Jul 2009

San Antonio Winery: ‘Wines from Down Under’ Australia & New Zealand Wine Tasting

Sometimes I feel like a fraud. I mean, what kind of self-proclaimed Gastronomer doesn’t embrace the drink of the gods wholeheartedly? It’s true that vino and I cross paths every so often, but truth be told, clever names and colorful labels intrigue me more than vintage years, and wine lists may as well be written in Russian because their contents are all very foreign to me.

When I received an invitation from San Antonio Winery to attend their “Wines from Down Under” seminar, I jumped at the chance to step up my gastronomical game. Spending an afternoon eating fine food while sipping wines from Down Under sounded like my kind of fun. Plus, I was certain I’d learn a thing or two.

When one thinks of California wines, the regions of Napa and Sonoma usually come to mind. Although it’s maddening to imagine, Los Angeles’ heavily industrialized downtown was once the epicenter of winemaking in The Golden State. San Antonio Winery was established in 1917 by Santo Cambianica, an Italian immigrant from Lombardy; he named the winery after Saint Anthony for good luck. San Antonio Winery is the last of the more than one hundred wineries that once lined the Los Angeles River Basin.

The midday event was led by Master Sommelier Elizabeth Schweitzer and featured seven wines of Aussie and Kiwi origin paired with five well-crafted dishes. Here’s the spread:

Appetizer—Barbecued shrimp with a mango pickle / Kono Sauvignon Blanc 2008.

First—Pan-seared Barramundi, green onion basamati rice, and tomato fondue with crispy onions / D’Arenberg “Hermit Crab” Viognier Marsanne 2008 and Ferngrove Semillion-Sauvignon Blanc 2006/07.

Second—Australian lamp chop with roasted sweet potatoes and stewed eggplants / D’Arenberg “Laughing Magpie” Shiraz Voignier 2007 and Penley “Phoenix” Cabernet Sauvignon 2006.

Cheese—Australian cheddar with sea biscuit crackers and fresh cherries / Ferngrove “Dragon” Shiraz 2005.

DessertLamington—chocolate dipped cake with shredded coconut, raspberry coulis, and bitter chocolate sauce / Wyndham Estate “Bin 555” Sparling Shiraz.

Even though San Antonio Winery houses a restaurant—Maddalena Restaurant—I wasn’t expecting a great showing in the food department. However, all it took was one bite of the succulent grilled shrimp to totally change my mind. The sweet and flaky Barrumundi and the bloody rare lamb chops were both expertly prepared as well. I really appreciated that the food was given as much thought as the wines.

Wine-wise, my favorites were the lovely whites with their crisp, fruity, light, and refreshing characteristics. The Australian “Hermit Crab” was a standout. I also sampled my first sparkling red wine, the “Bin 555,” which was full-bodied and strong. The Astronomer thought that the “Phoenix” Cabernet Sauvignon had essence of stinky tofu.

San Antonio Winery
737 Lamar Street
Los Angeles, CA 90031
Phone: 323-223-1401

San Antonio Winery on Urbanspoon

Jul 2009

101 Noodle Express – Alhambra

In spite of its billing, tangled heaps of slurp-worthy strands aren’t what it’s all about at 101 Noodle Express. A quick glance around the packed dining room makes it crystal clear that the beef rolls bring all the Northern Chinese bread food-seekers to the yard.

A Shandong classic, the hefty beef roll ($6.75) is comprised of a fried wheat pancake smeared with a hoisin-like bean paste and stuffed with fresh cilantro and thin cuts of beef. A single order includes two foot-long logs filled to the brim and sliced into manageable sections.

The flaky pancake was warm to the touch and substantial enough to keep the fixins in line. Unadorned, the beef roll tasted like a carne asada burrito with a bready exterior and no trace of guac. My dining companion thought it tasted like a deconstructed bowl of pho.

What really made the beef roll come alive were the two tableside condiments—a mixture of fresh chilies with cilantro and a chili infused oil. The container filled with the former was depleted by the time we were through.

It’s about time this restaurant drops the “101 noodle” gibberish and re-christens itself Beef Rolls Express.

101 Noodle Express
1408 East Valley Boulevard
Alhambra, CA 91801
Phone: 626-300-8654

Jul 2009

Cafe 100 – Hilo

Loco moco, a thoroughly Hawaiian delicacy comprised of white rice topped with a hamburger patty, a fried egg, and brown gravy, was invented in 1949 in the city of Hilo on The Big Island. There are many people who claim to have invented the dish, but it is generally agreed that Cafe 100 or the Lincoln Grill created the first one.

I felt sick to my stomach after my first brush with loco moco back in April, so it took nearly a week on the islands for me to get up the guts to give it a second go. When I found myself in Hilo after an excursion to the Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, I toughened up and paid Cafe 100 a visit.

Cafe 100, which owns the trademark for the term “loco moco,” dishes up over fifteen varieties, including ones made with “smokie” sausage and mahi mahi. Adorable hand-drawn posters that reminded me of projects from junior high advertised the most popular renditions. All of the loco mocos were priced between $1.99 and $5.25.

I went with the OG loco moco for a buck ninety-nine—brown rice, fried egg, hamburger patty, and gravy.

The weighty loco moco was packaged to-go in a plastic container. Both the plump grains of brown rice and the rubbery hamburger patty were swimming in a sea of gelatinous brown gravy. The gravy’s taste wasn’t offensive, just not nearly delicious enough to be drenched over everything. Come to think of it, I’m not sure there’s any sauce in this world that would taste pleasant ladled on in this excessive manner.

Although I’d love to say that loco moco on the motherland was ono to the max, it really wasn’t. It’s the end of the road for loco moco and me. It’s been real, brah.

Cafe 100
969 Kilauea Avenue
Hilo, HI 96720
Phone: 808-935-6368

Cafe 100 on Urbanspoon