Feb 2010

Coni’Seafood – Los Angeles (Inglewood)

Tacolandia Preview: Coni'Seafood

Whether it’s kept in a well-worn Moleskine notebook, a meticulous Excel spreadsheet, or simply in one’s mind, every serious eater has a “To Eat” list. Mine is currently 47 items long and resides in the drafts folder of my email inbox. Every time I come across a noodle house or a bakery that piques my interest, it gets added to the document. Since my capacity for reading about food far exceeds my ability to eat it, I’ve come to realize that I’ll never get around to sampling everything. Nevertheless, it will be very fun to try.

Mariscos Chente has been on my list for almost a year. It was added right after I wiped up the drool that resulted from reading Dylan’s write up on his blog Eat Drink & Be Merry. Any place that’s dubbed a “shrimp morgue” definitely deserves a visit.

MARISCOS CHENTE

The Astronomer and I, along with our friends Bill (Street Gourmet LA) and Fiona (Gourmet Pigs), met up for lunch at Mariscos Chente a few weekends back. The informal room was filled mostly with locals when we arrived. There was also a  trickle of folks from outside the neighborhood who may have learned about the place from C. Thi Nguyen‘s glowing review in the Los Angeles Times or from Jonathan Gold‘s praise in the LA Weekly. Or perhaps, like me, they’ve been scrounging the food blogs.

MARISCOS CHENTE

Mariscos Chente was started over 20 years ago out of a home in Hawthorne. The Mar Vista location opened early last year. Similar to the earlier incarnations, its menu is devoted to seafood from the Mexican states of Nayarit and Sinaloa. Sergio Penuelas, a native of Sinaloa, runs the kitchen while his wife Angie, a native of Nayarit, takes care of customers in the dining room. All of the restaurant’s recipes are from Angie’s father Vicente, or “Chente” as his friends were fond of calling him.

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Feb 2010

Dim Sum Truck – Los Angeles

DIM SUM TRUCK

Fellow street food lovers: Meet the Dim Sum Truck. It’s the newest (and steamiest) meals-on-wheels venture to grace our fair city. The truck’s official debut is still a few days away, but The Astronomer I were fortunate enough to attend a sneak peek at the T-Lofts in West Los Angeles this weekend. I have a feeling that this truck is going to be mobbed once it hits the street, so it was quite a treat to scope it out before the hoards queued up.

DIM SUM TRUCK

The guy behind the wheel is Alex Chu, a USC grad (’09) with an entrepreneurial spirit, chill demeanor, and  megawatt smile (his dad’s a dentist). Prior to joining the pack of Twittering trucks, Mr. Chu interned at BLT Steak and worked as a server at Sino Restaurant in San Jose.

The Dim Sum Truck was the vision of one man, but it took a village to launch it successfully. To assist with recipe development and vendor contacts, Mr. Chu enlisted the help of family friends working in the restaurant business. To create the truck’s distinctive logo and modern style, he recruited his tech and design-savvy high school mates. The team effort resulted in a truck that’s not only pleasing to the eye, but pleasing to the palate as well.

DIM SUM TRUCK

We started the tasting with a trio of parcels—shu mai, har gow, and a chive and shrimp dumpling. Served straight from the steamers, each one was hot, fresh, and packed with the good stuff. What made this dim sum experience different from others was Mr. Chu’s secret sauce. Salty, garlicky, and even a little spicy, this condiment made the dumplings shine and the flavors pop. I didn’t miss the lack of soy sauce or chili oil one bit.

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Feb 2010

Pa-Ord Noodle – Los Angeles (Hollywood)

PA-ORD NOODLE

There are plenty of boat noodles to be had in Thaitown, but the return of Lawan Bhanduram, the original owner of Ord Noodle on Hollywood Boulevard, has created quite a stir. After selling her acclaimed restaurant in 2008, Ms. Bhanduram left East Hollywood for Panorama City, leaving Sapp Coffee Shop to rule the boat noodle roost. Now that Ord (Ms. Bhanduram’s Thai nickname) is back in her old stomping grounds, the title of L.A.’s best boat noodles is once again up for grabs.

PA-ORD NOODLE

The cozy noodle shack was packed with local Thais slurping with gusto when The Astronomer and I, along with our friend Shay, arrived. We grabbed three open seats beneath the gold framed, three foot tall glamour shot of the proprietress. A plaque beneath the portrait read, “I’m not bossy, I just have better ideas.” The tastefully appointed room indicated that this place was gonna be good. Wink wink.

PA-ORD NOODLE

Shay and I immediately ordered two tall glasses of Thai iced tea. The drink was creamy, sweet enough, and the perfect complement to Ord’s fiery foods.

PA-ORD NOODLE

The Astronomer requested that we begin with a green papaya salad, one of his favorite foods from our Bangkok travels. Dotted with toasted peanuts and salty dried shrimps, the salad was incredibly fresh and well-balanced between the herbs and acid. The medium spice level was hot enough to impart beads of sweat on our upper lips.

PA-ORD NOODLE

Ord’s famous boat noodles arrived next. The beef variety included thin slices of meat, squeaky meatballs, and my personal favorite, tender tripe. According to Austin Bush, an American expat residing in Thailand, kwaytiao reua or “boat noodles” are so called because they used to be sold from small boats along canals and rivers. These days, the dish is served from landlocked boats since most of Bangkok’s canals have been converted into streets.

The bowl of Ord’s boat noodles was everything I hoped it would be—intensely flavorful, slightly funky, and deeply satisfying. The dark brown broth, which contained a hefty splash of pig’s blood, was brimming with a melange of spices like cinnamon and clove. This noodle soup is the complete package.

PA-ORD NOODLE

The boat noodles were followed by pork sparerib noodles. Served with thin rice noodles, ground pork, and pork rinds, this clear-brothed soup packed a surprisingly powerful punch. Though not as in-your-face as its cousin the boat noodles, the sparerib noodles were definitely mighty fine.

PA-ORD NOODLE

At the suggestion of the lovely Ms. Barbara Hansen, we also ordered khao kanah mu grob, rice with Chinese broccoli, crispy pork, and a fried egg. The sweetly marinaded pork was just what we needed after two chili-laced soups and one very spicy salad. The abundance of garlic and the meat’s unique texture really made this dish fantastic.

Next stop, Sapp Coffee Shop.

Pa-Ord Noodle
5301 Sunset Boulevard, #8
Los Angeles, CA 90027
Phone: 323-461-3945