Archive for July, 2007 Page 3 of 4



Cà Dê Nướng

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Roasted Japanese Eggplant with Scallions in a Chili Soy Sauce

For eggplant

  • 3 Japanese eggplants
  • Stovetop griddle

For sauce

  • 1/4 cup scallions
  • Vegetable oil
  • 1/2 tablespoon sugar
  • 1 tablespoon soy* sauce
  • Vinegar
  • Hot water
  • Chili paste

Make eggplant

On a stovetop griddle, roast the eggplants with their skins on over medium heat. Roast each side until blackened and soft to the touch, which takes approximately 15 minutes per side. The eggplants’ skin will char and may even pop, but keep roasting until the flesh is softened on all sides.

Once the eggplant has been roasted, cover with aluminum foil to cool for 20-30 minutes. While the eggplant is cooling, prepare the sauce.

After the eggplant has cooled, peel off the skin with your hands or a paring knife. The skin should peel off easily if the eggplant has been properly cooked. Cut the eggplants’ flesh into bite-sized pieces and arrange on a plate.

Make sauce

Chop a quarter cup of scallions (white part only). Sautee the chopped scallions in a tablespoon of vegetable until translucent. Spread the sautéed scallions atop the eggplant once it has cooled and arranged on the plate.

Wisk together sugar, soy sauce, vinegar, water, and chili paste to form a sauce. Add vinegar and chili paste to your liking and enough hot water to thin out the sauce. Spread atop scallions and eggplant.

Serve warm with rice.

*Fish sauce can substituted for a non-vegetarian version.

Jasmine Seafood Restaurant

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July 4, 2007
Cuisine: Chinese, Dim Sum

4609 Convoy St, Suite A
San Diego, CA 92111

Phone: (858) 268-0888
Website: http://www.jasmineseafoodrestaurant.com/

While most people in San Diego were celebrating the Fourth barbecuing at the beach and watching fireworks, my mom, grandma, aunt, and  I headed to Jasmine for dim sum—nothing says America like non-proficient English speakers serving up copious amounts of meat. Since I reviewed Jasmine last December, I thought I’d treat this post as a Dim Sum 101 of sorts for individuals who have never experienced the delicious chaos that is dim sum. 

Jasmine is my family’s choice eatery for dim sum because they offer great variety and service. Their dining room is incredibly spacious and always bustling with carts filled with meat, seafood, vegetables, and desserts. While some dim sum restaurants have diners order from a menu, this is not the case here. At Jasmine, diners are seated at tables and choose their delights as carts roll by. Prices are sort of a mystery in this process, but one can be certain that everything is priced reasonably. Once a dish or dishes have been selected, the individual pushing the cart uses a tiny stamp to imprint a symbol on to the table’s bill. The bill stays on the table and more stamps are added as the meal progresses. At the end of the feast, the total is tabulated based on the number of stamps.   

The cardinal rule of dim sum is to never order vegetables. If you’re in the mood for healthy or light fare, dim sum is not the way to go. Stick with the meats, seafood, and carbohydrates. While we’re at it, don’t bother with dessert either. The only worthy exception to the dessert rule is Dauhua, which is hot tofu in a ginger syrup that is wonderfully sweet and spicy. 

It is best to consume dumplings and the like with soy sauce and some hot chili oil, especially if you want a little heat. Furthermore, I would recommend going to dim sum with a large party in order to sample as many dishes while avoiding leftovers. Here are some of my (and my family’s) favorite dim sum offerings:    

Shrimp Har Gow ($4) 

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Shrimp Har Gow are steamed dumplings filled with large chunks of plain shrimp. The outer wrapping is made of tapioca flour, which adds a chewier consistency to the dumpling.   

Scallop and Shrimp Dumpling ($4)

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Scallop and Shrimp Dumplings are very similar to Shrimp Har Gow, but with the addition of scallions and scallops. The generous filling of scallops and shrimp inside the dumpling makes this a particularly luxurious treat.  

Salt and Pepper Calamari ($7.95)

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Salt and Pepper Calamari is one of the best dishes at Jasmine. Calamari are lightly dipped in a salty batter and fried briefly to a crisp. The texture is chewy and the taste is savory with a bit of spice from the fresh chilies.  

Steamed BBQ Pork Buns ($2.50) 

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Steamed BBQ Pork Buns are a dim sum staple. The BBQ pork filling is sweet, but not cloyingly so, while the bun is soft and moist. This dish also comes baked, which makes for a golden and crispier bun.

Ox Tripe with Ginger and Scallion ($2.50)

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Ox Tripe with Ginger and Scallion highlights tripe well and is overall very mild on the palette. I adore tripe for its slightly rubbery texture and flavor absorbing properties. This thinly sliced preparation reminded me of the tripe served in phở.

