Aug 2009

Cham Korean Bistro – Pasadena

Pasadena is a lovely place to call home, but I must admit that the dining options aren’t very inspiring. With the exception of Pie ‘n Burger and Euro Pane, restaurants within walking distance are mostly soulless chains—Chipotle, Panda Express, Corner Bakery, and the like. Even though I live and work in this city, I usually spend my dining dollars elsewhere to avoid mediocrity.

Cham Korean Bistro is a breath of fresh air and a welcome addition to the South Lake Avenue business district. The woman behind this stylish new eatery is Kimmy Song, CEO of !iT Jeans. After experiencing enormous success with her denim fashion line, Ms. Song sought a new challenge that would give back to the community. A portion of Cham’s profits will be donated to developing countries.

With Chef E.J. Jeong, formerly of BOA and A.O.C., heading up the kitchen, Cham cooks up fresh and healthful Korean food that is “globally inspired, yet true to its heritage.” At the tail end of last month, The Astronomer, Rosalind (The Astronomer’s lil’ sister), and I attended a low-key preview to sample Cham’s menu, offer our thoughts, and chat with Ms. Song.

We started off the tasting with a selection of tofu pockets ($1.50 each)—arugula with red radish, pickled seaweed, marinated fresh crab meat, and spicy tuna with pea shoots. Each of the pockets were stuffed with warm, slightly vinegary brown rice in addition to the specified filling. I am accustomed to eating sweet fried tofu skin a la inari sushi, so I was impressed by how tastily these unorthodox innards melded with it. The crab and spicy tuna were my two personal favorites, although the seaweed and arugula weren’t too far behind.

Whereas traditional bibimbap usually entails a hearty bowlful of rice, Cham’s version is more like a salad with a smattering of brown rice. The spicy tuna bibimbap ($10) in red pepper aioli was a little too true to its name; all three of us were reaching for our water glasses with each bite. Spiciness aside, the colorful selection of julienned vegetables were wonderfully fresh and beautifully presented.

Next, we tried the beef bulgogi Ssam Garden Platter ($11). According to the menu, ‘ssam’ means to “wrap and eat heartily” in Korean. The sizzling plate of thinly sliced beef arrived in a cast iron grill with a neat platter of butter lettuce, sesame leaves, cilantro, and cool bibim noodles on the side. We were instructed to make little parcels containing a bit of everything using the sturdy butter lettuce cups.

Korean barbecue, especially of the all-you-can-eat variety, has a sort of brash charm to it. Cham has managed to refine the art of tableside grilling without losing any bit of flavor.

My favorite dish of the afternoon were the crispy rice cakes with mushrooms, broccoli, and minced beef sauteed in a sweet soy sauce. The individually-made rice cakes had the most wonderful texture and pleasant chew—I’m a sucker for refined starches.

I left the tasting at Cham feeling giddy and excited. During our walk home, I thought to myself, “I’ve finally found an awesome dinner option that’s a stone’s throw away. Score!”

Cham Korean Bistro
851 Cordova Street
Pasadena, CA 91101
Phone: 626-792-2474

Cham Korean Bistro on Urbanspoon

Cham Korean Bistro in Los Angeles

Jul 2009

Goat Cheese and Olive Bread

GOAT CHEESE AND OLIVE BREAD

I’m currently making my way through The Sweet Life in Paris by acclaimed pastry wizard David Lebovitz. It’s an entertaining read as far a food memoirs go, but it’d probably be ten times funnier had I actually lived in Paris. No matter. A jaunt to the City of Lights is not essential for appreciating Parisian quirks and delights.

According to Mr. Lebovitz, zee French are crazy about savory quick breads. Known to locals as le cake (pronounced “kek”), they are served as an “hors d’oeuvre before dinner, thinly sliced, with glasses of cool Muscadet or a snappy Souvignon Blanc.” This Cake au Chèvre et aux Olives is appealing from top to bottom, inside and out—the edges are smoky with bacon essence, while the goat cheese and olive studded innards are rich and complex. A generous slice makes for an interesting and satisfying bite anytime of day, whether eaten before dinner as the Parisians do, or for le snack as Americans are so fond of.

  • Bacon fat (or butter) for preparing the pan
  • 1 1/2 cups flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon chili powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
  • 4 large eggs, room temperature
  • 1/4 cup very fruity olive oil (I recommend Greece’s Gaea brand)
  • 1/2 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
  • 1/4 cup scallions, chopped
  • 6 oz well-crumbled goat cheese
  • 2 oz grated Parmesan
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped pitted green or black olives

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-inch loaf pan with bacon grease or butter and line the bottom with a piece of parchment paper.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, chili powder, and salt.

GOAT CHEESE AND OLIVE BREAD

In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, olive oil, yogurt, and scallions until smooth.

GOAT CHEESE AND OLIVE BREAD

Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and use a rubber spatula to stir in the wet mixture, stirring just until the wet ingredients are almost incorporated. (A bit of flour should still be visible.) Don’t overmix.

GOAT CHEESE AND OLIVE BREAD

Fold in the goat cheese, Parmesan, and olives until everything is just moistened. Scrape the batter into the prepared loaf pan.

