May 2007

Famous 4th Street Delicatessen – Philadelphia

April 28, 2007
Cuisine: Delis, Eastern European

700 S 4th St, Philadelphia 19147
At Bainbridge St

Phone: 215-922-3274
Website: none

Chocolate Chip Cookie ($1.35)

The summer of 2006 marked the beginning of my love affair with chocolate chip cookies. Prior to last summer, Chips Ahoy (Regular and Chewy) and poorly executed Toll House was more or less the extent of my chocolate chip cookie repertoire. As a result, chocolate chip cookies never ranked high in my book. But all this changed last summer after two events:

1. As I sat patiently on my flight from Philadelphia to Milwaukee on Midwest Airlines, the smell of freshly baked chocolate chip cookies wafted in the air. Unlike the trolls at American Airlines, Midwest Airlines still care about customer service and show patrons by serving two freshly baked chocolate chip cookies on every flight. These cookies are baked on board and are so good—warm and melt-y and the anticipation of their arrival makes them even better. Talk about friendly skies!

2. The second event that changed my outlook was at a work-related retreat. These gatherings are notorious for overfeeding attendees in order to increase alertness and participation. Every afternoon, way too soon after lunch, a tray of cookies would be delivered to our conference room and passed around multiple times until dismissal. I grabbed a cookie each time the tray came by; chocolate chip was always my favorite. These cookies were big, moist, and slightly crispy in all the right places.

Which brings us finally to the cookies at Famous 4th Street Delicatessen. With my new found love of chocolate chip cookies in hand, I made my way down to South Street to sample Philadelphia’s best (or so I’ve heard). There is a satellite location at the Reading Terminal Market that sells only cookies, but I wanted the real deal.

The cookie was about 2.5 inches in diameter and contained chocolatey goodness in every bite; a definite plus. Also, the cookie is made with pure butter and not with trans-fat-laden Crisco. The only factors going against the cookie is its size and temperature. I like really big cookies with soft middles and crisped edges. A small cookie does not vary much in texture. I also prefer freshly baked cookies with gooey chocolate chips; Famous 4th’s cookie was at room temperature.

Famous 4th produces a good cookie and maybe even the best in the city, but I think this town can do better.

Springtime in Philly

Famous 4th Street Delicatessen on Urbanspoon

May 2007

Crepêrie Beau Monde – Philadelphia

April 27, 2007
Cuisine: French, Desserts & Bakeries, Other

624 S 6th Street, Philadelphia 19147
At Bainbridge St

Phone: 215-592-0656
Website: www.creperie-beaumonde.com

Entree I: Mushrooms/Champignons Buckwheat Crêpe – saute of wild & domestic mushrooms & mushroom sauce ($6.50)

Entree II: Andouille Sausage/Saucisse Bretonne Buckwheat Crêpe – a Breton specialty with creamed spinach ($9.50)

Dessert: Wheat Crêpe with Bananas and Dulce de Leche ($6.75)

My lovely friend Adrienne came for a short but sweet visit late last week from upstate New York. She was in the mood for crêpes so we headed to Beau Monde—one of my all-time favorite eateries. Even though Philadelphia is chalk full of restaurant possibilities, I keep returning to Beau Monde time after time for the freedom to craft my own creations and the thoughtfulness the kitchen puts into each delicate crêpe.

An early dinner was in order because Adrienne needed to head down to D.C., while I needed to watch The Astronomer rock it at Penn Relays. Beau Monde is often packed on evenings, but was nearly empty at four in the afternoon which meant guaranteed attentive service and a beautiful space to ourselves.

Adrienne once had a delectable creamed spinach crêpe that she was hoping the chefs at Beau Monde could match. She added some Andouille Sausage to spice things up a bit. Much to her delight, the crêpe exceeded her expectations. The spinach was vibrantly green and creamed perfectly and the sausage was plentiful and flavorful. Beau Monde’s crêpe is now the gold standard that Adrienne uses to measure all future crêpes by.

I chose the simple mushroom crêpe and it wholly hit the spot. The buckwheat crêpe was generously filled with mouth-watering sauteed mushrooms and drizzled with a luscious mushroom cream sauce. The crêpe was crisp around the edges and softer in the middle making each bite just a little different from the one before. The woodsy intensity of the mushrooms was like no other.

We shared my favorite sweet crêpe combination, bananas with dulce de leche, for our finale. The bananas are lightly caramelized, doused with thick dulce de leche, wrapped in a wheat crêpe, and sprinkled with powdered sugar. There aren’t words magnificent enough to describe the awesomeness of this crepe. Adrienne, who isn’t too big on caramel, was speechless after her first bite. Honestly, it’s that good!

Beau Monde on Urbanspoon

Apr 2007

A Cook’s Tour: In Search of the Perfect Meal – Anthony Bourdain

About: A Cook’s Tour is the written record of Anthony Bourdain’s travels around the world in his search for the perfect meal. All too conscious of the state of his 44-year-old knees after a working life standing at restaurant stoves, but with the unlooked-for jackpot of Kitchen Confidential as collateral, Mr. Bourdain evidently concluded he needed a bit more wind under his wings.The idea of “perfect meal” in this context is to be taken to mean not necessarily the most upscale, chi-chi, three-star dining experience, but the ideal combination of food, atmosphere, and company. This would take in fishing villages in Vietnam, bars in Cambodia, and Tuareg camps in Morocco (roasted sheep’s testicle, as it happens); it would stretch to smoked fish and sauna in the frozen Russian countryside and the French Laundry in California’s Napa Valley. It would mean exquisitely refined kaiseki rituals in Japan after yakitori with drunken salarymen. Deep-fried Mars Bars in Glasgow and Gordon Ramsay in London. The still-beating heart of a cobra in Saigon. Drink. Danger. Guns. All with a TV crew in tow for the accompanying series–22 episodes of video gold, we are assured, featuring many don’t-try-this-at-home shots of the author in gastric distress or crawling into yet another storm drain at four in the morning.

You are unlikely to lay your hands on a more hectically, strenuously entertaining book for some time. Our hero eats and swashbuckles round the globe with perfect-pitch attitude and liberal use of judiciously placed profanities. Bourdain can write. His timing is great. He is very funny and is under no illusions whatsoever about himself or anyone else. But most of all, he is a chef who got himself out of his kitchen and found, all over the world, people who understand that eating well is the foundation of harmonious living. –Robin Davidson, Amazon.co.uk

My thoughts: The verdict is in—I don’t like Anthony Bourdain. Sure, he says some humorous things now and again about the Food Network, but I hate how he can’t go a chapter without referencing his penis or someone’s rack. How irrelevant and uncouth! He’s also a little racist (or maybe just brainless) because he titled his chapter on Nha Trang, a beach town in Vietnam, “Can Charlie Surf?” Are you kidding me?

What bothers me the most about Bourdain is that he fancies himself as a no nonsense chef with street credibility; the antithesis of Rachael Ray and company. When in reality he needs to embrace the sell-out within because he most definitely did sell-out. His continual biting of the hand that feeds him is lame. Own it Bourdain!

While my feelings for the man are lukewarm at best, the book was actually a decent read when Bourdain wasn’t being vulgar or offensive. His travels to Russia and Morocco were especially interesting because their cuisine is often overlooked and under-appreciated. He made borsch and cous cous sound like world class offerings. His dinner at the French Laundry was also a pleasure to read.

The book’s concept was interesting, but I would’ve enjoyed it a lot more if someone other than Bourdain wrote it. Say, Ruth Reichl?