After downing three bowls of ramen at Ikaruga & Tokyo Edoama on Ramen Street in Tokyo Station, The Astronomer and I made our way above ground and headed for dinner. We weren’t the slightest bit hungry, of course, but with only ten hours in Tokyo, it didn’t really matter. Two omakase, coming right up!

Our destination this evening was Sushi Kanesaka, a two-star Michelin establishment owned and operated by Chef Kanesaka. The specialty here is Edomae sushi, a traditional style that emphasizes the purity of the ingredients; no bells or whistles, just meticulously prepared rice and the most pristine seafood.

The restaurant, unceremoniously located in the basement of a building in Ginza, is quite small, with just sixteen counter seats. The cost for dinner is ¥20,000, approximately $200. We weren’t seated in Chef Kanesaka’s area this evening, but we were well taken care of by his associate.

Here’s a course-by-course rundown of the superb omakase we enjoyed this evening, along with a few notes. We were joined at Sushi Kanesaka by our friend and Tokyo resident Tomo.

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Sweet Baby Shrimp & Sea Urchin (uni)

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Hairy Crab (kegani)

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Yellowtail & Bonito

The yellowtail was served unadorned, while the bonito was lightly smoked and salted. Shredded fresh baby ginger, wakame, and pickled ginger were served on the side. The restaurant’s gorgeous plateware was made by Japanese artist Kitaoji Rosanjin (1883–1959).

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Salmon Eggs (ikura)

I learned this evening that impeccably fresh salmon eggs do not pop when bitten into. Instead, each orb smoothly unleashes its oily sheen with the gentlest of pressure, flooding the palate with oceanic bliss. Topped with grated yuzu zest and served over warm rice, the ikura course was unforgettable.

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Surf Clam (hokkigai)

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Black Throat Perch (nodoguro)

This seasonal fish was lightly grilled and a touch smoky.

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Striped Jack (shima aji)

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Plum Hand Roll with Shiso

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Lean Tuna (maguro) 

From Ooma Aomori, the lean tuna was brushed with soy sauce.

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Medium-Fat Tuna (chutoro) 

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Fatty Tuna (ootoro)

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Squid (sumi ika) 

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Shad (kohada) 

Briny. Vinegary. Delicious.

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Horse Mackerel (aji)

The aji was complemented by shiso, scallions, and ginger.

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Prawn (kuruma ebi)

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Pen Shell (tairagai) 

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Clam (hamaguri) 

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Sea Urchin (uni)

From Hokkaido Nemuro—delicate and sweet.

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Salt-water Eel (anago)

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Egg (tamago)

More custardy than eggy, this final piece was the perfect sweet send off.

Until next time, Tokyo…

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Sushi Kanesaka
B/F, Misuzu Building, 8-10-3 Ginza, Chuo-ku,Tokyo
Phone: +81 3-5568-4411

Craving sushi? Here are my favorite spots to scratch a raw fish itch in Los Angeles:

• Nozawa Bar – Los Angeles (Beverly Hills)
• Hama Sushi – Los Angeles (Downtown)
• Sugarfish by Sushi Nozawa – Los Angeles (Downtown)
• Sushi Gen – Los Angeles (Downtown)
• Sushi Komasa – Los Angeles (Downtown)
• Sushi Ichi – Pasadena
• Sushi Kimagure – Pasadena
• Yama Seafood – San Gabriel
• Mitsuwa Marketplace – Los Angeles (Torrance)
• Mori Sushi – Los Angeles