Archive for the 'French' Category Page 2 of 4



La Fourchette

IMG_8316

March 28, 2008
Cuisine: French

9 Ngo Duc Ke Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh Ville

Phone: 8298143
Website: none

IMG_8289

Baguette (complimentary)

IMG_8293

Escargots de Bourgogne – Burgundy snails gratined with garlic, parsley, and butter (180,000 VND)

IMG_8296

Salade Nordique au Vinaigre Balsamique – salad with smoked salmon and mackerel with balsamic vinegar (95,000 VND)

IMG_8301

Tagliatelles au Saumon –Tagliatelle with smoked salmon and roe with fresh cream (120,000 VND)

IMG_8307

Filet de Boeuf – beef tenderloin with Roquefort and mustard (170,000 VND)

Four years ago, The Astronomer and I were “screwed.”

Screw Your Roommate is an annual tradition at our college where students arrange blind dates for their friends and roommates. At an intellectually stimulating and socially depressing institution like Swarthmore, it was the one occasion that merited showering and clean clothes for the bulk of the student body—and all for the slim chance of getting some tail.

My friend James was in charge of “screwing” me senior year and as a last resort, chose a freshman Astronomer as my date. The evening turned out to be not the least bit awkward and fun beyond belief. So fun in fact, that we’re still happily screwed four years later. Thanks, James!

The Astronomer and I headed to La Fourchette a few weeks back to honor the big 0-4. The celebration was not nearly as elaborate as last year’s at Lacroix in Philadelphia, but it was satisfactorily lovely.

La Fourchette is located in a small wood paneled space adorned with vintage European posters. The ambiance is warm and the service is very good by Saigon standards. Soon after we placed our orders, a basket of bread along with a slab of softened butter arrived. The baguette was cool to the touch, which was a letdown for two kids who love warm and toasty bread.

Always a sucker for smoked salmon, I chose the Salade Nordique au Vinaigre Balsamique to start. After receiving a pile of cold cuts at Augustin, I was a bit weary of my selection. Luckily, this time around the kitchen got it exactly right. My plate of lightly dressed field greens, cherry tomatoes and chopped basil topped with smoked salmon and mackerel was fresh, tart, smoky and light. I loved how the intensely salty smoked fish paired with the sharp balsamic.

The Astronomer’s Escargots de Bourgogne was brilliantly executed and on par with the ones he ate in France. Adorned with butter, breadcrumbs, garlic, and parsley, the snails were tender and exceptionally flavorful. The Astronomer happily sopped up all of the garlicky butter with bread.

For my main course, I went with a hunk of red meat. The Filet de Boeuf was decadently sauced up with Roquefort and served with white wine mustard on the side. Although it was prepared perfectly rare, the tenderloin was not as tender as I had hoped. However, the pungent cheese sauce was a luxurious treat. The meat was served with sautéed mixed vegetables that were slightly overcooked and too buttery and potatoes au gratin that melted in my mouth. It’s hard to go wrong with paper thin layers of potatoes coated in cream, eggs and butter.

I did not care much for The Astronomer’s Tagliatelles au Saumon because the sauce contained too much white wine and not enough smoky salmon goodness. The Astronomer was overall pleased with his selection, but disappointed that the salmon roe congealed to the point of being inedible due to the heat from the pasta.

The dessert list at La Fourchette is heavy on ice cream and light on interesting, so we jetted to Augustin for a Grand Marnier soufflé to finish off the evening.

Augustin

IMG_8266 IMG_8126

March 14, 2008
Cuisine: French

10 Nguyen Thiep Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 8292941
Website:

IMG_8129

Duck terrine with green pepper (70,000 VND)

IMG_8134

Salad with smoked duck, jambon, egg and pate (75,000 VND)

IMG_8142

Grilled sea bass filet with cream, lemon, and ginger sauce (85,000 VND)

IMG_8144

Duck with orange sauce (105,000 VND)

IMG_8146

Chocolate soufflé (85,000 VND)

IMG_8317

Grand Marnier soufflé (85,000 VND)

When I first arrived in Saigon, I shunned at the idea of eating anything other than Vietnamese food. As I gradually started viewing Saigon as a metropolitan city rather than just the motherland, the idea of eating an ethnically varied diet seemed less contrived and more appealing.

Sensing my change in mind-set, The Astronomer gave me a series of non-Vietnamese dinners for my birthday. My first dinner was at Meric in Siem Reap, Cambodia. My second fish sauce-less outing was at a classic French restaurant in Saigon called Augustin.

Stepping into Augustin reminded me of the restaurants I used to frequent back East. Hardly larger than a shoebox, the tables at Augustin are set so close to one another that we had to awkwardly interrupt the couple next to us to request anything from the waiters.

