Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Restaurant Review

19 Jan 2010

La Grande Orange Cafe – Pasadena

Filed Under:

When The Astronomer and I first set out to find a suitable restaurant for our wedding rehearsal dinner, the only requirement was that the space needed to be nice enough for me to wear a super-cute dress. Of course, the food had to be good too, but that was a secondary matter. I was dead set on wearing a spectacular frock to the show and no one was going to stop me. After all, I am the bride.

We initially toyed with the idea of serving seven courses of beef and even briefly considered a mobile food cart gathering featuring Ricky’s fish tacos and the Cool Haus truck, but when it came down to it, these venues were too informal for the get-up I had in mind. So, back to the drawing board (or more accurately, bridal message boards) we went.

When Josh of FoodGPS heard that we were on the lookout for a slightly upscale joint that could fit and feed 75 guests, he pointed us to La Grande Orange Cafe in Pasadena. After failing for months to find a space that fit all of our rehearsal dinner needs, we were hoping that this place would be it.

La Grande Orange is located in the historic Santa Fe Depot, which was built in 1935 for the Santa Fe Railroad. The abandoned building was refurbished in 2008 by the restaurant. The Astronomer and I had a good feeling about the space as we strolled through the main dining room and bar area, but it was the idyllic patio out back that convinced us that La Grande Orange was the rehearsal dinner venue of our dreams.

The space was just the right size and the vibe was perfectly Californian. What sealed the deal for me were the whimsical strands of lights hanging high above our heads and the abundant number of heat lamps spread throughout the patio. I could already picture how great the space would look and perform once the sun went down.

Even though we were stoked about La Grande Orange’s patio, we couldn’t choose it in good conscience without first sampling the food. The Astronomer and I, along with our friend Sharon, dined here for lunch to make sure that the restaurant’s offerings were on par with the space we loved so much.

We started off with a small order of the restaurant’s famous deviled eggs ($4), which arrived nestled in a wooden slate. The tangy yolks were piled high with plenty of bacon bits. The gently boiled whites melded perfectly with the cloud of yolks.

The handmade spätzle ($3) with mushrooms, asparagus, and spinach was a great combination of starchy carbohydrates and market fresh vegetables. The salty gratings of Parmesan cheese tied both elements together beautifully.

The brussels sprout salad ($13) with aged manchego, dried berries, smoked almonds, bacon, and honey mustard vinaigrette was a dream. The slightly blanched leaves were tender and delicate, creating a totally unique brussels sprout experience. The little blueberries provided a bit of pop with each bite.

The Green Chili Burger ($12) with wood-fired poblano chili, grated cheddar, and chipotle aïoli was served on a house-made English muffin. Among the circus of fixins, the high-quality meat stood out front and center, along with the toasted and buttery English muffin that held everything together. The side of fries were dusted in moreish barbecue seasonings that had us totally addicted.

The Astronomer and Sharon both really enjoyed the short rib tacos ($15) with pico de gallo, made-to-order corn tortillas, basmati rice, black beans, and charred tomato salsa. I was too focused on the burger to be pulled away.

Lastly, we shared a slice of olive oil cake ($8) with lemon sorbet and mixed berries. The generous slice of cake had a delicate crumb and a golden crust, while the flavors were subtle but wholly appealing. I wasn’t expecting much based on its appearance, but the olive oil cake really surprised me with its understated sweetness.

Now, that we’ve found our rehearsal dinner spot, I need to go shopping for a rockin’ dress to wear to it.

—

La Grande Orange Cafe
260 S Raymond Avenue
Pasadena, CA 91105
Phone: 626-356-4444

Recipe

16 Jan 2010

Pasta e Fagioli

Filed Under:

20 Comments

With the wedding only three months away, nearly every free minute has been devoted to making the Astronomer-Gastronomer union something kinda spectacular. From hunting down bridesmaid dresses in the perfect shade of yellow to debating the merits of individual cupcakes versus traditional tiers, finalizing every detail of our nuptials has taken over our lives and thankfully, only some of our sanity.

While I used to devote serious effort into our suppers, during these hectic times, simple and hearty soups like this Pasta e Fagioli have become a household staple. There are many things to love about this one-pot wonder. Logistically speaking, it takes just under an hour to prepare and lasts for days and days—not having to think about what’s for lunch or dinner is a dream. Nutritionally speaking, every major food group is covered, from carbohydrates to vegetables and protein. Pasta e Fagioli is the gift that keeps on giving.

