Jul 2012

L’Astrance – Paris

L'Astrance - Paris

The Astronomer turned 28 years young while in Paris, so we celebrated in high style at L’Astrance. Pascal Barbot and Christophe Rohat opened the restaurant in 2000 after leaving their posts as sous chef and front-of-the-house manager, respectively, at Alain Passard’s l’Arpège. L’Astrance earned its first Michelin star within five months of opening; the second star was awarded a year later and the third in 2007.

Three-star establishments are something of a mixed bag for me. While the food is generally memorable, service can be stiff to the point of unpleasantness. Fortunately, our experience at L’Astrance was not marred by suited gents too serious for their own good. Our amiable British waiter had a way about him that put us at ease and allowed us to focus squarely on the food. After all, that’s what we in came for.

L'Astrance - Paris

Traditional menus do not exist at L’Astrance. Instead, diners choose the number of courses desired, and Chef whips up whimsical dishes using the season’s best. The three-course menu déjeuner is priced at €70, the five-course menu été is priced at €120, and the seven-course menu Astrance is €210. We chose the five-course option. By the way, only the seven-course menu Astrance is available during the dinner seating.

L'Astrance - Paris

Champagne was in order since we were celebrating The Astronomer’s birthday and our first truly fancy Parisian feast.

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Jul 2012

Le Bistrot Paul Bert – Paris

Le Bistro Paul Bert - Paris

Le Bistrot Paul Bert cooks up the classics simply and brilliantly on a quiet residential stretch in the 11th arrondissement. Bertrand Auboyneau, along with Chef Thierry Laurent, opened the bistro in 2000, and together they have created a dining room that’s loved by locals and buzzed about by visitors.

Le Bistro Paul Bert - Paris

We arrived at Paul Bert ready to refuel after a long day of sightseeing. The Astronomer’s cousins who reside in Paris, Olivier and Francois, met us here for dinner.

Le Bistro Paul Bert - Paris

Even though we had encountered a portable slate board menu earlier at Le Beurre Noisette, The Astronomer and I still got a kick out of seeing the clunky thing on our dinner table. The day’s offerings were scrawled on the board, and nearly everyone ordered the €36 set menu that included a starter, main course, and cheese or dessert. Since the restaurant’s famous steak wasn’t included in the formule, we ordered it a la carte.

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Jul 2012

Le Beurre Noisette – Paris

Le Beurre Noisette - Paris, France

The amount of information online and in print about where to eat in Paris, the most visited city in the world, is absolutely dizzying. As much as I enjoy researching where to find the choicest morsels (it’s one of my favorite sports), I get overwhelmed and unfocused when there’s too much information to process. In situations like these, there’s nothing I appreciate more than a like-minded food lover telling me exactly where to eat. Thanks to my friends Steve, Stephane, and Roy, and the book Hungry for Paris by Alexander Lobrano, planning my Paris eating itinerary came together without fuss or flops. It is my hope that these write-ups will save fellow travelers the headache of planning out the perfect Parisian meals.

The Astronomer, my mom, and I met up with The Astronomer’s great aunt and Paris resident Paulette for lunch at Le Beurre Noisette on our first full day in Paris. This lovely bistro, whose name literally means “hazelnut butter” or “brown butter,” came highly recommended by Stephane. I’ve yet to encounter a more delicious name for a restaurant in all my years of eating.

Le Beurre Noisette - Paris, France

Chef Thierry Blanqui opened Le Beurre Noisette in 2001 after honing his culinary skills and style at some of the city’s best restaurants including The Ritz, La Tour d’Argent, and Le Doyen. Here in the 15th arrondissement, Chef serves up delightful plates inspired by the season’s bounty at beyond reasonable prices.

The day’s menu was scrawled on a portable slate board that was brought to our table at the start of the meal and removed as soon as we placed our order. Two set menu options were available including a starter and a main course for €22 or a starter, main course, and dessert for €30.  Anticipating a packed eating itinerary in the  days to follow, we felt that three dishes per person might be a bit much and decided to order a la carte.  It would be one of the few instances on the trip that we turned down the considerable bargain offered by the set menus.

Le Beurre Noisette - Paris, France

The French table isn’t complete without a basket of extraordinary bread.

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