Category Archive for ‘French’ at gas•tron•o•my

Archive for the 'French' Category

La Fourchette

Published

Gastronomer

on April 7, 2008

in French, Restaurant Review and Saigon

. 4 Comments

March 28, 2008
Cuisine: French

9 Ngo Duc Ke Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh Ville

Phone: 8298143
Website: none

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Baguette (complimentary)

Escargots de Bourgogne – Burgundy snails gratined with garlic, parsley, and butter (180,000 VND)

Salade Nordique au Vinaigre Balsamique – salad with smoked salmon and mackerel with balsamic vinegar (95,000 VND)

Tagliatelles au Saumon –Tagliatelle with smoked salmon and roe with fresh cream (120,000 VND)

Filet de Boeuf – beef tenderloin with Roquefort and mustard (170,000 VND)

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Four years ago, The Astronomer and I were “screwed.”

Screw Your Roommate is an annual tradition at our college where students arrange blind dates for their friends and roommates. At an intellectually stimulating and socially depressing institution like Swarthmore, it was the one occasion that merited showering and clean clothes for the bulk of the student body—and all for the slim chance of getting some tail.

My friend James was in charge of “screwing” me senior year and as a last resort, chose a freshman Astronomer as my date. The evening turned out to be not the least bit awkward and fun beyond belief. So fun in fact, that we’re still happily screwed four years later. Thanks, James!

The Astronomer and I headed to La Fourchette a few weeks back to honor the big 0-4. The celebration was not nearly as elaborate as last year’s at Lacroix in Philadelphia, but it was satisfactorily lovely.

La Fourchette is located in a small wood paneled space adorned with vintage European posters. The ambiance is warm and the service is very good by Saigon standards. Soon after we placed our orders, a basket of bread along with a slab of softened butter arrived. The baguette was cool to the touch, which was a letdown for two kids who love warm and toasty bread.

Always a sucker for smoked salmon, I chose the Salade Nordique au Vinaigre Balsamique to start. After receiving a pile of cold cuts at Augustin, I was a bit weary of my selection. Luckily, this time around the kitchen got it exactly right. My plate of lightly dressed field greens, cherry tomatoes and chopped basil topped with smoked salmon and mackerel was fresh, tart, smoky and light. I loved how the intensely salty smoked fish paired with the sharp balsamic.

The Astronomer’s Escargots de Bourgogne was brilliantly executed and on par with the ones he ate in France. Adorned with butter, breadcrumbs, garlic, and parsley, the snails were tender and exceptionally flavorful. The Astronomer happily sopped up all of the garlicky butter with bread.

For my main course, I went with a hunk of red meat. The Filet de Boeuf was decadently sauced up with Roquefort and served with white wine mustard on the side. Although it was prepared perfectly rare, the tenderloin was not as tender as I had hoped. However, the pungent cheese sauce was a luxurious treat. The meat was served with sautéed mixed vegetables that were slightly overcooked and too buttery and potatoes au gratin that melted in my mouth. It’s hard to go wrong with paper thin layers of potatoes coated in cream, eggs and butter.

I did not care much for The Astronomer’s Tagliatelles au Saumon because the sauce contained too much white wine and not enough smoky salmon goodness. The Astronomer was overall pleased with his selection, but disappointed that the salmon roe congealed to the point of being inedible due to the heat from the pasta.

The dessert list at La Fourchette is heavy on ice cream and light on interesting, so we jetted to Augustin for a Grand Marnier soufflé to finish off the evening.

Augustin

Published

Gastronomer

on March 31, 2008

in French, Restaurant Review and Saigon

. 3 Comments

March 14, 2008
Cuisine: French

10 Nguyen Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 8292941
Website:

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Duck terrine with green pepper (70,000 VND)

Salad with smoked duck, jambon, egg and pate (75,000 VND)

Grilled sea bass filet with cream, lemon, and ginger sauce (85,000 VND)

Duck with orange sauce (105,000 VND)

Chocolate soufflé (85,000 VND)

Grand Marnier soufflé (85,000 VND)

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When I first arrived in Saigon, I shunned at the idea of eating anything other than Vietnamese food. As I gradually started viewing Saigon as a metropolitan city rather than just the motherland, the idea of eating an ethnically varied diet seemed less contrived and more appealing.

