Aug 2009

L'abricot – Tijuana

5 p.m. I’m this close to wrapping up Day 1 of the Baja culinary blitz! Just one French brasserie, a fancy pants Baja Med dinner, and we’re finally moving on to Day 2. It was a whirlwind of an adventure at the time, and reliving it again as I write has been spectacular. Tijuana really does offer much more than donkeys disguised as zebras and cheap shots of tequila on Revolucion.

Our penultimate stop of the day brought us to L’abricot, a French eatery run by Maribel Villareal Sosa. Chef Sosa honed her culinary chops in Paris at Le Cordon Bleu and Ritz Escoffier. L’abricot is a charming spot offering classic French dishes and pastries.

Even though we’d endured eight meals prior, the restaurant’s terrific display of sugary creations had our group gawking as we walked out to our al fresco table. If there’s one thing I learned on this trip, it’s that the mind and the stomach are oftentimes at odds.

Chef Sosa prepared three dainty bites, including a poached quail egg with a Dijon vinaigrette (left), crème brûlée (right, top), and French onion soup (right, bottom). I wasn’t expecting a particularly strong showing from a French brasserie located in the heart of Tijuana, but each of the dishes was deftly prepared. Underneath the French onion soup’s thick blanket of cheese lay a deep, rich broth with caramelized onions. The crème brûlée, with its teeny tiny black vanilla specks and perfectly candied top, had me sold. L’abricot is the real deal.

Chef Sosa already had the group eating out of her hands, but to further seal the deal, she brought out plates of linzer torte cookies. As every glutton knows, two desserts are better than one.

L’abricot
1910 Antonio Caso Boulevard, Zona Río
Tijuana, BC, Mexico
Phone: 664-634-0643

BAJA BITES: 2 Days, 3 Cities, 18 Meals
Introduction > 1 > 2 > 3 > 4 > 5 > 6 > 7 > 8 > 9 > 10 > 11 > 12 > 13 > 14 > 15 > 16 > 17 > 18

Aug 2009

Cien Años – Tijuana

4:20 p.m. Stop number seven on the Baja culinary blitz took our grossly over-fed group to Cien Años. The kitchen here is headed up by twenty-one-year-old Talia Nunes, who prepares Mexico City-style alta cocina using local ingredients. Cien Años’ philosophy is similar to La Diferencia, but with a greater emphasis on Baja flare and an absence of six-legged creatures on the menu.

It’s a crying shame that Cien Años was scheduled so late in the afternoon. By the time we walked through its colorfully appointed dining room, our bellies were full to the brim, while our minds were wiped-out from sensory overload.

Cien Años flight of light bites included nopales tostadas (left), octopus tostadas (right, top), and chili shrimp on crackers (right, bottom). H.C. and I were feeling so overwhelmed that we split each of these small botanas (snacks) in order to fit everything in.

Next, we were served a ceviche of salmon and mango in tortilla cups (left) and shooters of spicy almeja de chocolata (chocolate clam – right). Native to Mexico, the chocolate clam was undeniably fresh and had a texture so appealing that it made me forget that I was supposed to be sharing with H.C. The wonton chip was a curious, but ultimately fitting pairing.

The finale, a shredded smoked marlin salpicon, was plated with care, but we were sadly too stuffed to give it proper attention. On occasions like these, I wish I were blessed with four stomachs like a cow. Moo.

Cien Años
1407 Calle José María Velasco, Zona Río
Tijuana, BC, Mexico
Phone: 1-888-534-608

BAJA BITES: 2 Days, 3 Cities, 18 Meals
Introduction > 1 > 2 > 3 > 4 > 5 > 6 > 7 > 8 > 9 > 10 > 11 > 12 > 13 > 14 > 15 > 16 > 17 > 18

Aug 2009

Peach Crostata

As someone who has never baked a classic, flaky crusted pie, the idea of preparing a crostata was appealing because its perfection lays in its imperfection. Whereas dimply or cracked crusts are seen as major cosmetic flaws on a pie, when it comes to crostatas, they’re essential for achieving a perfectly rustic product. To further add to their accessibility, Crostatas are “free-form,” and thus don’t require any special baking dishes or fancy crimping methods. All one needs is a simple baking sheet and and a trusty rolling pin.

This recipe comes from Frank Stitt’s Southern Table, a gorgeous cookbook filled with stories and recipes from Highlands Bar & Grill—my all-time favorite restaurant in Birmingham, Alabama. The recipe yields enough dough for two crusts, even though the directions only calls for one. According to Mr. Stitt, “You can prepare the dough well in advance and even freeze it with no loss of quality.” I’m looking forward to calling upon my extra dough later this summer when the abundance of ripened fruit just begs to be made into another crostata.

For the dough

  • 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 1⁄4 cup sugar
  • 1 teaspoon Kosher salt
  • 1 1⁄4 sticks unsalted butter, cut into 1⁄2-inch cubes and chilled
  • 1⁄4 cup ice water

For the filling

  • 1⁄4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 1⁄4 cup sugar
  • 4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter
  • 2 pounds ripe peaches, pitted, peeled, and sliced into 3⁄4-inch-thick wedges
  • 1 large egg yolk, beaten with 1 teaspoon heavy cream for egg wash
  • 1 tablespoon coarse or granulated sugar for topping

Prepare the dough

Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse a few times to blend. Add the butter and pulse until it is the size of small peas, about 15 times. With the processor running, add the ice water and process for about 10 seconds; stop the processor before the dough comes together. Turn the dough out onto a sheet of waxed paper, divide the dough in half, and shape it into two disks. Wrap them in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. (The dough can be refrigerated for 2 days or frozen for up to 2 weeks; if it has been frozen, defrost the dough for 30 minutes at room temperature.)

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Roll one disk of dough into an 11-inch circle on a lightly floured surface. Transfer to a baking sheet. (Reserve the second disk of dough for another use.)

Prepare filling

Combine the flour and sugar in a small bowl. Blend in the butter with two knives until the mixture resembles coarse meal.

Place the peaches in the center of the dough circle on the baking sheet and top with the butter-sugar mixture. Begin draping the edges up and over, forming about 3 pleats. Crimp the pleats and press down to seal. Brush the pastry with the egg wash and sprinkle with the sugar.

Bake the tart for about 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool on a rack and serve slices with vanilla ice cream or crème anglaise.

Makes 6 servings.