Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

11 Jan 2010

Continental Airlines

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It’s been years since a warm meal has been set before me while flying coach in America’s friendly skies. Ever since domestic airlines eliminated hot food service in order to cut back on costs, bags of peanuts, pretzels, and crackers have been all I’ve had to look forward to during long hauls from coast to coast. Even though American mile-high meals were never nearly as tasty as their Asian counterparts, it was kind of nice having a dried-out turkey sandwich to nosh on while digging into the latest Sky Mall.

The Astronomer and I prepared for the impending food drought on our recent flight home from Alabama by picking up a three-item combo from Panda Express. We were hoping that the hefty Styrofoam box filled with greasy goodness would provide enough sustenance to get us back to the West Coast without any hunger pangs. Little did we know that while we were scarfing down fried rice, Beijing beef, and orange chicken next to our gate, in-flight dinners were being loaded onto our plane.

I was utterly shocked when a tray of food was given to me by the flight attendant during the first hour of our flight. Even though I was stuffed full of Chinese food, I was inexplicably excited to sample Continental Airline’s offerings. Well, at least some of them.

The anemic iceberg salad and its accompanying Caesar dressing were quickly passed on to The Astronomer. The leaves were a sickly pale green and the dressing contained too may foreign ingredients. The main course, “Aldo’s Gourmet Chicken Enchilada Wrap,” was served hot and steamy. I removed the enchilada from its plastic bag and laid it to rest upon a napkin to allow the excess moisture to evaporate. After the tortilla had regained its texture, I dug in.

The wrap tasted no better or worse than a frozen burrito. The exterior was thick and chewy, while the innards were mostly cheesy. The packet of Cholula hot sauce was essential for spicing up the package. Although it wasn’t great, Aldo’s Gourmet Chicken Enchilada Wrap sure beat the usual spread of peanuts, pretzels, and crackers.

For dessert, a snack-size serving of a Kit Kat bar. Thanks for trying, Continental Airlines.

Restaurant Review

09 Jan 2010

Flip Burger Boutique – Birmingham

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Thanks to Chef Richard Blais, molecular gastronomy and fancy hamburgers, two of the restaurant world’s most exciting trends, can now be found down South. After the success of Blais’ original Flip Burger Boutique in Atlanta, a second location was opened in Birmingham late last year.

I initially found the idea of a burger “boutique” kind of laughable, but once I saw where it was located—within a mega suburban strip mall and next door to Juicy Couture and Gloss Premium Denim—it all made sense. Now, if this isn’t an agglomeration economy designed with the painfully hip and sassy in mind, I don’t know what is.

Chef Blais, who was the runner-up on season four of Top Chef, is trained in classic French cookery but likes to dabble in modern techniques as well. He has studied under culinary luminaries Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, Alice Waters, and Ferran Adria.

At Flip, the humble hamburger is transformed from a grease bomb into an edible work of art. “We only have two rules,” said Chef Blais in an interview with The Birmingham News. “One is that whatever we call a burger has to be ground. That doesn’t have to be beef. It can be another meat or it can be vegetable or it can be seafood. The other rule is it has to be served on a bun.” With chorizo, lamb, and crab sharing menu space with Wagyu beef, the restaurant fully lives up to its slogan “Fine Dining Between Two Buns.”

Designed by Atlanta-based architecture and design firm ai3, Flip’s dining room features communal seating and “padded cell” booths. The stylish layout and chic vibe reminded me of the Stephen Starr restaurants I used to frequent in Philadelphia.

The Astronomer, Rosalind (The Astronomer’s sister), Miho (The Astronomer’s high school friend), and I stopped in for lunch during Flip’s second week of operation. We were also joined briefly by Sara, a high school classmate of Rosalind, Miho, and The Astronomer, who is currently working in Flip’s kitchen.

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Recipe

07 Jan 2010

Frank Stitt’s Creamy Grits

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Trips down to Alabama always seem to inspire me to prepare Southern comfort foods upon my return. The last time I traveled to Birmingham, I came home with a killer hankering for old fashioned cornbread. This time around, I had creamy grits on the brain. Fortunately, I received a package of yellow stone-ground grits in my Christmas stocking! McEwen & Sons of Wilsonville manufacture The Astronomer’s mother’s favorite variety; their wares are available for purchase online.

I turned to Frank Stitt’s Southern Table for a proper grits recipe. The grits served at his temple of haute Southern cuisine, Highlands Bar & Grill, are creamy, impeccably seasoned, and pair well everything from shrimp to venison. For me, a sprinkling of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano was all that was required for some serious satisfaction.

4 cups water, preferably spring water
1 1/2 teaspoons Kosher salt
1 cup yellow stone-ground grits
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, or a little more if desired, at room temperature
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano cheese, plus more if desired
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
Hot sauce, such as Tabasco or Cholula

In a medium saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Add the salt, then whisk in the grits in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly to prevent clumps and thoroughly mix in the grits. Bring to a boil whisking, then turn the heat down to low and summer for 45 minutes to 1 hour, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon until the grits are thickened and tender.

Add the butter and Parmigiano, stirring to combine, and add the salt, white pepper, and hot sauce to taste. Taste and add more butter, cheese, and/or salt if desired. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings.

[For Printable Recipe Click Here]