Sensing my change in mind-set, The Astronomer gave me a series of non-Vietnamese dinners for my birthday. My first dinner was at Meric in Siem Reap, Cambodia. My second fish sauce-less outing was at a classic French restaurant in Saigon called Augustin.

Stepping into Augustin reminded me of the restaurants I used to frequent back East. Hardly larger than a shoebox, the tables at Augustin are set so close to one another that we had to awkwardly interrupt the couple next to us to request anything from the waiters.

After we placed our orders, a basket of warm French bread along with a slab of soft butter arrived at our table. Vietnamese baguettes are perfectly good, but bread with substantial innards are so much more satisfying, especially with a smear of high-quality butter.

For my appetizer, I ordered a “salad with smoked duck, jambon, egg and pate.” I was expecting a frisee salad of sorts with a runny egg and ducky accents, but what I received was a pile of forcemeats with slices of tomatoes, wedges of hard boiled eggs, and a few pieces of vinegary iceberg lettuce. Since when does a mound of cold cuts constitute a salad? The spicy slices of pepperoni were the highlight of a rather disappointing starter.

The Astronomer chose the “duck terrine with green pepper” at my request for his appetizer. I read a lot about terrines in Michael Ruhlman’s chef series and have wanted to taste one since then. The duck terrine, which was served with slices of tomatoes, iceberg lettuce and pickled gherkins, turned out to be nothing more than pate. Sadly, it was the same pate as the one served on my salad. I can’t say where this terrine ranked since it was my first, but it struck me as a bit dry and too mild.

Two swings. Two misses.

Things started looking up when The Astronomer’s grilled sea bass filet with cream, lemon, and ginger sauce arrived. Although too rich for my taste, the dish was exactly what The Astronomer wanted this evening. The filet was served with steamed green beans, carrots and potatoes.

Just as things were starting to go swimmingly, my duck with orange sauce arrived way overcooked—we’re talking rubbery meat territory. For the first time in my dining career, I sent a dish back to the kitchen. The waitress explained to me that the locally raised duck had to be cooked thoroughly due to the risk of bird flu. Although probably not the smartest decision I’ve ever made, I asked that the chef please prepare the duck rare.

My second duck with orange sauce arrived perfectly rare and succulent as can be. The Astronomer and I ooh’d and ah’d as we smothered the tender meat in a citrus bath and brought it to our mouths. We both agreed that if we did contract bird flu, this was a great way to go. The duck was served with some bland carrots, green beans and frites.

For dessert, The Astronomer and I indulged in the dreamiest chocolate soufflé ever. The edges of the soufflé were gorgeously caramelized, while the insides were velvety smooth and unbelievably light and airy. Usually chocolate desserts leave me thirsty and hyper, but this one was subtly decadent.

The soufflé was so extraordinary that we returned two weeks later to sample the Grand Marnier version. With just a touch of orange liquor, the Grand Marnier soufflé was just as good as the chocolate one.

Crepêrie Beau Monde

Published

Gastronomer

on July 13, 2007

in French, Philadelphia and Restaurant Review

. 0 Comments

inside

June 24, 2007
Cuisine: French, Desserts & Bakeries, Other

624 S 6th Street, Philadelphia 19147
At Bainbridge St

Phone: 215-592-0656
Website: www.creperie-beaumonde.com

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Entree I: Smoked Salmon / Saumon Fume Buckwheat Crêpe - with roasted leeks and crème fraîche ($10)

mushroom

Entree II: Mushrooms/Champignons Buckwheat Crêpe - saute of wild & domestic mushrooms and mushroom sauce ($7)

Dessert I: Wheat Crêpe with Bananas and Dulce de Leche ($6.75)

rasp, choco

Dessert II: Wheat Crêpe with Fresh Raspberries, Chocolate and Vanilla Ice Cream ($11.75)

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By now, longtime readers of gas•tron•o•my probably know that The Astronomer and I simply adore Crepêrie Beau Monde. Every time we have friends or family in town or are asked for restaurant recommendations, we always insist upon Beau Monde for their wonderful crêpes and unparalleled atmosphere. I have been dining here since my college days and will not likely find crêpes better than Beau Monde’s anywhere, unless of course I’m in the Breton region of France!