GOAT CHEESE AND OLIVE BREAD

Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, until the top is golden brown and the cake springs back when you gently touch the center. Let the cake cool for 5 minutes, then tilt it out onto a wire cooling rack. Peel off the parchment paper and let cool upright before slicing.

GOAT CHEESE AND OLIVE BREAD

[For Printable Recipe Click Here]

Jul 2009

Angeleno Magazine's 7th Annual Chefs Night Out

This past Sunday, Angeleno magazine’s food critic Brad A. Johnson teamed up with The Tasting Panel magazine’s editor Anthony Dias Blue to co-host the Annual Chefs Night Out and Restaurant Awards at The Fairmont Miramar Hotel and Bungalows in Santa Monica. The event honored the city’s top chefs and restaurateurs while celebrating the release of Angeleno’s annual restaurant issue. Proceeds from the event benefited the Children’s Institute, Inc., an organization dedicated to helping young people who have been affected by violence, abuse, and other trauma.

A week prior to the event, I received a generous invitation to the charity gala from the fine folks at Angeleno. After scanning the impressive list of restaurants slated to attend and learning more about the Children’s Institute, I quickly sent in my RSVP. One would have to be insane to turn down a feel-good evening with the talented likes of David Myers and Susan Feniger, right?

As the chefs and their brigades worked fervently to cook and plate signature dishes, the snazzily-dressed crowd gathered around the courtyard for the Restaurant Awards presentation. Highlights included Suzanne Tracht (Jar) and John Rivera Sedlar (Rivera) being presented with Chef of the Year honors, Melisse receiving Restaurant of the Year, and Church and State picking up Best New Restaurant. [A complete list of Restaurant Award winners after the jump.]

After the presentation, the eager crowd was unleashed upon the talented chefs and their gorgeous offerings. Katana in West Hollywood dished up tuna carpaccio with wasabi soy truffle oil, topped with sheets of Parmesan cheese, arugula, and diced avocado. The salty cheese paired surprisingly well with the tender fish.

Susan Feniger and Kajsa Alger were on hand to prepare one of Street‘s signature items—paani puri—crispy puffs stuffed with spiced potato, chutneys, and sprouted beans. I bumped into veteran Los Angeles Times food writer Barbara Hansen while noshing on my paani puri and we got to talkin’ about traveling and street food. According to the lovely Ms. Hansen, Street’s paani puri are identical to the ones she enjoyed in India.

Next, I paid a visit to Nine ThirtyW Hotel Westwood. Executive Chef Monique King prepared a roasted duck breast with summer peaches, black lentils, red onion relish, and house-made honey Tabasco glaze. The glaze had me going gaga, as did the duck. The perfectly ripe peaches were spectacular.

BLT Steak did not disappoint with their grilled hanger steak with shallot marmalade and baby tomato salad. The shallots, caramelized to the point of sticky sweetness, tasted fantastic with the juicy steak.

The most exciting bites of the evening came courtesy of Sona. Executive Chef David Meyers and Chef de Cuisine Kuniko Yagi prepared a sweet and cool Chino Farm corn soup with okra, mekabu seaweed, and tonburi, while Pastry Chef Ramon Perez assembled a wondrous caramelized white chocolate tart with cinnamon sable, apricot, and chanterelle ice cream.

Westside Tavern‘s Warren Schwartz and Brent Hammer kept it simple and satisfying with a lamb French dip prepared sous-vide. The brioche bun, creamy horseradish, and caramelized onions were delectable counterpoints to the moist lamb.

Executive Chef Evan Funke of Rustic Canyon cooked up goat cheese tortelloni with fresh mint. The pasta’s texture was spot-on, while the filling was generous and flavorful. The mint added a lovely touch of freshness.

Comme Ça‘s cured and confit‘d pork belly with pommery mustard apple sauce and savoy cabbage was my least favorite dish of the evening. I love the swine from snoot to tail, but this just tasted like a slab of un-nuanced fat.

Chef Steve Samson of Pizzeria Ortica paired a panzanella of Tuscan bread and tomatoes with oven-smoked cod. The hunk of fish was supple, but its flavors were too mild compared to the other chefs’ offerings. As a result, the dish couldn’t hold my attention.

Fig‘s Ray Garcia was the only chef to bust out offals for the event. His torta de lengua (tongue sandwich) was a hit among everyone in attendance. Of course, not everyone knew what they were eating.

Craft struck comfort food gold with their braised lamb ribs with heirloom tomatoes, black garlic, and mint vinaigrette. I’m not sure what Chef de Cuisine Anthony Zappola’ secret was, but the lamb tasted like candy with its charred and caramelized edges.

Taking advantage of summer’s bountiful produce, Spago‘s chef de cuisine Thomas Boyce prepared a sweet corn agnolotti with marscapone and Reggiano in a decadently buttery sauce. The taste and textures were outstanding, but the presentation was on the sloppy side.

Lastly, I savored mini-Kobe sliders on brioche from CUT. The tomato marmalade and sweet pickles balanced out the rich meat like a charm. I wholeheartedly embrace the slider trend.

Chefs Night Out provided an excellent opportunity to taste my way around town without leaving the comfort of the Fairmont. I came away from the event feeling extremely positive about our city’s fine dining scene. Sometimes its easy to forget just how lucky Los Angeles is to have such passionate chefs and visionary food.

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