Feb 2010

Pa-Ord Noodle – Los Angeles (Hollywood)

PA-ORD NOODLE

There are plenty of boat noodles to be had in Thaitown, but the return of Lawan Bhanduram, the original owner of Ord Noodle on Hollywood Boulevard, has created quite a stir. After selling her acclaimed restaurant in 2008, Ms. Bhanduram left East Hollywood for Panorama City, leaving Sapp Coffee Shop to rule the boat noodle roost. Now that Ord (Ms. Bhanduram’s Thai nickname) is back in her old stomping grounds, the title of L.A.’s best boat noodles is once again up for grabs.

PA-ORD NOODLE

The cozy noodle shack was packed with local Thais slurping with gusto when The Astronomer and I, along with our friend Shay, arrived. We grabbed three open seats beneath the gold framed, three foot tall glamour shot of the proprietress. A plaque beneath the portrait read, “I’m not bossy, I just have better ideas.” The tastefully appointed room indicated that this place was gonna be good. Wink wink.

PA-ORD NOODLE

Shay and I immediately ordered two tall glasses of Thai iced tea. The drink was creamy, sweet enough, and the perfect complement to Ord’s fiery foods.

PA-ORD NOODLE

The Astronomer requested that we begin with a green papaya salad, one of his favorite foods from our Bangkok travels. Dotted with toasted peanuts and salty dried shrimps, the salad was incredibly fresh and well-balanced between the herbs and acid. The medium spice level was hot enough to impart beads of sweat on our upper lips.

PA-ORD NOODLE

Ord’s famous boat noodles arrived next. The beef variety included thin slices of meat, squeaky meatballs, and my personal favorite, tender tripe. According to Austin Bush, an American expat residing in Thailand, kwaytiao reua or “boat noodles” are so called because they used to be sold from small boats along canals and rivers. These days, the dish is served from landlocked boats since most of Bangkok’s canals have been converted into streets.

The bowl of Ord’s boat noodles was everything I hoped it would be—intensely flavorful, slightly funky, and deeply satisfying. The dark brown broth, which contained a hefty splash of pig’s blood, was brimming with a melange of spices like cinnamon and clove. This noodle soup is the complete package.

PA-ORD NOODLE

The boat noodles were followed by pork sparerib noodles. Served with thin rice noodles, ground pork, and pork rinds, this clear-brothed soup packed a surprisingly powerful punch. Though not as in-your-face as its cousin the boat noodles, the sparerib noodles were definitely mighty fine.

PA-ORD NOODLE

At the suggestion of the lovely Ms. Barbara Hansen, we also ordered khao kanah mu grob, rice with Chinese broccoli, crispy pork, and a fried egg. The sweetly marinaded pork was just what we needed after two chili-laced soups and one very spicy salad. The abundance of garlic and the meat’s unique texture really made this dish fantastic.

Next stop, Sapp Coffee Shop.

Pa-Ord Noodle
5301 Sunset Boulevard, #8
Los Angeles, CA 90027
Phone: 323-461-3945

Feb 2010

Amaro Bar at Osteria Mozza – Los Angeles

AMARO BAR AT OSTERIA MOZZA

While the recession hasn’t treated restaurants very kindly, it has rewarded those who like to dine out. With expense accounts shrinking and disposable incomes drying up too, restaurants are doing their darnedest to woo in penny-pinching eaters. Free glasses of wine, discounted meals, and appetizers on the house are a few of the tactics employed by eateries to weather the storm. Sometimes the deals being offered are so incredibly good (See: Blackboard Eats and Groupon) that I feel almost guilty taking advantage of them. Obviously, not guilty enough to stay home.

One of the best bang-for-your-buck deals in town is the $35 three-course menu at Osteria Mozza‘s Amaro Bar. My girl D takes a B turned me on to this special offer last September. Served Sunday through Thursday, the menu includes one item from Nancy Silverton’s Mozzarella Bar, one pasta, a dessert, and a glass of either Bastianich Friulano or La Mozza Morellino di Scansano.