After we placed our orders, a basket of warm French bread along with a slab of soft butter arrived at our table. Vietnamese baguettes are perfectly good, but bread with substantial innards are so much more satisfying, especially with a smear of high-quality butter.

For my appetizer, I ordered a “salad with smoked duck, jambon, egg and pate.” I was expecting a frisee salad of sorts with a runny egg and ducky accents, but what I received was a pile of forcemeats with slices of tomatoes, wedges of hard boiled eggs, and a few pieces of vinegary iceberg lettuce. Since when does a mound of cold cuts constitute a salad? The spicy slices of pepperoni were the highlight of a rather disappointing starter.

The Astronomer chose the “duck terrine with green pepper” at my request for his appetizer. I read a lot about terrines in Michael Ruhlman’s chef series and have wanted to taste one since then. The duck terrine, which was served with slices of tomatoes, iceberg lettuce and pickled gherkins, turned out to be nothing more than pate. Sadly, it was the same pate as the one served on my salad. I can’t say where this terrine ranked since it was my first, but it struck me as a bit dry and too mild.

Two swings. Two misses.

Things started looking up when The Astronomer’s grilled sea bass filet with cream, lemon, and ginger sauce arrived. Although too rich for my taste, the dish was exactly what The Astronomer wanted this evening. The filet was served with steamed green beans, carrots and potatoes.

Just as things were starting to go swimmingly, my duck with orange sauce arrived way overcooked—we’re talking rubbery meat territory. For the first time in my dining career, I sent a dish back to the kitchen. The waitress explained to me that the locally raised duck had to be cooked thoroughly due to the risk of bird flu. Although probably not the smartest decision I’ve ever made, I asked that the chef please prepare the duck rare.

My second duck with orange sauce arrived perfectly rare and succulent as can be. The Astronomer and I ooh’d and ah’d as we smothered the tender meat in a citrus bath and brought it to our mouths. We both agreed that if we did contract bird flu, this was a great way to go. The duck was served with some bland carrots, green beans and frites.

For dessert, The Astronomer and I indulged in the dreamiest chocolate soufflé ever. The edges of the soufflé were gorgeously caramelized, while the insides were velvety smooth and unbelievably light and airy. Usually chocolate desserts leave me thirsty and hyper, but this one was subtly decadent.

The soufflé was so extraordinary that we returned two weeks later to sample the Grand Marnier version. With just a touch of orange liquor, the Grand Marnier soufflé was just as good as the chocolate one.

Crepêrie Beau Monde

inside

June 24, 2007
Cuisine: French, Desserts & Bakeries, Other

624 S 6th Street, Philadelphia 19147
At Bainbridge St

Phone: 215-592-0656
Website: www.creperie-beaumonde.com

salmon

Entree I: Smoked Salmon / Saumon Fume Buckwheat Crêpe - with roasted leeks and crème fraîche ($10)

mushroom

Entree II: Mushrooms/Champignons Buckwheat Crêpe - saute of wild & domestic mushrooms and mushroom sauce ($7)

banana

Dessert I: Wheat Crêpe with Bananas and Dulce de Leche ($6.75)

rasp, choco

Dessert II: Wheat Crêpe with Fresh Raspberries, Chocolate and Vanilla Ice Cream ($11.75)

By now, longtime readers of gas•tron•o•my probably know that The Astronomer and I simply adore Crepêrie Beau Monde. Every time we have friends or family in town or are asked for restaurant recommendations, we always insist upon Beau Monde for their wonderful crêpes and unparalleled atmosphere. I have been dining here since my college days and will not likely find crêpes better than Beau Monde’s anywhere, unless of course I’m in the Breton region of France!

 

For our penultimate meal in the city, The Astronomer and I headed to Beau Monde for one final feast of crêpes. Since I will not be returning to the restaurant in the near future due to my pending move, I figured it would be best to stick to my favorites rather than experiment with new ingredients. I ordered the mushroom savory crêpe and the dulce de leche with bananas sweet crêpe, both of which I’ve had on many occasions. The savory and sweet crêpes were as delightful as I remembered, but a tad drier than the ones I’ve had prior. Who knows when my next trip to Beau Monde will be, but I will request saucier crêpes when I return.   

The Astronomer’s savory crêpe, smoked salmon with roasted leeks and crème fraîche, has always been one of his old standbys. He commented that the combination of flavors from the salmon, crêpe, and leeks were very good, but overall the crêpe was too dry; additional sauce would have made for a more complete and satisfying package. The Astronomer’s sweet crepe with raspberries, chocolate sauce, and vanilla ice cream was everything he hoped it would be. The chocolate and berries went together beautifully and the cool ice cream topped off the entire creation perfectly.

Philadelphia’s vibrant restaurant scene is chalk full of good eateries, but I find myself returning to Beau Monde time after time for their immense value, unique offerings, and gorgeous space.

The Astronomer, P/PV