Archive for the 'Unique Meats' Category

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Pasta with Eggs and Pork Floss

I’ve been eating chà bông ever since I was a kid. My grandma used to sprinkle it atop hot plain porridge and serve it for breakfast. For some bizarre reason, chà bông is known as “pork floss” in English. I loathe the term, but must admit that it is catchy and intriguing, especially for the uninitiated.

Here’s a little back story on the mysterious meat bi-product:

Rousong, also called meat floss, pork floss, or pork sung, is a dried Chinese meat item that has a light and fluffy texture similar to coarse cotton. Rousong is used as a topping for many foods such as congee, tofu, and savory soy milk. It is also used as filling for various buns and pastries, and as a snack food on its own. Rousong is a very popular food item in Chinese culture, and evident in its ubiquitous use in Chinese cuisine.

Rousong is made by stewing cheap cuts of pork in a sweetened soy sauce mixture until individual muscle fibers can be easily teased apart with a fork. This usually happens when the collagen and elastin that normally hold the fibers have been cooked out of the meat. The teased-apart meat is then strained and dried in the oven. After a light drying, the meat is mashed and beaten while being dry cooked in a large wok until it is completely dry. Additional flavorings are usually added while the mixture is being dry fried.

Five kilograms of meat will usually produce about one kilogram of rousong.

These days, I buy chà bông from a vendor in my neighborhood for 12,000 VND per 100 grams. She sells pork and chicken varieties that pretty much taste the same. I will conduct a blind taste test in the near future to confirm this hypothesis.

While I still love eating chà bông with porridge, my favorite preparation is with pasta. Nui chien (pasta with eggs) is one of the first dishes I ever learned how to cook—I think my aunt taught me how to prepare it when I was ten years old. The original recipe calls for Maggi seasoning sauce rather than chà bông, but I find that the salty stringy meat really enhances the overall flavor and texture.

The ingredients for this dish are simple—pasta, olive oil, eggs, salt, pepper and chà bông. After the pasta is cooked, I transfer it to a frying pan with a bit of oil, salt and pepper. Then I crack in two eggs and let it sit for a while on medium heat because I like my noodles golden and crispy.

I also like my eggs not-so-scrambled, so I keep the stirring to a minimum. Once the pasta is nice and fried and the eggs are fully cooked, I plate it, sprinkle a generous amount of pork floss on top and dig in. Since The Astronomer is not a fan of eggs, I make him an egg-less version that he likes quite a bit. Whenever I’m too lazy to go out for lunch or dinner, this is my go-to dish. It’s quick, easy and tastes like home.

How do you eat chà bông? And do you love or hate the term “pork floss?”

Eating Mice Can Be Rather Nice

February 20, 2008
Cuisine: Vietnamese

146 Ha Ba Trung Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 8228510
Website: none

There are some very interesting meats available for consumption in South East Asia. I’ve seen bugs, ostriches, dogs, snakes, bats and even cats for sale. While I draw the line at domesticated animals and insects, I’ll pretty much eat everything else, just as long as it was prepared with love, looks appetizing, and smells good.

With the year of the rat in full swing, a group of friends and I recently ventured outside our comfort zones to try a Mekong Delta specialty—mouse.

The breed of mice served up in local restaurants are not native to the city and are in fact from the countryside. These mice resided in rice fields and feasted on whole grains prior to meeting their makers. If this were America, the words “grain-fed” and “organic” would be touted on the restaurant menus serving up these little guys.

The mice at Huong Rung 2 restaurant are available in two preparations—ro ti (top) and quay (bottom). We ordered one of each to truly get a sense of the range of flavors mice can achieve. The quay mice arrived first. Two chuot quay—barbecued mice—set us back 60,000 VND. Upon their arrival, we scoffed at their scrawniness. Compared to the large fillets and drumsticks we’re accustomed to eating, these looked like beef jerky. At first bite, I found the barbecued mouse decent, but too bony to really dig into. Sometimes I took too large of a bite and chipped off and swallowed some bone, but it was no big deal because mice have really brittle bones.

Everyone agreed that the chuot roti (30,000 VND) preparations were much tastier than the barbecued. Dressed up in a glossy five-spice sauce with hunks of roasted garlic, the mice tasted surprisingly good. Even though the savory sauce didn’t add anymore meat onto the mice’s bones, it enhanced their overall flavor. However, to be honest, just about any creature doused in a garlicky five-spice sauce would be tasty.

Cruising the Mekong Delta

The Astronomer and I played hooky two Fridays ago to visit the Mekong Delta. We traveled with a tour group (Sinh Cafe) because the southern part of Vietnam isn’t as accessible as the larger cities. For a measly eighteen bucks, we enjoyed a two-day, one-night excursion and a souvenir t-shirt.

We began our tour at 8 AM at the Sinh Cafe office in Saigon. We arrived in the Mekong two and a half hours later and boarded a boat to see the Cai Be floating market. Unfortunately, it was quite late by Vietnam standards and most of the buying and selling action had died down.

The second stop on the tour was at the Thanh Phong candy “factory” where we saw coconut candy, rice paper and rice crispy treats being made. The coconut candy tasted like dulce de leche with only a hint of coconut, while the rice crispy treats reminded me of Kashi puffed cereal. We were told that the rice paper would be used to make egg rolls.

After the factory tour, we boarded the boat to explore the delta a bit more and then headed to lunch. Lunch was included in the package and consisted of soup, rice, pork chops, egg rolls, and some veggies. I ate way too many sweets during the candy tour, so I gave my chop and rice to my hungry traveling companion. The soup was a simple vegetable and pasta combination that seems to be a Mekong Delta specialty.