For our penultimate meal in the city, The Astronomer and I headed to Beau Monde for one final feast of crêpes. Since I will not be returning to the restaurant in the near future due to my pending move, I figured it would be best to stick to my favorites rather than experiment with new ingredients. I ordered the mushroom savory crêpe and the dulce de leche with bananas sweet crêpe, both of which I’ve had on many occasions. The savory and sweet crêpes were as delightful as I remembered, but a tad drier than the ones I’ve had prior. Who knows when my next trip to Beau Monde will be, but I will request saucier crêpes when I return.

The Astronomer’s savory crêpe, smoked salmon with roasted leeks and crème fraîche, has always been one of his old standbys. He commented that the combination of flavors from the salmon, crêpe, and leeks were very good, but overall the crêpe was too dry; additional sauce would have made for a more complete and satisfying package. The Astronomer’s sweet crepe with raspberries, chocolate sauce, and vanilla ice cream was everything he hoped it would be. The chocolate and berries went together beautifully and the cool ice cream topped off the entire creation perfectly.

Philadelphia’s vibrant restaurant scene is chalk full of good eateries, but I find myself returning to Beau Monde time after time for their immense value, unique offerings, and gorgeous space.

Crepêrie Beau Monde

Published

Gastronomer

on May 2, 2007

in French, Philadelphia and Restaurant Review

. 2 Comments

April 27, 2007
Cuisine: French, Desserts & Bakeries, Other

624 S 6th Street, Philadelphia 19147
At Bainbridge St

Phone: 215-592-0656
Website: www.creperie-beaumonde.com

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Entree I: Mushrooms/Champignons Buckwheat Crêpe - saute of wild & domestic mushrooms & mushroom sauce ($6.50)

Entree II: Andouille Sausage/Saucisse Bretonne Buckwheat Crêpe - a Breton specialty with creamed spinach ($9.50)

Dessert: Wheat Crêpe with Bananas and Dulce de Leche ($6.75)

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My lovely friend Adrienne came for a short but sweet visit late last week from upstate New York. She was in the mood for crêpes so we headed to Beau Monde—one of my all-time favorite eateries. Even though Philadelphia is chalk full of restaurant possibilities, I keep returning to Beau Monde time after time for the freedom to craft my own creations and the thoughtfulness the kitchen puts into each delicate crêpe.

An early dinner was in order because Adrienne needed to head down to D.C., while I needed to watch The Astronomer rock it at Penn Relays. Beau Monde is often packed on evenings, but was nearly empty at four in the afternoon which meant guaranteed attentive service and a beautiful space to ourselves.

Adrienne once had a delectable creamed spinach crêpe that she was hoping the chefs at Beau Monde could match. She added some Andouille Sausage to spice things up a bit. Much to her delight, the crêpe exceeded her expectations. The spinach was vibrantly green and creamed perfectly and the sausage was plentiful and flavorful. Beau Monde’s crêpe is now the gold standard that Adrienne uses to measure all future crêpes by.

I chose the simple mushroom crêpe and it wholly hit the spot. The buckwheat crêpe was generously filled with mouth-watering sauteed mushrooms and drizzled with a luscious mushroom cream sauce. The crêpe was crisp around the edges and softer in the middle making each bite just a little different from the one before. The woodsy intensity of the mushrooms was like no other.

We shared my favorite sweet crêpe combination, bananas with dulce de leche, for our finale. The bananas are lightly caramelized, doused with thick dulce de leche, wrapped in a wheat crêpe, and sprinkled with powdered sugar. There aren’t words magnificent enough to describe the awesomeness of this crepe. Adrienne, who isn’t too big on caramel, was speechless after her first bite. Honestly, it’s that good!

Lacroix at the Rittenhouse

Published

Gastronomer

on April 23, 2007

in Buffet, French, New American, Philadelphia and Restaurant Review

. 5 Comments

Cuisine: New American, French
April 15, 2007

210 W Rittenhouse Sq, Philadelphia 19103
Btwn S 18th St & S 20th St

Phone: 215-790-2533
Website: www.lacroixrestaurant.com

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Sunday Brunch Buffet ($52 per person)

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The Gastronomer: In celebration of three lovely years of togetherness, the Astronomer and I indulged in an extravagant Sunday brunch at Lacroix at the Rittenhouse. When we arrived at 11 AM, the staffers were putting the final touches on the heavenly spread. The natural light coming through the immense windows lit up the room serenely, even for a rainy April morning.

