Archive for the 'Seafood' Category

Eating in Nha Trang II

IMG_8633

We started off day two with complimentary breakfast from our hotel. I ordered a pineapple crepe and a banana smoothie. The crepe was all sorts of bland so I dipped it in The Astronomer’s honey, which made it much better. After we finished breakfast, we headed off on a snorkeling tour!

IMG_8637

The Astronomer and I had such an awesome time on our snorkeling tour in Phu Quoc, that we had to sign up for another one in Nha Trang. While I usually dislike tours, I think that snorkeling ones are wonderful because there’s usually lots of interesting people to meet, beautiful sites to see, and good food to be had.

IMG_8639

The Astronomer loves being out in the open sea. Just look at him—the boy is deliriously happy. The coral along the islands off the coast of Nha Trang weren’t as colorful as the ones in Phu Quoc, but we still had a great time swimming and floating around. The Vietnamese girls on our tour liked to squeal before getting into the water. What a riot.

IMG_8643

After snorkeling, we were served lunch on board. This here is shark with tomatoes. Shark, as you can imagine, is a meaty fish.

IMG_8644

The squid with pineapple was my favorite. The squid was much more tender than what we had for dinner the first night.

IMG_8647

I ate two plates of tofu with tomatoes by myself. I just love how deep-fried tofu soaks up flavors like a sponge.

IMG_8648

I used the fish forcemeat with black peppercorns (cha ca) and a baguette to make a lovely sandwich.

IMG_8650

Matt says that the shrimps were damn good, but I was too lazy to take the shells off. Lame, right? Sorry.

IMG_8651

I did not try the ramen noodles with vegetables because I was too busy eating tofu and baguettes.

IMG_8653

Now this is my kinda dessert. These types of bananas are called chuoi gia, which means old bananas. They taste very similar to the ones the U.S. imports from South America.

IMG_8655

After lunch we were treated to live music! This was THE best part of the whole trip. I had an especially good time because they honored my requests and played both “Hotel California” and “My Heart Will Go On.” Eee!

IMG_8656 - Copy

Who has four thumbs and loves cover bands? These guys!

IMG_8666

After the concert, the crew busted out the floating bar and handed everyone a bottle of wine. A boy from Australia got super drunk and made out with a British girl. I never thought I would encounter such shenanigans post-college, but I guess we’re never too old to whoop it up!

IMG_8665

Good friends sharing a bottle of wine on the open sea.

IMG_8669

A slightly tipsy Astronomer swimming back to the boat.

IMG_8673

And just in case you wanted to drink what we drank—the wine is from Dalat and made of mulberries. Look for it the next time you’re at Beverages and More.

IMG_8683

Once everyone was thoroughly wasted, we had a fruit party! We invited all of our bestest friends—pineapple, watermelon, oranges, dragon fruit, guava and even water apples.

IMG_8691

Our last stop before heading home was the Nha Trang aquarium. This unagi looks more scary than delicious.

IMG_8696

Shark.

IMG_8716

After our day of snorkeling fun, we returned to our hotel and went for a run. Later that evening, we walked around town in search of dinner. “Spaghetti Street” was calling our names, but we passed. We ended up at another seafood emporium because I didn’t do proper research before my trip.

Our first course was a plate of onion rings. These were sliced really thinly and battered lightly. I prefer fatty onion rings with a thick panko crust like the ones at Buddakan.

IMG_8724

Our main course was a deliciously prepared fish with woodear mushrooms and glass noodles. Mmm boy.

IMG_8718

I ate the fish straight up, but The Astronomer chose to wrap it properly with rice paper, green mangoes, cucumbers, herbs and lettuce.

We closed out the night with some fried rice. It tasted just like my mama’s, minus the Chinese sausage.

Eating in Nha Trang I

IMG_8574

After suffering through his first Boston winter, we treated our friend Matt to a trip to Nha Trang during his week-long stay in Vietnam. The goal of the trip was to nosh, relax and “get brown.”

By the way, Nha Trang will be the site of this year’s Miss Universe Pageant and the picture above is a billboard counting down the number of days until The Donald comes to town.

IMG_8575

Unlike the Jersey Shore, the beaches in Nha Trang are peaceful and empty. The funny thing about Nha Trang is that the waves roll on to the shore sideways. The Astronomer and I took a dip as soon as we arrived, while Matt soaked up some rays because he’s not much of a dipper.

