Did I travel to Las Vegas to eat at a Los Angeles institution? Kinda. And I’d do it again in a heartbeat, because as revered as the Spago in Beverly Hills is, the one in Las Vegas is plain better. Perched on a breezy balcony overlooking the Bellagio’s famous dancing fountains, a meal here is festive, fun, and fresh in a way that the original can’t beat. There are certainly perks to being the new kid on the block.
Auburn is the newish restaurant from Chef Eric Bost, a North Carolina native who spent the last decade in the kitchens of Alain Ducasse in Paris, Guy Savoy in Las Vegas and Singapore, and most recently, République in Los Angeles. Here in the former Hatfield’s space, he’s striking out on his own in stunning fashion.
The Astronomer and I came in for drinks and bar bites before catching the Death Cab For Cutie show at the Hollywood Bowl earlier this summer. While I would have preferred to sit down for a proper meal in the main dining room, our perfectly informal introduction to what is otherwise a pretty formal restaurant proved to be just as great.
To start, a “Green Banana” cocktail with mezcal and eucalyptus amaro for me ($19) and a Normandy cider for The Astronomer.
We ordered eight of the ten items on the bar menu this early evening. First up was a warm loaf of country bread served with luscious avocado butter ($9).
Bill Elwell has been plugging away on the flattop grill since he bought this Van Nuys burger stand in 1965. Regulars from the early days know it as Bill’s Hamburgers, while newer fans refer to it as Bill and Hiroko’s. The latter addition is a nod to Hiroko Wilcox, Bill’s lovely wife who helps him run the place.
Grab a seat at the L-shaped counter to watch the master at work—the best spots are the two stools closest to the grill. Patio seating away from the meat and grease is also available for those who prefer some solitude with their lunch.
With hamburgers, sandwiches, and hotdogs on hand, the menu is extensive for a two-man show but not overly so. Most everyone orders a burger.