Oct 2019

Auburn – Los Angeles

Auburn - Los Angeles

Auburn is the newish restaurant from Chef Eric Bost, a North Carolina native who spent the last decade in the kitchens of Alain Ducasse in Paris, Guy Savoy in Las Vegas and Singapore, and most recently, République in Los Angeles. Here in the former Hatfield’s space, he’s striking out on his own in stunning fashion.

Auburn - Los Angeles

The Astronomer and I came in for drinks and bar bites before catching the Death Cab For Cutie show at the Hollywood Bowl earlier this summer. While I would have preferred to sit down for a proper meal in the main dining room, our perfectly informal introduction to what is otherwise a pretty formal restaurant proved to be just as great.

To start, a “Green Banana” cocktail with mezcal and eucalyptus amaro for me ($19) and a Normandy cider for The Astronomer.

Auburn - Los Angeles

We ordered eight of the ten items on the bar menu this early evening. First up was a warm loaf of country bread served with luscious avocado butter ($9).

Auburn - Los Angeles

Next, a trio of Kusshi oysters topped with a seaweed-lemon granita ($12).

Auburn - Los Angeles

Paper-thin slices of Lady Edison country ham paired with pickled okra ($14) came next on the scene. The distinctly Southern preparation fit in just right with the spread somehow.

Auburn - Los Angeles

The dish that impressed most was the hiramasa belly with citrus fern, celery, purple radish, and figs ($16). The seared spears of yellowtail, meaty yet delicate, soaked up the flavors beautifully.

Auburn - Los Angeles

To add a little balance to our meal: a butterhead lettuce salad with a charred-onion buttermilk dressing, lemon balm, and shaved turnips ($16).

Auburn - Los Angeles

As a Christmas Tree Lane resident, I couldn’t resist ordering the Fir cocktail made with gin, dry vermouth, Douglas fir, and yuzu ($17).

Auburn - Los Angeles

The final two dishes arrived in tandem. There was charred eggplant with blistered long beans, abalone mushrooms, lardo, and toasted almonds ($14)…

Auburn - Los Angeles

…along with beef ribs with a black garlic glaze, puff grains, and torn herbs ($22). Beautifully charred and caramelized, the beef ribs were a treat to eat.

Auburn - Los Angeles

To finish, a delicate strawberry tartine served with a strawberry-whey granita and a geranium-infused cream ($14).

While Auburn’s multi-course tasting menu was too much of a time commitment with our evening plans, grabbing a seat at the bar provided a low-key introduction to Eric Bost’s superb cooking. The elegant yet approachable menu was just what the mood called for.

Auburn
6703 Melrose Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90038
Phone: 323-486-6703

One year ago: Hog Island Oyster Farm – Marshall
Two years ago: 
The Arthur J – Manhattan Beach
Three years ago: 
Slacker.
Four years ago:
 N/Naka – Los Angeles
Five year ago: {swoon} Grilled Cheese with Pastrami at The Hat
Six years ago: 
“Old Chengdu Traditional Dishes” at Dan Dan Tian Shui Mian – Chengdu
Seven years ago: Umami Burger – Pasadena
Eight years ago: Son of a Gun – Los Angeles
Nine years ago: Crest Cafe – San Diego (Hillcrest)
Ten years ago: Maple Bacon Biscuits
Eleven years ago: Phở Hòa- San Diego
Twelve years ago: Cơm Tấm – Broken Rice
Thirteen years ago: Jim ‘N Nick’s – Birmingham

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