Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Restaurant Review

06 Jan 2010

Waffle House – Anniston

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The Astronomer and I spent a lovely week down in Alabama during the recent holidays. Aside from baking twelve-layer cakes and sipping liquid nitrogen milkshakes, we also ventured east of Birmingham on an overnight bike trip with the entire family. Although we had planned to ride thirty miles along the Chief Ladiga Trail, twelve ended up being more than enough with temperatures barely in the forties. Before departing for home the following morning, we hit up Waffle House for a hearty Southern breakfast.

Waffle House has been a beloved icon of the South for the past 51 years. There are more than 1,500 locations in 25 states. Each branch of Waffle House is open 24 hours a day and 365 days a year.

Almost every one of Waffle House’s outlets is outfitted with a jukebox that plays 45 rpm singles. At this location, the entire first column of selections and much of the second had songs about Waffle House and its food. Amazing.

Waffle House fancies itself as a sit-down restaurant that is as fast and efficient as a drive-thru. According to the company’s website, “all food is prepared fresh, cooked to order, and served on real china in a kitchen that is out front and in full view.” The Astronomer tries not to watch the ladies behind the counter because their sanitary practices aren’t always pristine. I love how Waffle House refers to its plates as “real china.”

I ordered a single waffle with a side of bacon and was pleased with my selection. The waffle was expertly made—crisp, golden, slightly sweet, and moist where it counted. A canister filled with maple-flavored high-fructose corn syrup was available for drenching, but I preferred to eat it au naturale. Buttermilk waffles were also on offer, but according to The Astronomer’s mother and sister who ordered them, the regular ones were far superior.

The three thin strips of bacon that arrived alongside my waffle were fried to a flattened crisp. Each bite resulted in a snappy, porky shard.

The Astronomer ordered his standby—a double waffle, straight up. Small plastic containers of Pride “buttery” spread accompanied each one. Whereas the texture of my waffle was firm yet moist, The Astronomer’s was mostly limp. During The Astronomer’s past two visits to Waffle House, his waffles have been undercooked. It’s a shame that inconsistency plagues such a charming establishment.

To round out our breakfast of champions, The Astronomer and I shared a warm bowl of grits. Its creamy consistency, slightly coarse texture, and mild flavor was an ideal complement to my waffles and bacon. A pat of real butter would’ve made it even better.

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Waffle House
1530 Quintard Avenue
Anniston, AL 36201
Phone: 256-237-8961

Now Closed

04 Jan 2010

Naga Naga Ramen – Pasadena

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I was stoked this past summer when Brigham Yen reported that a ramenya was arriving in Old Pasadena. Even though I love to hate on my resident city’s dining scene, I’m always hopeful that solid independent eateries will eventually take over the awful chain restaurants crowding the neighborhood. I intended to dine at Naga Naga Ramen during the early days following its grand opening, but after reading some lackluster reviews, I quickly lost interest in noodling in my ‘hood.

My friend and fellow Pasadena resident Laurie recently made a good case for giving Naga Naga a go. She and her husband had dined there one evening and found the offerings not only palatable, but worthy of raves and daydreams. Laurie’s enthusiasm convinced my skeptical and hesitant self that Naga Naga was worth investigating, so The Astronomer and I met up with her before the holiday rush to slurp our hearts out.

Naga Naga is owned by John Mekpongsatorn, a Thai-American who was born and raised in North Hollywood and currently resides in Monterey Park. In addition to two Naga Naga outlets, Mr. Mekpongsatorn is also the owner of Noodle World, a local chain serving a hodgepodge of Asian noodle dishes.

According to the restaurant’s website, “Naga Naga” is slang derived from the Japanese word nagai, meaning long. It is believed in many Asian cultures that eating long noodles symbolizes having a long life.

The vibe at Naga Naga is clean, colorful, and modern. Each table is outfitted with a jar of pickled ginger, a shaker of white pepper, two types of soy sauces, S&B chili pepper, and La-Yu chili oil.

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Recipe

01 Jan 2010

Alabama Chocolate Little Layer Cake

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After reading Kim Severson’s fascinating piece on sky-high Alabama layer cakes in the New York Times, I knew I had to get my hands on one while down South for the holidays. Originally, The Astronomer and I had planned on purchasing one of these coveted monstrosities at the local Piggly Wiggly, but we were encouraged by The Astronomer’s mother to make one from scratch—she’s a do-it-yourself kinda gal. I’m always up for a baking challenge, but wasn’t sure my pastry skills were up to snuff. After all, the tallest cake I had made thus far only stacked two measly layers high. On the eve of 2010, The Astronomer and I fired up the oven, buttered a trio of cake pans, and threw caution to the wind—we were aiming for a dozen layers, and any fewer would not do!

The Chocolate Little Layer Cake turned out superbly. The cake was easily the lightest and fluffiest I’ve ever encountered, while the boiled chocolate frosting tasted like hot cocoa. The cake took about three hours to complete, but it was really quite fun to make from start to finish. Next time around, I’m aiming for fifteen layers! For a play-by-play of the entire process, check out the photo set on Flickr.

For the cake

2 sticks butter, more to grease pans
2 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1/3 cup shortening
5 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla
5 cups cake flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking soda
5 teaspoons baking powder
2 cups 2% milk

For the frosting

5 cups granulated sugar
1/3 cup cocoa powder
1 stick butter, cut into pieces
1 15-ounce can evaporated milk
1/2 cup whole milk
2 teaspoons vanilla

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Grease three 9-inch cake pans and line with rounds of parchment or waxed paper.

In a mixer or by hand, cream together butter, sugar and shortening until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Beat in eggs one at a time and continue to mix on medium until eggs are well incorporated. Stir in vanilla.

Sift flour, then add salt, baking soda and baking powder. Sift a second time. With mixer on low, alternately add flour mixture and milk in about 4 additions, then increase speed to medium. Beat until smooth, about 4 to 5 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl.

Spread 3/4 cup batter in each pan. Even out the batter using the back of a spoon. Bake 6 to 8 minutes, or until cake springs lightly when pressed with a finger. Flip cake out of pan onto paper towels or cake rack while still very warm. Repeat with second, third, and fourth set of layers. The parchment paper can be reused, but wash or scrape the sides of the pans so that no old batter remains.

When first layers go into oven, start to make icing. Put sugar and cocoa in a deep, heavy-bottomed saucepan and mix well. Turn heat to medium-high and add butter and milks, bringing to a boil. Boil for about 4 minutes, stirring continually, careful to watch that it does not boil over. Lower heat to simmer, add vanilla and stir occasionally for another 7 to 10 minutes. If using a candy thermometer, cook to the point just before soft ball stage or about 230 degrees.

Begin icing first layers as soon as frosting is ready. Flip layers over so that top side faces up. Use about 4 tablespoons of icing per layer. Icing will be thin but will firm up as it cools. Stack layers, then continue icing and stacking as layers are baked.

When all layers are iced and stacked, glaze top and sides of cake. Contours of layers will be visible through icing. If icing hardens too much while frosting cake, set back on low heat and stir until it is spreadable.

Adapted from Martha Meadows of Slocomb, Alabama.