Happy 2020, everyone! Thank you for making Gastronomy a part of your internet surfing routine. I dined out far more frequently than I blogged in 2019, so I still have a few more meals to recount before diving into the new year. Now up is Bon Temps, my favorite Los Angeles restaurant experience in 2019.
Chef Lincoln Carson is making magnificent food at Bon Temps, his newish and French-ish restaurant in the Arts District. From start to finish, every single dish dazzled and delighted with the kind of polish that can only be honed over time and tenure.
There were cocktails to start for me and my dining companion Thien. For her, a “3rd & Revolucion” with tequila reposado, aperitivo, lemon, pineapple, and spice ($15). And for me, predictably, a cognac Old Fashioned with grand Champagne cognac, maraschino, absinthe, and bitters ($14).
First to arrive was a complimentary fougasse, a crisp and rich loaf with preserved lemons and leeks.
The delicate tartlets that followed came filled with luscious sea urchin cream and prettied with caviar ($24), along with bite-sized chicken liver puffs with a cherry gastrique and chicken craquelin ($10).
Thien caught sight of another table’s heirloom tomatoes ($18) and insisted we order them too. The accompanying plums, black olives, and pine nuts rounded out the fresh and forward flavors.
One of the most memorable courses of the night, as well as one of my favorite dishes of the year, was the Acquerello risotto with sea lettuce and caviar. Each grain seemingly melded into itself, creating the most luxurious creamy spoonfuls of ocean-kissed porridge ($32).
Also fantastic was the Dungeness crab with pain die mie, avocado, and mustard beurre blanc ($25). I loved how this dish was simultaneously rich yet light somehow, perfectly balanced from top to bottom, literally.
The Maine scallops arrived with a few standout flourishes, including Early Girl tomatoes, hazelnuts, and best of all, supple squid rings and tentacles ($33).
Served on the side was a stick-to-your-bones helping of French grits ($12) heaped with beech mushrooms and a burnt onion syrup.
For dessert: the tremendous St. Honore with pecan mousseline, chantilly, and caramel ($23).
While Chef Carson is best known for his way around pastries and desserts, it’s clear from dining at Bon Temps that savories are a strong suit too. Every course was a feast for the eyes, as well as the palate, making a meal at Bon Temps deeply pleasurable.
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Bon Temps
712 South Santa Fe Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90021
Phone: 213-784-0044
One year ago: Slacker.
Two years ago: {swoon} Escargots at Chez Fonfon
Three years ago: YakiYan – Los Angeles (Hacienda Heights)
Four years ago: Ivan Ramen – New York City
Five years ago: The Year in Delicious: Top 10 Sweets of 2014
Six years ago: Portland Odds & Sods: Pine State Biscuits, Olympic Provisions, Le Pigeon, Nuvrei, Tasty n Alder
Seven years ago: Vietnamese Chicken Curry Pot Pie
Eight years ago: Bún Riêu Cua – Vietnamese Crab and Tomato Soup
Nine years ago: Oyster Bar – Las Vegas (Palace Station)
Ten years ago: Frank Stitt’s Creamy Grits
Eleven years ago: Bánh Mì & Chè Cali – San Gabriel
Twelve years ago: Zenbu – La Jolla
Thirteen years ago: Cunetto House of Pasta – St. Louis