Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Now Closed

25 Jan 2013

Brunch at The Spice Table – Los Angeles (Downtown)

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A most enticing Instagram snapped and expertly filtered by The Spice Table‘s Bryant Ng sent my friend Nastassia and me into a doughnut-induced tizzy. Constantly on the search for the very best deep-fried rings around, we made immediate plans for weekend brunch, the only meal where this coconut- and pandan-glazed beauty is served.

Nastassia, her boyfriend Reade, and I arrived at right about noon to a humming dining room last Saturday. The restaurant has been quietly serving brunch since December, but didn’t advertise it to the public until just a few weeks ago. It’s clear that word has gotten out about this midday feast.

“The Kaya Doughnut” ($3) arrived at the table before our slew of savories, as requested. After we snapped more photos than we’d like to admit, Nastassia went in for the first bite. The huge smile that crept across her face and the sigh that followed signaled to me that this doughnut was gonna be great!

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Restaurant Review

23 Jan 2013

Parm – New York City

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Following our stroll through The High Line and a festive deep-fried breakfast, The Astronomer, Sonia, and I headed to Parm for a late lunch on our first full day in the city. Here at this quaint spot in Nolita, Chefs Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone celebrate and “elevate” Italian-American cooking in all its red sauce glory.

With quite a bit of buzz surrounding the restaurant, including a 2-star review in the Times, I was more than a little excited to experience what all the hubbub was about. Plus, I hadn’t eaten any parmigiana, be it meatball, veal, or eggplant, since graduating from college, so it was high-time I got my fill.

We arrived sometime past 2 PM and waited a quick minute before being seated. Sonia’s dined here just about a dozen times, including the night before, so she led us through the restaurant’s greatest hits. I also cribbed some notes while reading Pete Wells’ write up, so we were all set on the ordering front.

We started with a slew of appetizers, including warm-from-the-oven “Pizza Knots ($5)” sprinkled with crumbly Parmesan and fresh parsley. Whereas classic pizza parlor “knots” are doughy, greasy things that have a way of hijacking one’s stomach, these were lighter specimens with a definite crust and fluffy innards.

While I could’ve gone for seconds, the portion size allotted us only a knot each. Perhaps this was for the best considering how much food was coming our way.

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Recipe

21 Jan 2013

Nước Chấm – Vietnamese Fish Sauce Vinaigrette

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Of all the family recipes I’ve learned over the years, this nuoc cham is without question the most essential. From com tam (broken rice) to banh cuon (pork and mushroom crepes) to cha gio (deep-fried spring rolls) to thit nuong (grilled pork), nearly every dish in the Vietnamese culinary cannon depends on this sweet and sour “mother” sauce to season, spice, and delight. When paired with a lackluster nuoc cham, even the most carefully prepared dishes can fall disappointingly flat.

This recipe comes from Aunt Phuong, the premier nuoc cham artist in my family. While garlic, chilies, lime juice, sugar, and fish sauce are all standard ingredients, her use of Coco Rico soda in place of water takes the vinaigrette to the next level. Though mostly mild in flavor, the coconut-tinged soda brings a crisp sweetness that water doesn’t possess. The soda’s carbonation fades just as soon as it’s combined with the sugar, so no worries about bubbly nuoc cham. Stir, stir, stir…

When stored in an airtight container, the vinaigrette will keep in the fridge for up to four months.

4 large garlic cloves
2 Thai red chillies
1 can Coco Rico soda (12 ounces)
6 tablespoons granulated sugar (77 grams)
1/2 cup fish sauce
1/4 cup fresh lime juice

Trim and finely mince garlic cloves and chilies. Set aside.

Combine sugar and soda in a medium-sized bowl, stirring briskly with a large spoon to dissolve sugar completely.

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