Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Restaurant Review

08 Mar 2010

Church & State – Los Angeles (Downtown)

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There’s really no need for me to recount the wonderful dinner I had at Church & State last week. By now, every blogger, critic, and casual eater knows that the downtown bistro is a gem. And more importantly, the man who made the restaurant what it is today has one foot out the door. Like I said, there’s really no reason for me to write about this place again, except that I totally can’t help myself—Church & State is so incredibly good!

I sat down to a most satisfactory feast with The Astronomer, my mom, and D takes a B on the evening following Chef Walter Manzke’s announcement that he would be leaving the restaurant. We arrived right as the doors opened for dinner service. I usually don’t sup until the sun has fully set, but we had tickets to The Lake Show this evening, so it was imperative not to miss the opening tip-off (and the celebrity sightings).

To start, complimentary gougères for the entire table. The cheesy poofs were warm, light, and delectable.

Next, crusty baguettes, soft butter, and coarse sea salt arrived at the table. The simple spread was so satisfying that we inhaled it in mere minutes.

Our first starter was the Oreilles de Cochon—crispy pig’s ears with a Bearnaise sauce ($8). Unlike the chewy specimens I’ve sampled in the past, Chef Manzke’s ears were vein-less, gelatinous, and had a velvety finish. The thin batter coating the ears provided a crisp and salty complement to the unmistakable essence of ear.

The Escargots de Bourgogne, snails baked in garlic and parsley butter ($13), was as good as ever. After a lot of trial and error, I’ve come to the conclusion that the best way to consume these little vessels is to gingerly peel the puff pastry from the ramekin, dunk it with abandon into the hot and garlicky butter, then scoop the snail and butter-soaked pastry onto the spoon and into one’s mouth. It’s a lot of mass, but the flavors cannot be beat. Be sure to swipe the house baguette through the ramekin afterwards so as not to waste a drop of butter.

My favorite course of the evening was the Assiette de Charcuterie—a selection of artisan and housemade pâtés, terrines, and saucisson sec ($18). The nearly three-foot long plank was beautiful to behold and crazy-delicious to consume. The pork rillettes with prune confiture were rustic and delightful, as were the various duck, pork, and rabbit pates. The most memorable was the goose liver pate with chives and coarse salt. I drifted off to a very special place with each bite. Balancing out the richness were briny olives, cornichons, pickled vegetables, dijon mustard, and little radishes swiped with butter. Heaven on a plank.

After indulging in three appetizers and countless loaves of bread, we shared two entrees. The Astronomer picked the short ribs ($26), which were served with roasted carrots, mushrooms, pearl onions, and a heap of pureed potatoes. The meat was so tender that a plunge of the fork was all that was needed to tear off a hunk. This is comfort food at its best.

The seared duck breast with Brussels sprouts and candied kumquats ($24) was also expertly prepared. I loved how well the tart little fruits mingled with the duck’s natural juices.

With Church & State’s kitchen in flux, I was pleased to take in one final meal with Chef Manzke running the show. It’s uncertain what the future will hold for both the Chef and the restaurant. However, one thing is for sure—with Chef Manzke manning the stoves, Church & State is nothing short of spectacular.

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Church & State
1850 Industrial Street
Los Angeles, CA 90021
Phone: 213-405-1434

Now Closed

04 Mar 2010

Starry Kitchen – Los Angeles (Downtown)

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I, like countless others, intended to eat at Starry Kitchen when it was an underground supper club in North Hollywood. I, like countless others, kept procrastinating until it was too late. I, like countless others, now must lunch downtown in order to experience the culinary magic.

Walking through the doors of the new Starry Kitchen late last week, the first thing I noticed was Nguyen Tran’s smiling face. The line of worker bees was stretched almost out the door, and in the midst of it all was a cool, calm, and collected Nguyen explaining the drill and moving the crowd along. It’s this kind of genuine interaction and customer care that makes Starry Kitchen really special. That, and the interesting and fresh food that Nguyen’s wife Thi whips up in the kitchen.

Starry Kitchen, which is named after Thi’s favorite Hong Kong soap opera, is located in the courtyard of the California Plaza building. The place is only open for lunch at the moment, but Thi and Nguyen hope to extend service through dinner on Thursdays and Fridays in the future.

Whereas the NoHo crowd was mostly comprised of media-savvy mavens, the one downtown is made up of business-minded professionals. It’s been years since I’ve been a part of the rat race, so it was a treat to people gawk watch.