AMARO BAR AT OSTERIA MOZZA

Since reservations aren’t taken for the Amaro Bar, The Astronomer and I strolled in at nearly half past eight on a Thursday evening. The restaurant was buzzing when we arrived, with boisterous and well dressed diners occupying every single seat and stool. We were seated after a forty-five minute wait, just as the maitre d predicted.

AMARO BAR AT OSTERIA MOZZA

Chilled glasses of Bastianich Friulano were definitely in order. I like wine from a box, I like wine with a fox—Mr. Bastianich’s wine was more than fine.

AMARO BAR AT OSTERIA MOZZA

All Osteria Mozza diners, even those looking for a discounted meal at the bar, are served toasted crostini smeared with fresh ricotta and topped with an olive tapenade, basil, and Tuscan olive oil to start. Crusty slices of La Brea Bakery bread are included too.

AMARO BAR AT OSTERIA MOZZA

My first official course was the burricotta with radicchio, spiced walnuts, honey, and fried rosemary ($15). The radicchio was too bitter for my tastes, so I ate it separately on the side. The combination of  honey, cheese, and candied walnuts may have been overly rich and sweet for some, but it was totally perfect for me. Fried rosemary rules.

AMARO BAR AT OSTERIA MOZZA

The Astronomer ordered the burrata with bacon, marinated escarole, and caramelized shallots ($15). He liked the flavors very much, but it didn’t bring on the fireworks like the burricotti with braised artichokes, pine nuts, currants, and mint pesto ($15) did on our previous visit.

AMARO BAR AT OSTERIA MOZZA

The Astronomer went with the tagliatelle with oxtail ragu ($19) for his main course. The handmade noodles were delicate and delectable, as was the savory stewed sauce that clung to them.

AMARO BAR AT OSTERIA MOZZA

My meat-stuffed agnolotti with butter and sage ($19) were so very rich and satisfying that I sighed after each bite. The fried sage was simply delightful, as it always is. The small portion proved to be a blessing; I have my limits when it comes to butter.

AMARO BAR AT OSTERIA MOZZA

For dessert, The Astronomer chose the fried-to-order Italian doughnuts—bombolini—with mountain huckleberry compote and vanilla gelato ($12). It provided the perfect finish for my doughnut-loving companion.

AMARO BAR AT OSTERIA MOZZA

I went with the apple borsellino with apple cider jelly gelato, whipped cream, candied apple slices, and caramel sauce ($11). The dessert was similar to a slice of pie a la mode, but far fancier and flakier. The paper thin slices of candied apples begged to be eaten with my fingers.

A down economy is much more bearable with delicious deals like this one around. Go grab a seat at the Amaro Bar, pronto.

Osteria Mozza
6602 Melrose Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90038
Phone: 323-297-0100

Feb 2010

Mozza 2 Go – Los Angeles

MOZZA 2 GO

Confronted with a 45 minute wait for two seats at Osteria Mozza‘s Amaro Bar, The Astronomer and I passed the time away the best way we knew how—stuffing our faces at Mozza2Go. Time ticks by infinitely faster over a couple of prime bites.

MOZZA 2 GO

Mozza2Go offers Pizzeria Mozza‘s greatest hits, like Nancy Silverton’s signature chopped salad, the swoon-inducing butterscotch budino, and the moreish-to-the-extreme fennel sausage pizza. There’s also a panoply of gourmet products on sale including fresh burrata, dried pastas, and an array of sauces. The entire menu is available for both delivery and pick-up.

MOZZA 2 GO

With a three-course dinner minutes away, we shared a single order of the chicken liver bruschette ($9) with capers, parsley, and guanciale. I’ve always been more of a gizzard girl when it comes to chicken bits, but I fell hard for this dish during a recent dinner at the Pizzeria. The deep, savory, and slightly metallic taste of the spread had my full attention at first bite.

The Astronomer and I dug into the trio of bruschette on the wooden bench outside the front door. We were pleased to find that the toast rounds were perfectly crisp and the guanciale was still glistening from the stove. The livers tasted as wonderful as we remembered, except their temps were a touch cooler. All in all, the bruschette were a fantastic snack to quell our hunger pangs while enduring such a lengthy wait.

Mozza 2 Go
6610 Melrose Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90038
Phone: 323-297-1130