Lotus Leaf Sticky Rice ($4.30)

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Lotus Leaf Sticky Rice is glutinous rice that has been prepared with chicken and dried shrimp and steamed while wrapped in a lotus leaf. The lotus leaf only adds a light flavor and more importantly, keeps the rice moist and sticky. This savory dish is a great complement to any dumpling.

Shrimp Siu Mai ($4)

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Shrimp Siu Mai is a shrimp meatball enclosed partially in a wonton wrapper. Since the outer wrapping is quite thin, the focus in this dish is on the shrimp. The siu mai is not as tender as the har gow, but still delicious.   

Steamed Assorted Meat Tofu Roll ($3.60)

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Pork, chicken, bamboo shoots, and mushrooms are wrapped in sheets of bean curd and served in a savory, but oily sauce. A bit of soy sauce really sets off the flavors and cuts through the dish’s oiliness.

Stewed Beef Tripe with Turnip ($5.60)

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Whereas the Ox Tripe with Ginger and Scallion was sliced thinly and mild in flavor, the Stewed Beef Tripe with Turnip was the complete opposite. The beef tripe was cut in thick chunks and bathed in a ginger sauce. The ginger permeated the tripe creating an outstanding flavor.   

Chicken Feet with Black Bean Sauce ($2.50) 

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Many members of my family (especially my grandma) adore Chicken Feet with Black Bean Sauce, but I’m not too fond of this dish due to its squishy texture and lack of deep flavor. I’m surprised how fatty chicken feet are considering chicken are on their feet all day! Everyone should try this dish at least once since it’s a classic dim sum offering.

Beef Rice Rolls ($4.30)

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Beef Rice Rolls consist of a beef filling wrapped in large, flat rice noodles and served in a mild soy sauce. Shrimp rice rolls are also available. Beef Rice Rolls were my favorite dim sum dish as a kid and I still really enjoy them. Be extra careful when eating this dish because the rolls are very slippery.

Đậu Hũ Kho

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Braised Tofu with Tomatoes and Mushrooms

  • 1 container of firm or extra firm tofu
  • Vegetable oil
  • 1 leek stalk
  • 3 tomatoes
  • 10 button mushrooms
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 5 tablespoons soy sauce
  • Black pepper

Cut tofu into 2″ x 2″ cubes. Deep fry* tofu cubes in vegetable oil until golden and set aside to drain.

Cut the tomatoes into bite-sized cubes with seeds. Quarter or halve mushrooms into bite-sized pieces. Slice leeks thinly (white part only). Using some of the oil from the tofu, sauté shallots until browned then add tomatoes and mushrooms and gently combine. Season the vegetables with salt, sugar, and soy sauce. My family likes to use the Golden Mountain soy sauce brand. Cover with lid and let the vegetables sweat for 5 minutes.

Once the tomatoes and mushrooms have softened, add tofu and place lid back on—do not stir. After 3 minutes, incorporate the tofu with the vegetables and bring to a boil. Season with pepper. Let the tofu and vegetables boil for another 20 minutes.

Serve warm with rice.

*To avoid deep frying, Asian grocery stores often sell tofu that has already been deep fried.

Buddakan

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June 26, 2007
Cuisine: Asian, Eclectic & International, Pan-Asian & Pacific Rim

325 Chestnut St, Philadelphia 19106
Btwn S 3rd St & S 4th St

Phone: 215-574-9440
Website: http://www.buddakan.com/

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Appetizer: Crispy Calamari Salad ($9)

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Entree I: Grilled Teriyaki Salmon - served with stir fried long beans, cream cheese and arugula sushi rolls ($25)  

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Entree II: Asian Barbeque Pork - grilled tenderloin with Chinese broccoli and giant panko crusted onion rings ($26)

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Dessert I: “Dip Sum” Doughnuts - five spice sugar doughnuts, blackberry jam, chocolate sauce, gingered cream cheese ($9)

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Dessert II: Banana Tower - rum glazed bananas, caramel cream in a cookie tower ($9)  

Philly diners either love or hate Steven Starr, but there’s no denying that he is an influential player in the city’s food scene. I have always been an enthusiast of Starr’s restaurants and believe that his venues add value and variety to the dining landscape.

I once read that Starr built his empire around booze and babes, but for a gal who hardly ever drinks and is happily smooching one Astronomer, I enjoy his joints for a simpler reason—Starr and his minions crank out some really good eats. Striped Bass, Alma de Cuba, and Morimoto are all stellar, but Buddakan remains my favorite through and through.

