Sep 2008

I'm Just Not That Into You

When I first started gas•tron•o•my, I blogged each meal and recipe in chronological order. Although I’m not a scientist, I admittedly like things neat and orderly—just take a look at my CD rack. I kept up this ‘eat then write’ routine for quite a while, but it all came to an end when I began penning food reviews for a magazine and couldn’t publish on gas•tron•o•my until the piece was published in hard copy form. Now that posts are completely out of order, to decide what to write about each day, I scan my pictures and pick out something that strikes my fancy.

This post is dedicated to all the foods that I have neglected and passed over for months on end. The one quality that all of these foods share is that they’re not great. In a sea of amazing Saigon eats, it’s tough being only so-so.

First up, xoi chien—this late night bite dates back to February. Xoi chien, which goes for 1,000 VND a piece, is comprised of rounds of sticky rice (xoi) fried (chien) to a crisp and stuffed with a beef and mushroom mixture. If this sounds like your kinda thing, check out CMT8 after the sun has gone down.

I don’t remember what the exact name of this dessert is, but it had the words “che” and “dau hu” (tofu) in it. I am mad for sweet tofu with ginger, but this stuff tasted like chunky sweetened soy milk with way too much ice. The copious amount of ice really ruined a fabulous soy party. Binh Thanh District was the site of this soy mess.

This is another one of Binh Thanh’s meh offerings. The green layers of the cake are made of sticky pandan flavored tapioca that’s similar to banh da lon, while the yellow layers are plain cake. The entire creation is sprinkled with coconut flakes. There was nothing intrinsically terrible about this dessert, it just struck me as dry and not very flavorful. Yawn-city.

We purchased these Japanese Imagawa-yaki in District 3. Unlike the ones we tried in Thailand that were filled with custard and taro paste, these ones were filled mostly with shredded coconut. Once again, too many dry ingredients paired together, and not enough oomph!

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I bought this little ice cream cone impulsively on a super-hot day in District 4 on Ton That Thuyet Street. It tasted sweet, funny and not much else. Although I like having funny friends, I cannot appreciate funny ice cream in the same way. For really super fantastic ice cream, visit Cong Truong for their kem trai dua.

After gorging on dozens of delicious egg tarts in Hong Kong, The Astronomer was curious if the ones in Vietnam were any good. While picking up a couple of pastries for himself at Pham Nguyen Bakery, he grabbed an egg tart for me to try. The verdict? Lame crust, lamer filling. B+ for effort.

This is xoi vi. Cubular portions of sweet xoi sold at bakeries and by street vendors who go through a middle man to procure it. Other than its somewhat interesting shape, there’s nothing really special about xoi vi. My chief beef with xoi vi is that it costs twice as much as regular xoi. Boooo. Gimme back my dong.

While I love bo bia (fresh spring rolls stuffed with a jicama and carrot slaw, sweet Chinese sausages and scrabled eggs that’s dipped in hoisin sauce), I ain’t got no love for bo bia ngot—a sweet spin on the original comprised of coconut shavings, sugar sticks and sesame seeds. Bo bia ngot is too dry and could really benefit from a sauce. A sweet and salty coconut milk sauce would spruce bo bia ngot up nicely.

Examined alone, bun ca (vermicelli rice noodles in a tamarind and fish broth) is pretty darn awesome. The broth is tangy, while the hunks of fish are hearty and moist. But pitted against rock star noodle/broth combinations like bo kho, bun bo and mi ga tiem, it just pales in comparison. That’s pretty much the story with all of the above dishes—they’re good, but not great. And who wants good when you can have GR8? Not me.

Sep 2008

Phở Bò

Frequent readers of the blog will have no doubt noticed that The Gastronomer and I don’t eat pho very often.  It’s not that we dislike it, but it just doesn’t excite us the way a good bowl of bun bo or bo kho does.  In the Saigon heat, a noodle soup had better be damn good to make the requisite sweat bath seem worthwhile.  The environment in Hanoi is more conducive to eating pho (from October to March that is…), but I actually like the sweeter, more flavorful southern version better, so for a long time it seemed that I was just out of luck. 

However, a few months ago we were driving home and noticed an amazing fragrance drifting across Nguyen Khoai Street in District 4.  It was coming from a roadside pho stand that we had never noticed before.  Driving around on a motorbike in Saigon, you breathe in a lot of dust and come across a wide variety of aromas, some of them terrifying.  However, the opportunity to discover hidden culinary gems purely by smell is one of the coolest things ever.  The scent of this pho cart was one of the most alluring we’d ever encountered.  We resolved to return for a meal as soon as possible.

I was quick to follow through on this promise.   After my first bite, I knew that we had indeed found the best pho bo in town.  The flavor was magnificent—no need to squirt in large quantities of hoisin and hot sauce to make the broth interesting.  It was substantial enough to make me want to dip banh mi in it and soak up the leftovers, an honor previously reserved for bo kho.  The dominant scent and flavor was star anise, subtly accompanied by a number of other spices.    Everyone puts star anise in their pho, but the taste of this place’s broth is unmatched.  I think their secret may be as simple as just adding more of it.

