recipe, Soups + Stew, Vegan and Vegetarian. 16 Comments

Given my great love of restaurants and their hardly healthful fare, it’s really important that my meals at home provide nutrients that otherwise go missing from my diet. Whenever I’m not painting the town red, I prepare recipes that make tasty use of whole grains, legumes, and vegetables. My subscription to Cooking Light magazine has been a great source of inspiration, and of course, the internet is chock full of solid ideas on how to balance the excess in my life.

The majority of the healthy dishes that I prepare serve their nutritional purpose and taste mostly decent, but they’re usually not outstanding enough to be featured on the site. This vegetarian three bean chili is a rare exception. In addition to being a fiberfull powerhouse, this meatless stew is also immensely satisfying. The heat from the chipotles combined with the smoky chili powder makes for an exciting and spicy flavor profile. The trio of beans provide just enough heft to fill one up nicely. Paired with some old fashioned cornbread, it’s impossible to feel deprived when one is eating this well.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 onions, chopped fine
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
1/4 cup chili powder
1 tablespoon cumin
6 garlic cloves, minced
3 (14.5 ounce) cans diced tomatoes
1 cup water
2 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce, minced
Salt
4 (15.5 ounce) cans of kidney, pinto, or black beans, rinsed
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro

Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onions, bell pepper, chili powder, and cumin. Cook until the vegetables have softened, about 7 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for 15 seconds.