 IMG_8578 IMG_8579

After beach time, we walked toward Nha Trang’s major market. On the way, I bought 100 grams of xi muoi Thai. I usually avoid xi muoi because it is oftentimes too lip-puckeringly sour, but this version was just right—salty and sweet. I also bought 100 grams of me Thai because I am addicted to sugar coated tamarind candies.

IMG_8598

We arrived at the market in the middle of the afternoon, which wasn’t the smartest because it was pretty much deserted and the vendors were napping.

IMG_8581

Our first stop at the market was at an alfresco joint serving up bun sua—rice vermicelli noodles with jellyfish. It turns out that jellyfish isn’t all that exciting. I would say that it’s definitely more texturally interesting than it is flavorful. The broth was clear and mild and the cha and tomatoes came through where the jellyfish lacked.

IMG_8583

Since Matt had never tried nuoc mia (sugarcane juice) we ordered him a tall glass.

IMG_8584

The boy dug it!

IMG_8589

Next we moved on to a che vendor. So many choices, so little time…

IMG_8586

The Astronomer and Matt tried the che bap, which was warm and good, but a bit too sweet.

IMG_8588

I had the che troi nuoc because it’s one of my favorites. Everything was exactly on point, down to the sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds. The mung bean paste inside the tapioca balls was just the right among of salty to contrast with the overall sweetness. Mmm!

IMG_8592

As we enjoyed our che, Matt spotted a bunch of live roosters hung from a motorbike. They were surprisingly quiet as a result of all the blood rushing to their heads. Poor guys.

IMG_8593

Xoi! I seriously can’t pass a xoi vendor without buying some and dropped 3,000 VND on a small bag of xoi gac. The sticky rice was more oily than usual and a really vibrant orange.

IMG_8595

While I munched on my newly acquired xoi, The Astronomer and Matt downed two bowls of mediocre mi quang—too much broth and too little zing.

IMG_8596

The Astronomer and Matt have ridiculous metabolisms and are thus able to munch on cookies all day and still have killer abs. I, on the other hand, must participate in street aerobics and run daily to maintain my physique.

IMG_8608

After the market, we walked to see the Cham towers. This is a view of the bridges of Nha Trang from the towers.

IMG_8609

And here is an actual Cham tower. I don’t mean to be a traitor to my people, but Angkor Wat was heaps more impressive.

IMG_8617

For our first dinner in the city, we dropped in at a large seafood emporium. The food wasn’t great, but we left stuffed and satisfied enough. Our first course was a jellyfish salad served with rice crackers.

IMG_8621

Here’s a closeup of the goods. I think I ate enough jellyfish for a lifetime in Nha Trang.

IMG_8622

Our second course was sweet and sour squid. The seasonings were meh and the squid was not Phu Quoc-tender. On a postive note, the pineapple chunks were tasty!

IMG_8625

Our penultimate course was braised catfish in a claypot. This dish was the standout of the evening and different from the ca kho I’ve eaten in Saigon due to the generous employment of ginger.

IMG_8627

And lastly, stir-fried noodles with seafood. Ho hum seafood makes for a ho hum noodle dish. However, a dousing of caramelized sauce from the ca kho turned things around.

The Crab Shack

small crabz

Living in Saigon, I’m constantly adding new Vietnamese words to my vocabulary. It’s fascinating how some terms stick straightaway, while others, regardless of how many times I run into them, refuse to integrate into my lexicon. For instance, I can’t seem to remember the words for “menu” even though I ask to see one practically every day. However, just one tasty encounter with soft-shell crabs was all it took for the words cua lot to be forever seared into my mind. I guess the part of my brain that processes new information is directly connected to my taste buds.

I visited Quán 94, a restaurant specializing in crabs, a few weeks back with a travel journalist named Peter. I was so stoked about the place after my initial visit that I returned less than a week later with a posse of friends because great food begs to be shared.

IMG_8379

A section of the restaurant’s entryway functions as a makeshift kitchen, and the soft-shells are prominently displayed front and center. There’s something strange and yet strangely appealing about seeing the crustaceans alive and kicking prior to consuming them.

The not-to-be-missed dishes are the soft-shell crabs with tamarind (cua lot xao me - 75,000 VND) and the traditional battered and deep-fried soft-shell crabs (cua lot chien bot - 75,000 VND). The tamarind variety was doused in a glossy sweet and sour sheen that managed to leave me speechless. The soft-shells’ texture was nothing short of perfect and absorbed the tamarind sauce unexpectedly well. The battered and deep-fried ones were served up golden and crispy with a condiment made from fish sauce, ginger and chilies that complemented the texture and flavors beautifully. I can’t believe soft-shell crabs are available in Saigon for $2.34 a piece! Criminal.

