May 2008

Eating in Hong Kong I

The city of Hong Kong runs like a well-oiled machine. After months of living in and visiting developing countries, this trip offered a nice change of pace. It’s been two weeks since my jaunt to the city and I still can’t stop raving about their public transportation system, skyline and roast goose. There’s no street food to speak of (at least where I explored), but there was plenty of goodness to be had.

After checking into our hostel, The Astronomer and I hopped the MTR to Central in search of dinner. Prior to my visit, I scoured the message boards at Chowhound and a Hong Kong food blog called Cha Xieu Bao for eating ideas. Needless to say, I arrived in town with a lengthy and ambitious list.

After spying this sign on Wellington Street, The Astronomer and I prayed to the gods that they were serving up Chinese buns. Unfortunately, it was an American joint serving up burgers. Bummer. Definitely not what we were looking for.

Our first stop of the evening was at Mak’s located at 77 Wellington Street in Central.

One of the most notable aspects of Hong Kong eateries is their appreciation of press clippings. Storefront windows and even table tops (as seen here) are often adorned with positive reports on the food. Unbeknowest to us, Mak’s received Bourdain’s seal of approval.

The Astronomer and I shared the house specialty—egg noodles with shrimp wontons ($28 HKD). By the way, $7.8 HKD = $1 USD. We were warned that the portion sizes at Mak’s were small, but geez! Due to the fact that macro photography distorts sizes, it’s hard to tell just how small this bowl was. For perspective’s sake, let’s just say it was similar in size to an average Vietnamese rice bowl.

Wimpy portions aside, the noodles and wontons were solid, but hardly anything special. The texture of the handmade noodles were springy and infused with sesame oil, while the wontons were generously filled with large hunks of shrimp.

For our second course, we crossed the street to dine at Wang Fu (98-102 Wellington Street, Central).

Rows upon rows of freshly made dumplings!

We ordered a plate of pork and chive dumplings ($32 HKD) to share.

Dipped in soy sauce, these babies really came alive. Although I would have preferred a thicker wrapper, the dumplings hit the spot this evening. Wang Fu also serves up an egg and tomato variety after 6 PM that piqued my interest, but we passed since The Astronomer dislikes both egg and tomato. It’s a good thing we both love pork!

We stayed at Wang Fu for our third course—cold sesame noodles ($27 HKD). I’ve seen this item on many Chinese take-out menus and have always been curious to try. The hefty bowl of chilled wheat-y noodles came topped with a spiced egg, cucumbers, bean sprouts and something that physically resembled Bacos. The horseradish tinged sesame sauce coated the noodles properly and the veggies and cinnamon spiced egg were stupendous foils. Not The Astronomer’s cup of tea, but definitely a winner in my book.

We closed out our first night in Hong Kong with a bowl of noodles at Kau Kee Restaurant, a place so famous they have a whole Wikipedia entry.

We shared a bowl of E-fu noodles with beef brisket and broth ($26 HKD). The concoction was uber oily and super beefy, but the overall flavor didn’t really stand out. I read that the beef was marinated in an array of interesting spices and orange peels, but that wasn’t the case this evening. The noodles were different from others I’ve eaten in the past in that they were soft and sort of mushy.

The winner of the evening were the cold sesame noodles. Mmm, boy.

May 2008

Cathay Pacific

I have a sick fascination with airplane food.

Even though I was heading to Hong Kong, a veritable cornucopia of food, I was eagerly anticipating the on-board meal. As someone who prides herself on never wasting space on unworthy food, I’m a bit embarrassed by my enthusiasm for mile-high cuisine.

As the squeaky cart rolled my way, I awoke from my nap, adjusted my seat upward, pulled down my tray and waited for the steward to ask the magic question: pork or fish? “Fish!” I peppily declared. The Astronomer chose pork with dramatically less pep.

Fish proved to be a great choice. The hunks of flaky white fish were smothered in a classic Chinese sweet, gingery and spicy sauce. The ordinary white rice paired with the savory fish and the steamed bok choy made me feel like I was already in China. The carrots looked a bit iffy, so I passed them onto The Astronomer. Aren’t I muy generosa?

Sides included a warm roll with a pat of salted butter from New Zealand and a shrimp, lettuce and cucumber salad. The roll was excellent, while the salad was pretty, but boring (see: Mischa Barton). The first dessert, tiny pearls of tapioca topped with bland squares of JELLO, was mildly interesting. But the second dessert, a mini Kit Kat bar, was far tastier.

The Astronomer’s main was a slab of pig topped with scallions and a single chili. The chop sat on a bed of shrimp and saffron rice along with chunks of squash and some broccoli. My space was too precious to try the pork, but according to The Astronomer, it tasted much better than it looked. The rice and veggies weren’t bad. Like all saffron-infused dishes, the rice’s appearance shined brighter than its actual flavor. The Astronomer’s other side dishes were identical to mine.

We arrived in Hong Kong fueled and ready to pound the pavement in search of the best eats in town. If you thought Bangkok was impressive, you ain’t seen nothin’ yet.

May 2008

Lunch Lady

 

Practically every vendor in town sells the same dish each day. This type of specialization usually results in a dependably consistent product. However, I recently found a lunch lady outside my office at 23 Hoang Sa Street in District 1 that changes up her menu daily without sacrificing quality. Score!

Goi cuon (spring rolls) with hoisin sauce are an everyday staple, but it’s always a surprise which broth and noodle dish she’ll be serving up. Here’s what The Astronomer and I ate on our first visit under her tasty awning.

Goi Cuon (2,000 VND per roll)

Bun Moc – vermicelli rice noodles in a mild pork-based broth with slices of pork and various forcemeats (12,000 VND)

Banh Canh – noodles made of rice and tapioca flour in a mild pork-based broth with slices of pork and various forcemeats (12,000 VND)

Che Thap Cam – dessert drink with seaweed, basil seeds, grass jelly and mung beans (5,000 VND)

The spring rolls were solid, much better than your average street stall rendition. The hoisin sauce, which can either make or break goi cuon, was also very good.

Both main dishes employed the same broth with different noodles. The Astronomer requested bun, while I went for slippery banh canh. During The Astronomer’s “I’m going to eat a new dish each night” phase when I worked at the Saigon Times, he tried bun moc and found it bland. Luckily, this version was anything but boring. The broth was deeply porky and deftly salted. A varied collection of meats and the deep-fried shallots rounded out the dish.

This was my first time having banh canh with a broth made of something other than crab, and I liked it quite a bit. The noodles, which can sometimes be slimy, had a lovely bite like Japanese udon.

I finished off lunch with a tall plastic cup of che. I love the texture of basil seeds between my molars.

Having a standout lunch option five paces from my office is a mixed bag. On the one hand, it’s good because I have a dependable source of fuel, but it’s not so good because I don’t bother exploring new eateries. I’m sure I’ll find a suitable balance for the sake of gas•tron•o•my.

This lunch lady rules.

See also: Meet the Lunch Lady, Her Noodles Bring All the Boys to the Yard, Life After Bourdain: Reuniting with the Lunch Lady.