My enjoyment was heightened by the addition of beef brisket (nam) to the bowl.  Previously I had only tried pho tai (small pieces of rare beef), but nam definitely adds to the experience.  On The Gastronomer’s first visit to the stall, they had run out of her personal favorite cow part, the stomach lining (sach).  Nevertheless, she agreed that the broth was delicious.   The smell is key—it permeates the senses as you eat, allowing you to spend the entire meal in a state of relaxed bliss.  There used to be another pho restaurant on Nguyen Khoai, but they recently switched to selling com ga xoi mo and mi xao.  I’m pretty sure they were run out of business. 

Directions: Head down Ben Van Dong Street in District 4 and make a left onto Nguyen Khoai Street. The stall is located 300 meters down the road on the left hand side and is open from 5 to 10 PM.

Sep 2008

Faces from the Thành Phố

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The people! That’s my answer when anyone asks what I miss most about Vietnam. Here are the faces that made my year in the Thành Phố (city) one of the best ever. Let’s call this a makeshift yearbook.

He told me his name once when we first met, but The Astronomer and I just refer to him as the Banh Mi Thit Nuong Man. Located in District 4, The Astronomer paid this vendor a visit nearly every morning before work. After I got over my “no meat in the morning” barrier, I indulged in grilled meat sandwiches assembled fresh to order alongside The Astronomer. While The Astronomer had to wait until he arrived at the office to dig into his sandwich, I always ate mine while riding on the back of the motorbike because it is irresistible. I miss seeing the Banh Mi Thit Nuong Man’s big smile. Read all about the sandwich that made us swoon here.

My grandma’s sister Ba Sau is hands down the coolest person in the Thành Phố—she drinks beer in the middle of the day for Pete’s sake! The best days in Saigon were the one’s spent eating leisurely at Ba Sau’s house. There was the time when Lush was in town and she invited us over for a lovely lunch, and the time she called just as our plane landed from Nha Trang and made us the best curry ever, and I’ll never forget how she made banh tet from scratch during Tet, and when she introduced me to the fifth day of the fifth month of the lunar calendar. There ain’t no party like a Ba Sau party.

Sticky rice (xoi) was one of my favorite foods in Saigon—something about sweet simple carbs that I just couldn’t get enough of. This woman sold xoi on Ton That Thuyet Street in District 4. Every morning before I departed on my run, I made sure to stick 2,000 VND in my pocket in order to purchase some xoi as I jogged home. Due to the intense Saigon heat, I always arrived at her stand sweaty and gross, but she was always super-nice and dished me up hearty portions of sticky rice sprinkled with sesame seeds and salt. Read all about running with xoi here.

My grandfather’s younger brother Ong Ty (L) played the role of worried parent while I was in Saigon. He would call me periodically and say things like, “I haven’t heard from you in so long, are you okay?” I was always okay. I invited Ong Ty to a number of meals where English was the primary language spoken and attendees were a quarter of his age. Still, he managed to have a great time every time. What a doll!

Hanh, The Astronomer’s Vietnamese teacher, was one of the sweetest and smartest people we met during our stay. She introduced us to the happy happy joy joys of karaoke for The Astronomer’s 24th birthday, and hooked me up with a new addiction—banh tet chuoi (sticky rice “cake” stuffed with bananas). An interesting fact about Hanh—she’s traveled outside Vietnam quite a bit, but has yet to visit the capital city of Hanoi.

This thach vendor is another one of District 4’s gems. She has a competitor who sells a simliar but inferior product for 500 VND cheaper that I used to frequent until I woke up and tasted her coffee-flavored thach. Forget Gatorade, thach restores my electrolytes after a run better than anything.

Isn’t Miss Adventure just the cutest in her 333 Beer hat? One of my fondest memories of Nina is comparing Vietnamese insults that our mothers taught us or directed at us (when we were kids) while in the Philippines. My personal favorite—“could you please be slightly less stupid so that others can be stupid too?” (It sounds much more offensive in Vietnamese). Nina also introduced me to Quang Ngai delicacies like cha gio bap. I’m gonna make my way to Canada one of these days to visit her and meet her mother.

It’s the Lunch Lady, y’all! Sometimes when I type, Britney Spears makes an unexpected appearance. Unlike Britney, the Lunch Lady has got her act together. Read a sweet profile I wrote about her for AsiaLIFE here. And previous postings about her amazing food here and here. What I wouldn’t give for a bowl of mi ga tiem right about now.

Hawkins striking a pose in a poncho. The rainy season in Saigon is something I definitely don’t miss. There’s a lot to like about this boy, but I think it’s Hawkins’ southern twang that I adore the most. Although we only knew each other for a few short months, we did some big things together, like eating a 1.4 kilogram cheeseburger at the Black Cat and abusing children on the sand dunes of Mui Ne.

Back in the day when I used to work in District 3, The Astronomer and visited Thanh Hai at least once a week for hot and tangy bowls of bun rieu and plates of snails sauteed with basil and green bananas. Sometimes, when we were extra hungry, we’d also share some pork stuffed snails dipped in ginger fish sauce. Mmmm!

Even though Uncle Hai and Aunt Phung always poked fun at The Astronomer and me for eating at “dirty” street food places, they introduced us to some awesome street side eats like coconut ice cream served inside a fresh young coconut at Cong Truong. I took this picture of them at their daughter Mien’s wedding last September. Vietnamese weddings are, dare I say, the bomb! The Astronomer and I really hit it off with my aunt and uncle because they both speak dangerously perfect English. I can’t wait for them to come visit the US of A and tell me their impressions of the place.