IMG_8371

The glass noodles sautéed with crab (mien xao cua - 70,000 VND) and shrimp (mien xao tom - 70,000 VND) were also fantastic. Flavored with fish sauce and potent black pepper, the crab glass noodles contained generous hunks of meat and roe. Sure, there was the occasional shell, but I didn’t mind because these noodles were on par with Grandma’s. The consistency of the shrimp glass noodles was unbeatable and my dining companions were pleased that the shrimps were served peeled, a rarity in this country.

IMG_8372

The crab-stuffed egg rolls (cha gio cua - 55,000 VND) were deep-fried to order and served with vermicelli rice noodles, fish sauce, herbs, and lettuce. At 11,000 VND a piece, these were the priciest cha gio I’ve ever encountered, but absolutely worth every dong because the kitchen didn’t mess around with fillers like taro, onions, and woodear mushrooms. The innards were one-hundred percent pure crab meat.

84 Dinh Tien Hoang Street
District 1, HCMC
Phone: 9101062

Quán Nướng 3T

collage

Grillin’ like a Villain - clockwise from top left - muc nuong sate, goi bon bon, bo tung xeo, so huyet rang me

The Astronomer and I tagged along with a travel journalist named Peter a number of times last week as he explored some of Saigon’s best eateries for a piece in progress.

After our extensive food tour of District 4, we met up with Peter for dinner at Quán Nướng 3T in District 1. As its name implies, the restaurant specializes in grillin,’ and every table is equipped with a brazier for diners to cook their own supper. The only thing that could have made this place better was if we hunted our prey too.

Peter heard good things about the bo tung xeo (60,000 VND), so we made sure to get an order of that. The pieces of cow marinated in garlic arrived raw and ready to meet the heat. The fatty bits splattered a bit, but the burning sensation on my arm subsided once I tasted the results, which were tender and savory. Eating red meat makes me feel like a caveman.

The heo rung nuong xa ot (wild boar marinated in chilies and lemongrass - 45,000 VND) was also a treat to grill up. Sliced more thinly than the bo tung xeo, these little piggies cooked up quickly and had plenty of chewy cartilage for me to gnaw on.

Our last victims of the evening were the muc nuong sate (squid marinated in sate sauce - 45,000 VND). Even though the squid was not Phu Quoc-tender, the spicy and salty sate seasonings made up for the less than perfect texture.

We rounded out our protein-rific and grill-centric meal with an order of so huyet rang me (blood cockles with tamarind sauce - 35,000 VND). Unlike the bloody cockles I’ve enjoyed in District 4, these contained a bit of minced lemongrass which added a subtle new layer of flavor.

The goi bon bon (75,000 VND) was wonderfully fresh, but couldn’t compete with the beefy, piggy and squidy delights.

29-31 Ton That Thiep Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
Phone: 8211633

Seafood a la Sidewalk

February 15, 2008
Cuisine: Vietnamese, Seafood

Ton That Thuyet Street
District 4, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: none
Website: none

Fruits of the Sea - clockwise from top left - condiments for dipping, blood cockles sauteed in tamarind, grilled mussels, clams sauteed in garlic (25,000 VND per dish)

My friend Luscious loves food with a passion, so I’m working overtime to introduce her to the very best of Vietnamese cuisine during her month-long stay.

We’ve had lots of great food thus far, but the one eatery that made her squeal with utter delight was the seafood shack we stumbled into in District 4.

The blood cockles smothered in sweet and tangy tamarind sauce knocked our socks off. There were definitely numerous oohs and ahs as we hungrily dug into the plate. The Astronomer bought some baguettes from the vendor down the street to sop up the divine sauce because it’s criminal to discard something so perfect.

The clams with garlic were also finger lickin’ good! What’s there not to love about tender clams dressed in hunks of sweet garlic? These morsels were not as intense as the cockles, but truly just as tasty.

Our last course of the evening were the grilled mussels. I find it rather funny that chem chép nướng means exactly the same thing from seafood shack to seafood shack—grilled mussels topped with scallion oil and crushed peanuts. Where’s the creativity? The grilled mussels tasted just like they did at previous sidewalk seafood eateries; smoky, crunchy and yummy.

We walked back to the apartment with greasy lips and happy bellies.