Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Now Closed

27 Dec 2009

Cube – Los Angeles (West Hollywood)

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Since my mom and her friend David drove all the way from San Diego to show their support for the Eat My Blog charity bake sale, a restorative meal together was definitely in order. For convenience’s sake, we stayed in the WeHo vicinity and supped at Cube, a favorite among my food blogging comrades D takes a B and Dishing Up Delights.

Founded by Alex Palermo, Cube was originally a small pasta venture called Divine Pasta Company. As demand for the handmade noodles spread, the business evolved into a store specializing in artisan products including the company’s signature pastas and ravioli. The “marketplace” eventually grew into Cube, a cheese bar and full-service restaurant serving traditional Italian cooking with a strong Californian influence. These days, all three operations are run under one roof on La Brea Avenue.

After our party of four was seated, we were presented with lunch menus; since we were dining at the awkward hour of 4:30 PM, the kitchen had not yet transitioned to dinnertime offerings. The menu included panini in addition to Cube’s staple items formaggi e salumi, zuppe, insalate, antipasti, pizze, primi, secondi, and contorni.

Samples of Great Ocean Road Cheddar, a cow cheese from Australia, were presented on a square slate as we perused the menu.

We started off with three appetizers, all chosen by me—I love it when my dining companions give me full reign over their stomachs, allowing me to order whatever suits my fancy. The first to arrive was the burrata en carozza ($13) with charred tomatoes, Osaka mustard greens, and a wedge of fresh lemon. The battered and deep-fried burrata had a crust that reminded me of the Colonel’s original recipe and decadently oozy innards. I can’t say that battering and frying improved the natural deliciousness of the burrata, but it was a highly palatable experiment.

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Recipe

25 Dec 2009

Coconut Macaroons

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I pulled off something pretty sweet this holiday season. For the first time ever, I managed to cross everyone off of my gift list without ever stepping foot inside a mall. Food books of every sort arrived without fuss on my doorstep from Amazon.com, gorgeous artisanal chocolates and macarons were ordered from my friends at XT Patisserie, and home baked goods were churned out of my hard-working oven. I loved giving presents that were meaningful in some way and, most importantly, friggin’ tasty.

My mother received a batch of homemade coconut macaroons, her favorite cookie of all time. Compared to her two sugar-craving children, my mother’s sweet tooth is quite minimal. These macaroons are ultra-coconut-y and pleasingly chewy, with just the right amount of sweetness. I dipped a few of the macaroons in chocolate for a little extra pizazz. Best of all, I delivered the cookies in a Tupperware container that she had given me months ago. I don’t know about your mama, but mine loves receiving her precious Tupperwares back. Two gifts in one—that’s the way I roll.

5 cups (20 ounces) sweetened shredded coconut
6 large egg whites
1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces) sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon almond extract

Pulse the coconut in a food processor until fine, 1 to 4 pulses. [Some brands of coconut are finely shredded, pulse it just once or twice.] Process the egg whites, sugar, salt, and almond extract together in the food processor until light and foamy, about 15 seconds. Stir the egg mixture into the chopped coconut until combined. Wrap the bowl in plastic wrap and refrigerate until the mixture is thick, about 30 minutes.

Adjust the oven racks to the upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat the oven to 375 degrees. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper and grease the paper. Using wet hands, roll 1 tablespoon of the mixture at a time into balls and lay them on the prepared baking sheets, spaced about 1 inch apart.

Bake the macaroons until light golden brown, 13 to 15 minutes, switching and rotating the baking sheets halfway through baking. Let the macaroons cool completely on the baking sheets, before serving, about 1 hour.

For Chocolate-Dipped Macaroons

After the macaroons have cooled completely, melt 6 ounces of semisweet chocolate in the microwave, stirring often, 1 to 3 minutes. Dip each macaroon into the melted chocolate to coat, letting the excess drip back into the bowl, then lay it on a clean sheet of parchment paper. Let cool at room temperature until the chocolate is set, about 30 minutes.

Makes about 24 cookies.

Recipe from The America’s Test Kitchen Family Baking Book

Restaurant Review

22 Dec 2009

Taco Taskforce: Los Angeles’ Best Fish Taco

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In a city where taquerias can be found on nearly every corner, it is oftentimes impossible to distinguish one shack from the next. While the inverse relationship between cleanliness and deliciousness is usually a reliable guide, it is unfortunately not always accurate. Thus, the Taco Taskforce was born.