4 slices bacon, chopped medium
1 onion, chopped fine
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 zucchini, diced
1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes
2 15.5-ounce cans cannellini beans, rinsed
3 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 1/2 cups water
Salt
1 3/4 cups orzo
1/3 cup minced fresh parsley
Pepper
1 cup Parmesean cheese, grated
Extra virgin olive oil (for serving)

Cook the bacon in a large Dutch oven over medium heat until crisp, about 8 minutes.

Stir in the onion, zucchini, garlic, oregano, and red pepper flakes. Cook until the onion and zucchini are softened, about 7 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes with their juice, beans, broth, water, and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes.

Stir in the pasta and cook until just slightly underdone.

Off the heat, stir in the parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle individual bowls with grated Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil before serving.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Recipe from The America’s Test Kitchen Family Cookbook

Restaurant Review

15 Jan 2010

Pitfire Pizza – Los Angeles (Culver City)

Filed Under:

16 Comments

Sitting in rush hour traffic on the 110 freeway this evening, I had second thoughts about trekking from Pasadena all the way to Culver City on a weeknight for the soft opening of Pitfire Pizza. Sure, I had read and heard fantastic things about their pies, but as the minutes ticked on by, I began to wonder whether it was worth braving such horrific traffic.

Thankfully, my mood was instantly lifted the moment I stepped into the local chain’s latest outlet. Even with most of the walls still covered in plywood, the restaurant’s upbeat vibe could not be denied—the fire-engine red pizza oven lit up the room and revitalized my weary spirit.

Paul Hibler and David Sanfield, two veteran Hollywood caterers, opened the original Pitfire Pizza in North Hollywood in 1997. Since then, the market-driven pizzeria has expanded its reach to Downtown, West Los Angeles, and most recently, Culver City. Chef Andy Lopez heads up the kitchen at the newest branch, while Lawrence Rudolph mans the front of the house.

Architect Barbara Bestor transformed the former Shakey’s Pizza Parlor into a modern and comfortable space with an industrial-chic feel. I was excited to scope out the restaurant’s olive grove and garden, which is located near the front entrance, but the moonlight wasn’t bright enough this evening. With access to herbs and tomatoes steps away from the kitchen, it is clear that Pitfire is committed to freshness and seasonality.

According to FoodGPS, the bright red Mugnaini oven burns a combination of red oak and fruity woods like apple and cherry. As a result, a unique essence is imparted into each pizza creation.

By the time The Astronomer and I arrived on the Pitfire scene, our friends Sook and D Takes a B were already noshing on their third servings of roasted vegetables and sixth slices of pizza. We quickly grabbed some plates and started piling on the goodness.

Pitfire’s pizza is a cross between Neapolitan- and New York-style. I started off with a slice of the Margherita ($9.50), a true test of any pizzeria’s chops. My slice contained an oozy hunk of fresh mozzarella, a gentle smear of tangy tomato sauce, a bit of torn basil, and a drizzle of olive oil. The mellow, thin, and pleasantly charred crust allowed all of the top-notch toppings to shine.

The Astronomer’s favorite pizza of the evening was The Burrata Pie ($9.95) with burrata cheese, tomato sauce, wild arugula, caramelized onion, hazelnut, and pesto drizzle. The combination of rich, gooey cheese and snappy, spicy arugula proved too tempting for my dear boy to resist.

Another winning pizza was the pepperoni ($9.75) with tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, and basil. Think: margherita but with a meatier and more savory kick.

My favorite of the evening’s selection was the Field Mushrooms pizza ($9.95) with fontina cheese, creme friache, mushroom jus, and flat leaf parsley. The balance between the decadent cheese and earthy mushrooms was just about perfect.

Finally, we topped off our pizza feast with chunky chocolate cookies. Made in-house twice daily, these jumbo cookies had everyone, especially Diana and Sook, swooning and smiling. Note to self: Grated semi-sweet chocolate performs worlds better than ordinary chips when it comes to cookies.

Pitfire Culver City will officially open in about two weeks.

—

Pitfire Artisan Pizza
12924 West Washington Boulevard
Culver City, CA 90066
Phone: 424-835-4088