Course I: vegetable and pasta soup

Course II: pork chops with rice, vegetables and egg rolls

Toward the end of lunch, a three-piece Vietnamese band performed songs using traditional instruments. I really liked how the singers contorted their voices for the Cải Lương numbers.

Post-lunch we hopped on the boat once more to further explore the Delta. The surroundings were beautiful and peaceful. After an hour or so, the boat dropped us off in the city of Vinh Long where we boarded a bus that took us to the city of Can Tho via ferry.

For dinner, The Astronomer and I ditched the tour group and sought out some good ‘ol street food. Can Tho is the largest city in the southern portion of the country, but sadly doesn’t have a large selection of street eats. We stopped for a bite at a stall selling bun mang on Tran Viet Chau Street.

The damp Mekong air put us in the mood for a hot bowl of duck noodle soup.

Duck Noodle Soup (10,000 VND)

The bun mang really hit the spot; I especially enjoyed dipping the duck in the ginger fish sauce. The Astronomer drowned his blood Jello in the ginger fish sauce to make it more palatable—whatever floats your boat. After dinner we went to the hotel and crashed.

Day two of the tour began bright and early. The hotel buzzed our room at 6:30 AM and we departed to see the Cai Rang floating market at 7:30 AM. The market is mainly for wholesalers rather than regular folks, so we didn’t make any purchases. The large pole on each boat signifies what the boat is selling.

After a three-hour tour of the markets and surrounding areas, we arrived at a fruit orchard to relax. There were many hammocks set up along the shady trees, which The Astronomer really dug. We also enjoyed some fresh fruits.

The penultimate stop on the Mekong Delta tour was at a rice husking factory. As a proponent of whole-grains and fiber, I must admit that I was saddened by this whole affair. We saw a huge machine that essentially stripped the nutrients from the rice—how depressing.

Before busing back to Saigon, the tour stopped at a restaurant in Can Tho for lunch. The prices were high and the portions were small. Double whammy. Time constraints made it impossible to ditch the group during this meal. The Astronomer ordered the beef and fries, while I had some frog!

Beef and fries with baguette (30,000 VND)

Frog sauteed with onions, glass noodles, and mushrooms (30,000 VND)

This was my first encounter with frog, which I thought tasted like a cross between chicken and fish. Ribbit! My mom says that I should eat a lot of frog in Vietnam because American frozen frog just isn’t as good. Yes, ma’am.

Thanh Hải: Other Snails Pale in Comparison

October 2007
Cuisine: Vietnamese

14/12 Ky Dong Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 8435785
Website: none

Bun Oc Rieu Cua (10,000 VND)

Oc Hap Nhoi Thit (25,000 VND)

Oc Gao Luoc La Chanh (10,000 VND)

Oc Ham Thuoc Bac (15,000 VND)

Oc Xao Chui Xanh (10,000 VND)

Saigon Times take two. And a big cam on to Noodlepie for excellent dining advice!

When asked how many bowls of bun rieu she sells daily at her self-named eatery in District 3, Mrs. Thanh Hai merely grins. She is unwilling to reveal to a stranger the extent of her restaurant’s popularity among locals and visitors alike. What began as a small street stall in 1984 has blossomed today into a 50-seat restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Thanh Hai has been dishing up bun rieu and a number of other snail-centric dishes in a peaceful cul-de-sac off of Ky Dong Street since 1995. Hidden away from the hustle and bustle of Saigon traffic, a meal here feels pleasantly far from the daily grind.

The restaurant’s recipes are original creations of Mrs. Thanh Hai and are heavily influenced by her upbringing in the northern province of Thai Binh. She has been perfecting her cuisine ever since her arrival in Saigon 26 years ago.

Whereas pho has gained international admirers, bun rieu is still relatively unknown to Westerners. Fresh vermicelli noodles and a pleasantly sour crab-based broth lay the foundation for this strictly northern delicacy. Juicy red tomatoes add a robust layer of tanginess to the soup.

The two bun rieu selections on the restaurant’s menu are bun oc rieu cua (10,000 VND) and bun rieu cua (8,000 VND). The former includes snails (oc) and crab (cua) and is the chef’s personal favorite, while the latter contains only crab. Whereas the crab absorbs the broth’s deep flavor, the sautéed snails enhance the soup’s aroma and texture. To fully experience bun rieu, a combination of crab and snails is absolutely essential.

Mam ruoc (fermented shrimp paste), lime wedges, bean sprouts, herbs, and a plethora of greens are on hand for diners to personalize their bowls of bun rieu to taste.

In addition to bun rieu, Thanh Hai prepares several uniquely Vietnamese snail entrees with portions hefty enough to share. Whereas French escargot requires copious amounts of rich butter and cream, Thanh Hai uses natural herbs and spices to produce snail dishes that are much kinder on the waistline and lighter on the palate.

The restaurant’s two snail standouts are oc xao chui xanh and oc hap nhoi thit. The oc xao chui xanh (10,000 VND) consists of stir-fried snails, green bananas and basil. The green bananas are starchy and nothing like their ripened counterparts, while the snails are de-shelled and agreeably chewy. The simple ingredients meld together spectacularly well, creating a flavor reminiscent of Italian pesto.

The oc hap nhoi thit (25,000 VND) is the priciest item on the menu and the most popular among patrons, according to Mrs. Thanh Hai. Snails, spices, and meat are combined to form meatballs that are steamed inside large snail shells. Served with a spicy ginger and fish sauce vinaigrette, this dish is immensely satisfying.

Thanh Hai consistently turns out quality food at more than reasonable prices. Though a little off the beaten path, this restaurant is a true gem and is worth visiting to treat your taste buds.

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