For those who believe that any food can be improved upon by serving it between sliced bread, I present to you the torta de chilaquiles.
Served on the corner of Alfonso Reyes and Tamaulipas in Condesa (open every day from 8 AM till noon), the torta de chilaquiles begins with a crusty French roll with most of its innards removed. A thin layer of refried black beans followed by a slab of breaded chicken milanesa and a scoop each of red and green chilaquiles make up the bulk of the filling. The final flourishes, cojita cheese and a heavy squirt of crema, dial the already over-the-top sandwich to an 11. Actually, make that a 12.
The torta de chilaquiles was a beast of a creation, a strangely charming and sloppy mouthful of carbs, fat, and soulful satisfaction. While the heft of the sandwich was certainly intimidating, The Astronomer and I were able to finish it together. We saluted the local set who polished off a whole torta alone. Damn.