For my last supper in the City of Brotherly love, The Astronomer and I headed to Old City to pay the obnoxious, glowing Buddha one last visit. For a Tuesday evening, the restaurant was packed and loud. In fact, the main dining room was so noisy that we requested a different table from our original seating. We were ultimately placed upstairs in a table next to the one we sat at on New Year’s Eve (!), which made conversation easier on the pipes.

Buddakan’s entrees and desserts have always been right on point, but their appetizers tend to leave me dissatisfied. We asked our waiter for a recommendation and he suggested we try the Crispy Calamari Salad. A small order of the salad was humongous and composed of five different types of greens including Napa cabbage, bok choy, and watercress. The salad was topped with a sweet miso dressing that complemented the greens and calamari wonderfully. The salad was cool, refreshing, and a great start to our dinner.

For our entrees, The Astronomer and I ordered our two favorite dishes, the Grilled Teriyaki Salmon and Asian Barbecue Pork. I requested the salmon be prepared rare and it came out just as I asked, which kept the meat tender yet flakey. The cream cheese and arugula sushi rolls were amazing (as always) and were my favorite part of the dish. Although the combination of ingredients inside the sushi may sound a bit strange, trust me when I say that the flavors really meld nicely together.

The pork dish was also delectable, especially the gigantic panko crusted onion rings. The pork tenderloin was thinly sliced, served in a hoisin based sauce, and arranged beautifully on the platter. The meat was moist and paired well with the sautéed Chinese broccoli. The Astronomer loves eating his greens when they’re covered in a delicious glaze.

For dessert we each ordered our own delight because The Astronomer dislikes bananas and I had to have a Banana Tower. I enjoyed a Banana Tower once prior with my brother but haven’t ordered it for a long while due to The Astronomer’s aversion. While I would normally insist on splitting dessert, since it was our final dinner in the city, splurging on two was totally acceptable.

The Tower combines two of my favorite ingredients—bananas and caramel—in a thick and buttery cookie. I enjoyed demolishing the cookie Tower and coupling it with the caramel pudding and ripe bananas. It’s amazingly easy to finish a dessert solo when it’s this divine.

The Astronomer enjoyed his donuts thoroughly and had a look of utter bliss on his face as he ate them. The donuts appeared to be a lot bigger than the ones served in the past, but The Astronomer managed to finish them with ease. The blackberry and ginger cream cheese were his favorite accompaniments.

Our dinner at Buddakan was unbelievably marvelous and provided the perfect ending to our Philadelphia adventure. Peace, Philly.

Crepêrie Beau Monde

inside

June 24, 2007
Cuisine: French, Desserts & Bakeries, Other

624 S 6th Street, Philadelphia 19147
At Bainbridge St

Phone: 215-592-0656
Website: www.creperie-beaumonde.com

salmon

Entree I: Smoked Salmon / Saumon Fume Buckwheat Crêpe - with roasted leeks and crème fraîche ($10)

mushroom

Entree II: Mushrooms/Champignons Buckwheat Crêpe - saute of wild & domestic mushrooms and mushroom sauce ($7)

banana

Dessert I: Wheat Crêpe with Bananas and Dulce de Leche ($6.75)

rasp, choco

Dessert II: Wheat Crêpe with Fresh Raspberries, Chocolate and Vanilla Ice Cream ($11.75)

By now, longtime readers of gas•tron•o•my probably know that The Astronomer and I simply adore Crepêrie Beau Monde. Every time we have friends or family in town or are asked for restaurant recommendations, we always insist upon Beau Monde for their wonderful crêpes and unparalleled atmosphere. I have been dining here since my college days and will not likely find crêpes better than Beau Monde’s anywhere, unless of course I’m in the Breton region of France!

For our penultimate meal in the city, The Astronomer and I headed to Beau Monde for one final feast of crêpes. Since I will not be returning to the restaurant in the near future due to my pending move, I figured it would be best to stick to my favorites rather than experiment with new ingredients. I ordered the mushroom savory crêpe and the dulce de leche with bananas sweet crêpe, both of which I’ve had on many occasions. The savory and sweet crêpes were as delightful as I remembered, but a tad drier than the ones I’ve had prior. Who knows when my next trip to Beau Monde will be, but I will request saucier crêpes when I return.   

The Astronomer’s savory crêpe, smoked salmon with roasted leeks and crème fraîche, has always been one of his old standbys. He commented that the combination of flavors from the salmon, crêpe, and leeks were very good, but overall the crêpe was too dry; additional sauce would have made for a more complete and satisfying package. The Astronomer’s sweet crepe with raspberries, chocolate sauce, and vanilla ice cream was everything he hoped it would be. The chocolate and berries went together beautifully and the cool ice cream topped off the entire creation perfectly.

Philadelphia’s vibrant restaurant scene is chalk full of good eateries, but I find myself returning to Beau Monde time after time for their immense value, unique offerings, and gorgeous space.