The Astronomer: As I reflect back on my meal at Lacroix and the approximately 50 different dishes that I sampled, I am once again astounded by the sheer magnitude of the experience. How can Lacroix afford to offer so much amazing food for scarcely less than the price of an entree at some other fine dining establishments? I have a feeling it has to do with the meager appetites of many of their patrons—in any case, as an Astronomer who loves to eat, I was more than ready to take advantage of the situation

The Astronomer’s Selections

The Astronomer: The Gastronomer and I began our meal by sampling the selections from the cold appetizers. In order to avoid being overwhelmed, I served myself only a few items—I knew I had many hours of eating ahead of me. Nothing from Plate #1 (top row, first) was really amazing. I enjoyed the rosemary olive focaccia and the heart of palm salad was tasty, but the cucumber-lime foam was not as exciting as it looked. Neither was the wild berry “explosion”—Gushers fruit snacks are more explosive. I was glad that I tried the bubble tea—I’m usually not much of a tea drinker, but I found it quite enjoyable, perhaps because the taste approached Kool-Aid more than tea. I also ordered a glass of apple juice, which, as expected, tasted like apple juice.

The fun really began for plate #2 (top row, middle). I returned to the hors d’ oeuvres table and also sampled some offerings from the raw bar. The grilled Portuguese octopus salad was excellent—octopus is my new favorite sea creature. I was less impressed by the salmon roe and other caviar that I tried. Caviar may be expensive, but that doesn’t make it delicious. My favorites from this round were probably the Szechwan chicken dumpling (what can I say, I love Chinese food) and the mini foie gras ice cream sandwich (I’ll leave it to the Gastronomer to describe that one).

At this point I felt like I was just warming up, which was a good thing, because there was a lot more food to try. I decided to make one more trip to the cold food before heading to the kitchen. Plate #3 (top row, last) included two sushi rolls; they were good, but my inexperienced palate couldn’t differentiate the quality from that offered at Ajia. The yogurt “panna cotta” with Maine lobster, pickled mango, and basil was definitely a highlight. Its flavor was smooth, subtle, and refreshing. Due to the amazing variety of food available, I maintained stringent standards for which dishes would warrant a second helping. The lobster and yogurt made the cut, as did the chicken dumpling.

Plate #4 (middle row, first) took me to the heart of Chef Matt Levin’s kitchen, where a whole new level of adventure awaited. Nearly overwhelmed by the extent of the offerings, I decided to hold off on the meats for a bit and sample several treats in small porcelain dishes. The savory Tuscan bread pudding was tasty and might have been worth going back for more if I hadn’t been beginning to feel my stomach swell, but the others were largely disappointing. I loved the Piedmontese gnocchi—it positively melted in my mouth. I tried a Belgian waffle with fruit and also sampled some of the Gastronomer’s French toast. These items would be a highlight for me at a normal brunch, and indeed they were excellent, but somehow I didn’t feel like eating standard breakfast fair doused in syrup after sampling such extravagant hors d’ oeuvres.

When I returned to the kitchen, I finally allowed myself to begin the part of the meal that I had really been looking forward to: the meat courses. I tried a little of everything, and they were absolutely fantastic. Each was unique, with a rich flavor and well-chosen sauce for accompaniment, and all were wonderfully tender. The black cod was delicious, as was the Berkshire pork belly, although its powerful orange sauce unfortunately overwhelmed the taste of some of my subsequent bites. I loved the Vietnamese wild boar with ginger jus, but in the end, my favorite meat dish was the Wellington of Cervana venison loin with apricot-poivre sauce. The venison was surrounded by a flaky pastry, and the pieces came together perfectly.

Even after my meat extravaganza, there were a number of offerings in the kitchen that I still hadn’t tried. I passed on most of the vegetable dishes, although I did try the purple Peruvian potatoes and the sautéed potatoes with fleur de sel, which were nothing special. The Gastronomer got me excited about the Niman Ranch bacon; however, it turns out that I am just not much of a bacon fan, no matter how fine the pigs. The chicken and apple sausage, on the other hand, was quite enjoyable, and the beer braised beef short ribs were incredible. They were among the many dishes that I would have gladly ordered for an entire entree in a more traditional restaurant setting.

By plate #7 (bottom row, first) I was beginning to feel the effects of my earlier indulgences. However, I couldn’t leave the kitchen without taking a second helping of some of my favorites, including the short ribs, venison, and wild boar. After this we decided it was time for dessert. I sampled a number of miniature baked goods—including such personal favorites as a churro and mini-donut. It was fun dipping them in the chocolate fountains, but after the finery of my previous courses, rice crispy treats and brownies seemed a bit boring.

