Restaurant Review
08 May 2007

Rouge – Philadelphia

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4 Comments

May 2, 2007
Cuisine: American (New), Bistro

205 S 18th St, Philadelphia 19103
At Walnut St

Phone: 215-732-6622
Website: none

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Roll with butter (complimentary)

Pan Seared Crab Cake – Provençal fish soup, potato rouille, baby fennel, garlic confit ($17)

Rouge Burger – Gruyère caramelized onions and pommes frites ($15)

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With spring definitely in bloom, my friend James and I met up for a leisurely lunch at Rouge. The weather was perfect so we opted to dine alfresco even though it meant waiting a short while. We landed a table close to 18th Street, which fortunately wasn’t too busy this weekday. Exhaust and eats would have been a terrible combination.

In July 2005, Alan Richman of GQ ranked the Rouge Burger #4 on his list of “The 20 Hamburgers You Must Eat Before You Die.” Glancing at the menu, I quickly settled on the famed burger because I love a well-executed burger and I aim to eventually eat all twenty someday! By the way, Rouge’s neighbor Barclay Prime holds the #3 spot on the list with their Kobe Beef Sliders.

After spying a fellow diner’s Rouge Burger, I decided that it was too hefty for one and chose to split it with James. For our second entree, James picked the Pan Seared Crab Cake. As we waited for our food to arrive, we were brought out delicious rolls with pads of butter sprinkled with coarse salt. The afternoon sun softened the butter nicely, which ensured a smooth spread.

The entrees were brought out simultaneously, but I reached for the burger first because it looked so inviting. One bite and I was in beefy heaven. The meat patty was moist, flavorful, and measured over an inch thick at it’s widest (which James found a little challenging). The brioche bun was flaky, sweet, and bravely held on tight to the enormous patty. The cheese and caramelized onions were great too, but overshadowed by the almighty beef. The burger was so satisfying that I skipped on the ketchup, lettuce, and tomato. Our only complaint was the limp pickle spear.

The frites served with the Rouge Burger reminded James in appearance (not taste) of Boardwalk Fries. Every frite from top to bottom in the conical holder was crisp and salted nicely. In this case, ketchup was in order.

I moved on to the Pan Seared Crab Cake after a couple bites of my burger. The crab cake was petite, lightly packed with chunks of crab meat, and seared ever so slightly. James thought the tastiest parts of the crab cake were more aggressively seared. In hindsight, we should have asked for the crab cake to be delivered as an appetizer because the flavors were far too mild to be eaten side by side with the burger. The fish “soup” was lackluster, but next to the Rouge Burger, what isn’t?

Click below for Alan Richman’s complete list: “The 20 Hamburgers You Must Eat Before You Die”

Rouge on Urbanspoon

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Restaurant Review
07 May 2007

Bonté – Philadelphia

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9 Comments

April 29, 2007
Cuisine: Belgian, Desserts & Bakeries, Coffeehouses

922 Walnut St, Philadelphia 19107
Btwn S 9th St & S 10th St

Phone: 215-238-7407
Website: www.bontewaffles.com

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Belgian Sugar Waffles – made fresh, served hot, just like on the streets of Belgium ($2.75)

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Bonté currently boasts three locations in Center City on 17th, 13th, and 9th all along Walnut Street. Perhaps the city should consider changing the street’s name to Waffles Street? Now, that would be rad. Since I live on Waffles Street, I walk by Bonté often and would have tried it sooner if their most convenient location on 13th wasn’t always closed when the mood struck.

On our way to the Italian Market one Sunday afternoon, The Astronomer and I took a snack break at the Bonté on 9th. For our inaugural tasting, we chose the plain waffle. White chocolate, dark chocolate, blueberries, bananas, strawberries, and pecans are available mix-in options for an additional sum.

Approximately five minutes after placing our order, a piping hot waffle was brought to our table. It smelled delicious, but the charred spots were somewhat off-putting. One bite and it was obvious that the “authentic” Belgian waffles made at Bonté have little in common with the Belgian waffles we’re accustomed to.

First off, Bonté’s waffles are made from a dough rather than a batter. I peaked behind the counter and saw the waffle artist pressing pre-made dough onto the hot iron, which explains its density and irregular shape. Whereas regular waffles are consumed with maple syrup, Bonté’s have sugar crystals within the dough providing plenty of sweetness and a great crunch. In terms of texture, Bonté’s waffles are stiffer and denser than their fluffy, batter-made counterparts. The interior of Bonté’s waffles is wonderfully flaky.

The waffles cooked up at Bonté are special and delectable. With three ridiculously convenient shops, I’m going to start making Bonté a habit because their waffles sure are tasty.

Bonte Wafflerie on Urbanspoon

Recipe
06 May 2007

Lemon Tea Bread

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2 Comments

  • 2 large lemons
  • 3 cups all-purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, softened
  • 2 1/2 cups sugar
  • 4 large eggs
  • 1 cup whole milk
  • 2 teaspoons poppy seeds

Preheat oven to 325°F. Butter and flour two 9- x 5- x 3-inch metal loaf pans, knocking out any excess flour.

Finely grate enough zest from lemons to measure 2‚ teaspoons and squeeze enough juice to measure about 1/2 cup. Into a bowl sift together flour, baking powder, and salt.

In a large bowl with an electric mixer beat together butter, 2 cups sugar, and zest until light and fluffy. Beat in eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. With mixer on low speed add flour mixture and milk alternately in batches, beginning and ending with flour mixture and beating just until batter is combined well. Beat in poppy seeds and 1 tablespoon lemon juice and divide batter between loaf pans, smoothing tops. Bake loaves in middle of oven until a tester comes out clean, about 1 hour.

While loaves are baking, in a small bowl stir together remaining lemon juice and remaining 1/2 cup sugar until sugar is dissolved.

Cool loaves in pans on a rack 15 minutes. Run a thin knife around edges of pans and invert loaves onto rack. Turn loaves right side up and pierce tops all over with a thin skewer. Repeatedly brush lemon glaze over tops of loaves until all of glaze is absorbed.

Cool loaves completely. Tea bread keeps, wrapped in wax paper, in an airtight container at room temperature 4 days or, wrapped in foil and frozen, 1 month.

Makes 2 loaves or 5 mini-loaves. When we tested the smaller loaves (which innkeeper Debby Hayden prefers), we used disposable 6- x 3- x 2-inch loaf pans—sometimes called baby loaf pans—and baked the bread for about 45 minutes instead of 1 hour.

Gourmet, May 1999

[For Printable Recipe Click Here]

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Substitutions: I halved the entire recipe to yield one loaf and skipped the poppy seeds and glaze completely. I used 100% whole wheat flour, plain yogurt in place of butter and milk, a heaping teaspoon of baking soda, 1/4 C of lemon juice in the batter, and half the sugar called for. These changes were suggested by individuals who tried the recipe on Epicurious. The bread had fabulous texture and was very lemony!