Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Potpourri

07 Jun 2013

National Doughnut Day 2013: The 10 Best Doughnuts Ever

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Back in December of 2010, Eater LA asked a slew of the city’s food writers to predict a dining world headline for 2011. My prediction—”Gourmet Doughnuts Overtake Cupcakes and Macarons!”—wasn’t based on anything substantial, just a secret hope that I had been harboring since being introduced to the genre at New York’s Doughnut Plant and at Seattle’s Top Pot Doughnuts and Frost Doughnuts.

Needless to say, doughnuts did not dominate Los Angeles in 2011, or the year after that. We’re six months into 2013, and things are finally heating up on the local doughnut front. Hallelujah!

In honor of National Doughnut Day, and the exciting happenings in the L.A. doughnut scene, I present to you the 10 Best Deep-Fried Delights that I’ve encountered so far on my search for the ever-elusive doughnut high…

Bánh cam from a street vendor in Saigon, Vietnam

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Recipe

05 Jun 2013

Sườn Nướng – Vietnamese Grilled Pork Ribs

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One of the perks of having a mother who works for a meat distribution company are the random acts of ~~kindness~~ meatiness that occur from time to time. I love it when Mom surprises me with pounds of jumbo shrimp, bags of frozen chicken fingers, or most recently, racks of baby back ribs. With Memorial Day, the official start of the summer grilling season, around the corner, the timing could not have been any more perfect. These racks o’ ribs were destined to meet the heat, Vietnamese-style.

Sườn nướng was a mealtime staple growing up. Not only was it served often on weeknights for dinner, but it also made regular appearances at beachside family gatherings—La Jolla Shores, represent. The ease of prepping and cooking the ribs, as well as their intrinsic deliciousness, made them a standby for every occasion.

Comprised of just five ingredients—fish sauce, sugar, salt, black pepper, and shallots—this easy marinade treats pork to a sweet, salty, and wholly umami bath. Soaked overnight, then grilled over hot flames, the ribs’ exterior caramelizes beautifully, while the innards remain tender and flavorful.

The recipe below produces ribs that are savory enough to pair with a heap of rice, the Vietnamese way, but for those looking to eat their meat straight up, ease up some on the fish sauce and salt.

According to Mom, this is the best marinade ever. And she’s absolutely right.

2 to 3 pounds pork ribs, separated
2 large shallots, finely minced
4 ounces fish sauce (approximately 1/2 cup)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
5 ounces granulated sugar (approximately 1/3 cup)

To prepare the marinade, whisk together the shallots, fish sauce, salt, pepper, and sugar in a medium-size bowl. Transfer the marinade to a gallon-size Ziploc bag, along with the ribs, and let the meat and marinade marry in the refrigerator overnight.

Let the ribs stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before grilling. Over medium-high flames, grill the ribs on both sides until slightly charred and fully cooked through, approximately 6 to 10 minutes per side. Optional: brush the ribs with leftover marinade.

Once the ribs are fully cooked, transfer to a serving platter and let rest for 5 minutes.

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Restaurant Review

03 Jun 2013

Tacos Leo Truck – Los Angeles

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When the sun sets over Los Angeles, the taqueros come out in full force from all corners of the city. The 76 gas station on the corner of Venice and La Brea in Mid-City plays host to the city’s finest al pastor operation, literally “shepherd-style” tacos prepared on a trompo (rotating spit), which was influenced by Lebanese immigrants in Mexico.

There’s almost always a line snaking through the parking lot, but Leo’s crew never breaks a sweat. Service is prompt and efficient, so you’ll get your taco in a timely fashion.

The pork, colored a fetching shade of red from dried red chilies and achiote paste (a blend of annatto, oregano, cumin, clove, cinnamon, black pepper, allspice, garlic, and salt), is loaded onto the trompo with precision and left to roast until perfectly tender and glossy.

As orders roll in, the cashier scribbles tickets for the taquero, who lops off the perfect porky portion straight into a griddled corn tortilla with a few swift flicks of his wrist.

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