Needless to say, by this point my stomach was ready to explode. We still had not even touched the beautiful offerings presented by pastry chef Matt Maslowski. I carefully perused the table and selected a strawberry rhubarb tart and a small cheesecake with white chocolate. They were sweet and perfect and provided an ideal conclusion to the meal.

The Gastronomer’s Selections

The Gastronomer: Firstly, hats off to The Astronomer for playing the Lacroix Brunch game so well! As you can see from my plates above, I ate way too much at the Raw Bar and Hors d’ Oeuvres station and hardly anything in the kitchen or at the dessert table because I was too full. I was overly excited at the start and as a result, had a disappointing finish. Oh well, I’ll do better next time. And believe me, there will definitely be a next time!

I enthusiastically sampled every offering at the Raw Bar and Hors d’ Oeuvres station (see list below). My favorites of the bunch were the Crazy Eel Roll, Deviled Quail Eggs, Jalapeño-Crab Rillette, and Mini Foie Gras Ice Cream Sandwiches. The eel roll was sweet and lightly packed so it fell apart in my mouth. The selection of sushi was so outstanding that I ate 14 pieces! The Deviled Quail Eggs were far milder than their chicken and mayo counterparts, but the Uni cream tasted like seawater. One of these days I’ll develop a taste for Uni. The Jalapeño-Crab Rillette was spicy and fresh.

The highlight of the Hors d’ Oeuvres station were the Mini Foie Gras Ice Cream Sandwiches (left). Ultra thin slices of toasted white bread delightfully held together foie gras flavored ice cream. The little gems were dusted with hazelnut-orange powder and sea salt, which further brought out the ice cream’s sweetness. I was such a huge fan of this creation that I effortless consumed six. According to the Chef, I am the current record holder for the most Foie Gras Ice Cream Sandwiches eaten in one sitting.

My favorite salads were the Charred Scallions and Maitake Mushrooms with Black Truffle and the Candy Stripe Beets and Jicama, Yogurt Mint Coulis. The intense mushrooms coupled with the slightly burnt scallions was a winning combination. The beets and jicama were also an outstanding duo—the mint was incredibly refreshing and the beets were wonderfully sweet.

As I headed into the kitchen for the hot buffet, I sadly realized that I was full. Even though I wanted to sample everything Lacroix had to offer, my stuffed state required me to be discerning with my selections. From the kitchen, I chose the Pearl Barley and Apple Pilaf, Creamy Risotto with Early Spring Peas, Dried Cherries, and Roasted Pine Nuts, Fresh Berry Compote, and French Baguette Toast with Apricot Jam. Both the pilaf and risotto were bland compared to the other offerings and were mostly left untouched. The French toast was extra-cinnamon-y and so very good. The apricot jam and berry compote meshed wonderfully with the French toast. After I finished plate #7 (last row, first), I took an hour long break (in the fetal position), while the Astronomer proceeded to eat plates of meat.

My final delight at Lacroix was the Coffee Foam with Gianduja Chocolate at the Liquid Nitrogen Station (last row, middle). I was beyond stuffed at this point, but I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to see molecular gastronomy on the ground. The woman working the station piped a coffee flavored custard mix into a small bowl, sprinkled it with Gianduja Chocolate, and added another layer of custard. She dropped the entire concoction into the bubbling liquid nitrogen. The custard floated in the nitrogen for a quick minute and was scooped out and served. The cold custard crumbled in my mouth and was extremely airy in texture. The coffee was too bitter for me, but the chocolate nicely sweetened the treat.

The Astronomer: By the end of our three and a half hour stay at Lacroix, I was stuffed beyond belief and utterly satisfied. I would go so far as to say that brunch at LaCroix was my favorite meal that I have ever eaten at a restaurant. Le Bec Fin was divine, Buddakan is always delicious, and Highlands Bar and Grill has a special place in my heart, but none can compare with the experience of sampling a stunning variety of amazing appetizers, breakfast foods, meats, and desserts in an all-you-can-eat environment. I only have a few more months in Philly, and there are many new restaurants that I still want to try, but some of these adventures may have to be sacrificed in the name of finding time for a return trip to Lacroix.

The Gastronomer: Whereas Craig LaBan had a salad for dinner after brunching at Lacroix, I had an hour long run instead. I can’t wait to return!