Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Recipe

19 Apr 2009

Jim ‘N Nick’s Cheese Biscuits

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I’ve never been moved to recreate a dish that I tasted at a restaurant until I found this simple recipe for Jim ‘N Nick’s Cheese Biscuits. Based in Birmingham, AL, Jim ‘N Nick’s is one of the The Astronomer and my all-time favorite barbecue joints. Whenever we roll down South, we dine here at least once, if not twice. The Cheese Biscuits are always a highlight—sweet, savory, and totally moreish. These moist little muffins are traditionally served with whipped butter, alongside a heap of brisket and pulled pork. I think they’re also terrific eaten plain for breakfast.

1 1/2 cups flour
3/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 cup milk
1 egg, beaten well
4 tablespoon butter, melted
1/4 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Butter or spray the 12 molds in a regular-size muffin pan.

Combine flour, sugar, and baking powder in a large bowl and set aside. Whisk egg, milk, butter, and vanilla together in a medium-sized bowl and set aside. Pour the liquid ingredients over the dry ingredients and, with the whisk or a rubber spatula, gently but quickly stir to blend.

Incorporate shredded cheese into batter. Do not over mix.

Divide batter evenly among greased muffin tins. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes. When fully baked, the tops of the biscuits will be golden and springy to the touch and a thin knife inserted into the center of the biscuits will come out clean. Transfer the pan to a rack and cool for 5 minutes before carefully removing each biscuit from its mold.

Makes 10 to 12 biscuits.

[For Printable Recipe Click Here]

Restaurant Review

17 Apr 2009

Peking Express – Napa

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On the day of our long awaited trip to The French Laundry, I awoke and ate two small bowls of cereal. The Gastronomer was intent on eating sparingly for the remainder of the day in preparation for our just shy of six o’clock dinner reservation. I was considering joining her, but by noon I was already getting hungry. I never want to go into a fancy meal with a full stomach, but it’s no good arriving ravishing either—the first few courses come far too slowly, and I am inclined to shovel them down rather than savoring each bite.

As we neared the town of Napa, we pulled into a crowded strip mall, and as luck would have it, there was a single parking space available in front of Peking Express. Even though I had been planning to pick up just a small snack, I couldn’t resist fate—I went inside and ordered a two-item combo for $4.50.

I love it how when you see a Chinese restaurant anywhere in America named “_____ Express”, you know exactly what you’re going to get—a plate of either fried rice or chow mein accompanied by several meat items chosen from a row of trays next to the cash register. Not very authentic or complex, but nearly always delicious. I went with my all-time favorite, sesame chicken, and some chow mein. In my experience, the noodles at these places are always better than the fried rice. The cashier asked me if I wanted my order “for here” or “to go,” which confused me since it was already in a Styrofoam container. I regained my composure and requested “for here,” which garnered me a tray on which to carry my Styrofoam.

The food was exactly what I was expecting—sweet, greasy, and enjoyable. Normally, I would have ordered a three-item combo, and The Gastronomer helped out a bit, so at the end of the meal I was satisfied but not overstuffed. By 5:45 PM, I was ready to roll.

What would you eat before a fancy shmancy dinner?

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Peking Express
101 W American Canyon Road #510
American Canyon, CA 94503
Phone: 707-553-8800

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Restaurant Review

16 Apr 2009

Back A Yard – Menlo Park

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A mild case of human smuggling brought The Astronomer and me to Back A Yard in Menlo Park. Our friend Matt, who traveled with us from L.A. to The Bay, needed to meet up with his friends A.J. and Ariel in Mountain View. Rather than drop off Matt at A.J. and Ariel’s place, we decided to meet halfway in Menlo Park for a casual lunch. The impromptu meet-up also provided a fun opportunity to put a face to a food blog—Ariel is the author of This Food is my J.A.M. The more cameras at a meal, the merrier.

According the restaurant’s website, ‘Back A Yard’ is a Caribbean term that encompasses the “lifestyle, culture, spirit, cuisine, and festive mood of welcoming visitors to your home.” Located in a not-so-swank part of The Peninsula, this brightly painted hole-in-the-wall seats just sixteen people. All orders are placed and paid for up front with the cashier. Food is delivered hot from the kitchen soon after.

Mandy Erickson of the San Francisco Chronicle writes, “At Back A Yard, jerk cooking, a marriage of Jamaican spices and African barbecue techniques, is applied to pork, chicken, salmon, steak and tofu. The marinade permeates the meat (or meat substitute), adding complexity of flavor and heat without overwhelming the palate.”

The Astronomer and I shared a Jerk Chicken and Pork Combo ($11.50), which came with rice and beans, fried plantains, a small salad, and a garlicky dipping sauce on the side. The chicken and pork, which were seasoned with allspice, nutmeg, Scotch bonnet peppers, and thyme, were moist, flavorful, and fatty in all the right places. The plantains were nicely caramelized and pleasantly sweet, while the rice and beans took on the same flavor profile as the meats. The food at Back A Yard is straightforward, hearty, and satisfying.

In addition to our jerk platter, we ordered a side of corn festivals ($2.25). These doughnut-like pieces of fried flour and cornmeal were slightly sweet, simultaneously springy yet doughy, and very addictive. They paired perfectly with the jerky meats and savory rice.

Lastly, our table shared a slice of key lime pie ($2.75). The graham cracker crust was crumbly and buttery, while the curd filling delicately balanced sweet and tart.

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Back A Yard
1189 Willow Road
Menlo Park, CA 94025
Phone: 650-323-4244