Jan 2013

Doughnuttery – New York City

Doughnuttery - New York City

The Astronomer and I devoured a platter of street meat at the corner of 53rd and 6th the moment we arrived on Manhattan soil this past December. It was well past midnight and well below forty degrees at the time, but one forkful of the chopped lamb smothered in white sauce and none of that seemed to matter. Plus, the less-than-ideal conditions made for no lines and instant gratification.

We followed up our late-night snack with a good night’s sleep and awakened the next morning ready to explore and feast some more. After meeting up with my sister-in-law Sonia and strolling along The High Line, we made our way to Chelsea Market for breakfast at the Doughnuttery.

Doughnuttery - New York City

I was alerted to the existence of the Doughnuttery by a press release that serendipitously landed in my inbox a few days before the trip. The stall, which debuted in early December, is a collaboration between pastry chef Katie Rosenhouse and her business partner Evan Feldman.

While the Doughnuttery’s batter and flavored sugars are original creations, the deep-frying setup is fairly commonplace. I encountered identical machinery at Seattle’s Street Donuts back in 2011, as well as at my office building’s holiday party last year. Still, it was pretty mesmerizing watching the tiny O’s being made.

Doughnuttery - New York City

Here, doughnuts are sold by the half-dozen or dozen and are fried-to-order in trans-fat free shortening. There are over a dozen flavor possibilities including “PBCP” (peanut butter, cayenne, and pretzel), “Paris Time” (lavender, pistachio, and vanilla sugar), and “Cacaoboy” (cacao nibs, mesquite and black sugar). “Dough Dips” include pumpkin beer caramel, toffee sauce, and raspberry balsamic.

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Jan 2013

{swoon} Carnitas Eight Ways at Metro Balderas

Metro Balderas - Highland Park

While the Mexico City-style cooking at Metro Balderas is appealing any day of the week, it’s especially enticing on Saturdays and Sundays when carnitas are on parade. Weekends here are dedicated to glorious piggy parts, lovingly fried in lard then slow-cooked and braised in natural juices before being tucked into a corn tortilla and garnished with diced onions and chopped cilantro.

The Astronomer and I warmed up with the maciza (shoulder) and the costilla (ribs), the least adventurous cuts of the eight on offer. The former was more or less a mound of pulled pork, while the latter was lean, mean, and caramelized. Next, we tucked into the cuerito (skin) and trompa (snout), deliciously gelatinous morsels that soaked up the braising liquid like a porcine sponge.

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Jan 2013

Meyer Lemon Curd Tart

Meyer Lemon Curd Tart

The dwarf Meyer lemon tree that The Astronomer’s parents gifted us two years ago produced only three fruits this season, which meant that there was only enough juice, zest, and flesh to execute one lemon-intensive recipe. After scrounging my bookshelves, the internet, and a fantastic article titled “100 things to do with a Meyer lemon” for a very worthy candidate, I settled on this Meyer lemon curd tart by Chef Anne Burrell. Cakes and cookies were all in the running, but I ultimately chose a curd-based creation to let the fruit’s one-of-a-kind flavor shine through cleanly and brightly.

While I usually bake solo due to lack of counter space in the kitchen, I recruited The Astronomer to make the shortbread crust because he’s got a cool touch that’s perfect for working, shaping, and forming dough. This left me in charge of the filling, which came together as simply as the recipe billed, although it was a touch too sweet for our tastes. The original recipe called for 1 1/3 cups sugar, but a single cup would’ve been more suitable for our puckery palates—the recipe below reflects this preference.

Our tag-team effort yielded a most lovely tart—smooth curd cradled by a delicate, buttery crust. While it would’ve been awesome to have had a more bountiful lemon harvest this season, we maximized our Meyer lemon pleasure with this simple but immensely satisfying tart. Ain’t nothin’ like California citrus.

What else to make with Meyer lemons? Last year, The Astronomer made a dynamite Shrimp Piri Piri, while I baked blissfully bitter muffins.

For the crust

  • 1 stick cold butter, cut into pea size pieces
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1 1/4 cup all-purpose flour, plus extra for rolling dough
  • 1 egg yolk
  • Pinch salt
  • 2 to 4 tablespoons cold water

For the curd

  • 3/4 cup freshly squeezed Meyer lemon juice
  • 3 Meyer lemons, zested
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 5 eggs
  • Pinch salt
  • 1 1/2 sticks butter, cut into pats

Make the dough

Meyer Lemon Curd Tart

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F.

Put the butter, sugar, flour, egg yolk and salt in a food processor and pulse for 30 to 60 seconds or until the mixture has a grainy consistency, or what Chef Anne Burrell likes to call the “Parmesan cheese” stage. Add half of the water and pulse the food processor 2 to 3 times. The dough should start to come together, add the remaining water if needed. Check the consistency of the dough by clenching a small handful in your fist. If the dough stays together it is the proper consistency. If not, pulse the dough with a little more water.

When the dough has reached the proper consistency, dump it out on a clean work surface. Using the heel of your hand, schmear the dough straight forward and roll it back with your fingertips. Repeat this process 1 to 2 more times, dust with flour if needed. Form the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Meyer Lemon Curd Tart

On a generously-floured work surface, roll the dough out to 1/8 to 1/4-inch in thickness. Lay the dough in the tart pan. Push the dough into the sides of the tart pan using well-floured fingers. Roll over the top edge of the tart pan with the rolling pin to cut the extra dough from the pan and create a crisp edge.

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