“Pick your protein, then pick your vessel,” stated the adorable chalkboard menu. Most lunch combos also include a side of something carb-related. The menu rotates each week, so I was stoked to drop in when both the beloved crispy tofu balls and the Vietnamese braised coconut pork were on offer.

The Astronomer ordered the Vietnamese braised coconut pork in a banh mi sandwich with a side of Korean japchae noodles ($7.50). The pork was shredded, moist, and heavy on ginger, while the bread was soft yet sturdy. The bevy of veggies inside were snappy and lightly pickled. The Astronomer thought that the sandwich was very tasty, but wouldn’t call it a proper banh mi due to the mild veggies. We both agreed that the pork could’ve used a heavy dose of fish sauce and plenty more chunks of blubbery fat—two essential components of the classic Vietnamese dish thit kho. The noodles were more than competent.

I ordered the crispy tofu balls in a wrap with a side of pineapple fried rice ($7.50). I wasn’t sure what to expect as I bit into the fluorescent green orb, but the flavors and textures were totally to my liking. Little kernels of corn provided a touch of sweetness and texture to the balls. The wrap and its various fresh and healthy components reminded me of the macrobiotic fare I downed at M Cafe de Chaya not too long ago. I loved the curry flavor of the pineapple fried rice.

I usually brown-bagged it during my days running in the Philadelphia rat race, but then again, my choices included the yawn-inducing Au Bon Pain and a local chain called Marathon Grill. If Starry Kitchen moved in or around my building, I’d jump on it.

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Starry Kitchen
350 South Grand Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90071
Phone: 213-617-3474

Restaurant Review

02 Mar 2010

Hodad’s – San Diego (Ocean Beach)

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I always feel like a fraud whenever I tell someone that I’m from San Diego. There’s a certain beach bum culture that pervades the city (and its stereotypes) that I’ve never taken part in. Sure, I rock the Roxy on occasion, but I’ve never lived by the ocean, owned a surfboard, or worshiped the sun. I’ve also never been especially laid back, which is an essential quality for every native.

During a recent trip to my hometown, I infiltrated the ranks of authentic San Diegans chowing down at Hodad’s, a little burger shack with a huge reputation (See: A Hamburger Today, CNN.com, Diners, Drive-ins and Dives). Locals and tourists alike line up outside this forty-year-old shop for hours on end, all for a taste of their impressive burgers.

Joining me for lunch was The Astronomer, my cousin Phil, his fiancee Tannia, and my mama. We were seated after enduring a 40-minute wait.

The menu at Hodad’s is straightforward—burgers, fries, onion rings, and milkshakes. For those who don’t do cow, there’s also tuna on wheat, grilled cheeses, veggie burgers, BLTs, and chicken sandwiches. My soon-to-be cousin-in-law ordered the chicken sandwich; the patty looked and tasted like it came off the Sysco truck. Be warned. Do cow.

Our party of five shared two baskets of onion rings ($4.25) that were crisp and properly seasoned. Deep-frying is an art form and Hodad’s has it down.

Everyone but Tannia ordered some variation of Hodad’s famous burgers. The Astronomer went for a single bacon cheeseburger ($6.25), while Phil ordered a single bacon hamburger ($6). My mom and I split a double bacon cheeseburger ($9.50), which arrived nestled in a plastic basket, neatly wrapped in butcher paper. The sesame seed bun stood agape, much like my mouth when I saw this thing.

Each burger was topped with slightly grilled onions, standard pickles, ketchup, mayonnaise, and mustard. Both beef patties were nicely seared and fully cooked through. The most unique component of the burger was the bacon. According to A Hamburger Today, Hodad’s boils their bacon in water, then fries it on the grill under an iron weight. The result is a mass of bacon that delivers a little smoked piggy in every bite.

After she polished off her half of the double bacon cheeseburger, my mother concluded that it certainly merited the extra long wait. Everyone at the table nodded in agreement. Hodad’s creation was everything a great burger should be—deliciously beefy, a little bit greasy, seriously messy, and totally satisfying. It wasn’t a cutting edge burger, just solidly good.

[By the way, a “hodad” is a non-surfer who spends time at beaches masquerading as a surfer. Also known as a poser.]

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Hodad’s
5010 Newport Avenue
San Diego, CA 92107
Phone: 619-224-4623