Comprised of Bill (Street Gourmet L.A.), Javier (The Glutster), Matt (Mattatouille), Josh (Food GPS), and yours truly, the mission of the Taco Taskforce is to seek out Los Angeles’ very best tacos and to share these findings with like-minded eaters. Some might call this little endeavor a poor excuse for gluttony, but we simply view it as a service to the community; eating bad Mexican food is a travesty that no Californian should ever endure. Iowans? Sure. But Angelenos? No way.

For the inaugural meeting of the Taco Taskforce, we sought to find Los Angeles’ best fish taco. The list of five potential candidates was curated by Bill, a veteran of the city’s taqueria scene. We scored each taco based on its key ingredient (i.e. fish), condiments, authenticity, overall flavor, and cooking soundness. Since I’m more of a qualitative thinker than a quantitative one, my assessments were mostly based on taste and the overall vibe I received from the shops. For the numeric breakdown, see Mr. GPS.

Beginning with the establishment that scored the fewest points, here are our findings:

#5 Taco Nazo – South El Monte

With six locations in the Los Angeles area, Taco Nazo was one of two local chains on our list. Tony and Telma Garcia have been making the “world’s best fish taco” since 1978.

The fish taco ($1.69) arrived dressed with shredded cabbage, crema, pico de gallo, and a roasted guero (blonde chili) on the side. Even though Taco Nazo finished in last place, it is important to note that the taco was not the least bit offensive. In fact, it was actually quite pleasant. Taken on its own, Taco Nazo makes a fine specimen. However, going up against the city’s best, Taco Nazo floundered in a few key areas. This taco lost major points with the Taskforce with its excessive batter to fish ratio, lackluster condiments, and missing seasonings on the fish (pollack) and batter.

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#4 Señor Fish No. 2 – Eagle Rock

If atmosphere were a category that the Taco Taskforce considered important, than Señor Fish would’ve finished stronger than fourth place. The outdoor patio here is one of the loveliest around. We placed our orders inside and received our grub while relaxing in the shady courtyard.

Ringing up at $2.50, Señor Fish’s taco was one the day’s priciest. The cod fish taco arrived tableside with a bevy of condiments piled atop including cabbage, crema, a chile de arbol salsa, tomatoes, and cilantro. The Taskforce was impressed with Señor Fish’s extensive salsa bar and the taco’s robust flavors. However, we were unsatisfied with its clumpy batter and messily applied fixins.

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#3 Best Fish Taco in Ensenada – Los Feliz

There’s a lot to love about Best Fish Taco in Ensenada. Its concise menu (fish taco, shrimp taco, and drink) is straight up fabulous, and all of the food is made right in front of the customers. Public deep-frying is a mesmerizing sport.

At Best Fish Taco in Ensenada, the tacos ($1.50) were presented completely bare—just like in Baja. Each of us customized our basa (farm raised catfish) taco to our liking with the selection of salsas and vegetables on hand. Mine included La Crema Magica, shredded cabbage, and a bit of Pineapple Kiss salsa. This taco scored big points in the authenticity category. However, Bill proclaimed the bevy of unorthodox salsas “silly.”

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#2 Tacos Baja Ensenada – East Los Angeles

Tacos Baja Ensenada is a 10-year-old establishment located in the heart of East L.A. The narrow little shop was full of locals enjoying various Mexican seafood preparations when the Taskforce stopped in.

The catfish taco ($1.59) came slathered in house-made crema, diced tomato, hot sauce, and cabbage. From the ratio of batter to fish to the seasonings and condiments employed, the Taskforce was all around very pleased with Tacos Baja Ensenada’s solid product.

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#1 Ricky’s Fish Tacos – Silver Lake

The blogosphere and Twitterverse have fallen head over heels for Ricky’s Fish Tacos. Ricky sets up his little stand on Silver Lake’s Sunset Junction on Saturday and Sunday afternoons (weather permitting). He was the sole street food vendor on our fish taco tour.

Ricky’s fish taco ($2.50) was completely delightful, especially since it was served with a killer smile. Ricky takes care of the toppings (crema, cabbage, salsa) because the hot oil is a little too close to the condiments for his comfort. The deeply seasoned batter and tiny dice of jalapenos in the salsa really made this fish taco stand out among the competition. I find it kind of perfect that a street food vendor makes Los Angeles’s best fish taco.

Next up: Birria (goat) tacos!

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