Archive for the 'Tijuana' Category

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Cien Años – Tijuana

Published by Gastronomer on August 18, 2009 in Mexican, Restaurant Review and Tijuana. 5 Comments

4:20 p.m. Stop number seven on the Baja culinary blitz took our grossly over-fed group to Cien Años. The kitchen here is headed up by twenty-one-year-old Talia Nunes, who prepares Mexico City-style alta cocina using local ingredients. Cien Años’ philosophy is similar to La Diferencia, but with a greater emphasis on Baja flare and an absence of six-legged creatures on the menu.

It’s a crying shame that Cien Años was scheduled so late in the afternoon. By the time we walked through its colorfully appointed dining room, our bellies were full to the brim, while our minds were wiped-out from sensory overload.

Cien Años flight of light bites included nopales tostadas (left), octopus tostadas (right, top), and chili shrimp on crackers (right, bottom). H.C. and I were feeling so overwhelmed that we split each of these small botanas (snacks) in order to fit everything in.

Next, we were served a ceviche of salmon and mango in tortilla cups (left) and shooters of spicy almeja de chocolata (chocolate clam – right). Native to Mexico, the chocolate clam was undeniably fresh and had a texture so appealing that it made me forget that I was supposed to be sharing with H.C. The wonton chip was a curious, but ultimately fitting pairing.

The finale, a shredded smoked marlin salpicon, was plated with care, but we were sadly too stuffed to give it proper attention. On occasions like these, I wish I were blessed with four stomachs like a cow. Moo.

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Cien Años
1407 Calle José María Velasco, Zona Río
Tijuana, BC, Mexico
Phone: 1-888-534-608

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BAJA BITES: 2 Days, 3 Cities, 18 Meals
Introduction > 1 > 2 > 3 > 4 > 5 > 6 > 7 > 8 > 9 > 10 > 11 > 12 > 13 > 14 > 15 > 16 > 17 > 18

La Diferencia – Tijuana

Published by Gastronomer on August 10, 2009 in Mexican, Restaurant Review and Tijuana. 6 Comments

3:40 p.m. Stop number six on the Baja culinary blitz brought our group of roving gourmands to Juan Pablo Ussel’s La Diferencia. Located in the zona gastronomica, this nine-year-old restaurant differentiates itself from neighboring temples of alta cocina with its adventurous, Mexico City-inspired menu.

The bill of fare offers a panoply of delights, from national treasures like chiles en nogada to Oaxacan snacks like chapulines (grasshoppers), escamoles (ant eggs), and gusanos de maguey (maguey worms). There truly is something for everyone at La Diferencia.

Our group settled in nicely in the Don Fernando patio—a shady space accented with bold colored tablecloths and chairs. We were served cool tamarind margaritas to start. The icy shards of sweet and sour were incredibly refreshing, especially in the late afternoon heat with impending food comas threatening to take hold.

Under normal circumstances, like when I haven’t eaten five meals prior, I would’ve killed the chips, salsa, and bean dip. However, with limited gastro real estate available, I could only muster two nibbles. The black bean dip sprinkled with cotija cheese was served just warm enough and was so hearty that I wished it was cold out.

Creepy critters were unfortunately out of season during our visit to La Diferencia, so we had to settle for dramatically less crawly options. We started off with spears of Mexican-style caprese salads (left). The skewers included nopales (cactus), panela cheese, red onions, and tomatoes drizzled in a green salsa. My first encounter with nopales was extremely positive. Its okra-like texture and bell pepper-like flavor was a novel treat for my jaded palate.

Next, came molotes—fried corn cakes stuffed with cheese and jalapeños (right). The molotes were dense pockets of cheesy peppery goodness; a definite crowd pleaser.

The star of the La Diferencia show were the crepas de huitlacoche, a classic Mexico City dish of corn fungus crepes smothered in poblano salsa. Interestingly, crepes arrived in Mexico during the period of French intervention. I was expecting some major funk in the fungus department, but both the flavor and texture of this dish were very mild and delicate. While I frown upon colonization, I do approve of the French imposing their culinary values upon others. The results are almost always delightful.

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La Diferencia
10611 Sánchez Taboada, Zona Río
Tijuana, BC, Mexico
Phone: 664-634-3346

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BAJA BITES: 2 Days, 3 Cities, 18 Meals
Introduction > 1 > 2 > 3 > 4 > 5 > 6 > 7 > 8 > 9 > 10 > 11 > 12 > 13 > 14 > 15 > 16 > 17 > 18

La Querencia – Tijuana

Published by Gastronomer on August 3, 2009 in Baja Med, Mexican, Restaurant Review and Tijuana. 7 Comments

3:00 p.m. La Querencia is the birthplace of an alta cocina (haute cuisine) movement known as Baja Med—a fusion of local ingredients, Mediterranean techniques, and Asian influences. While this culinary style may seem like an unlikely amalgam of flavors and cultures, it actually makes perfect sense considering the history of Baja and its diverse inhabitants.

Miguel Angel Guerrero Yagües (pictured above) is the chef behind the Baja Med movement. A fourth generation Baja dweller, Chef Yagües runs a number of restaurants in the region and is an avid hunter, fisherman, diver, and farmer.

Ever since La Querencia opened its doors in 2006, the innovative eatery has received an abundance of press including a nod from Coleman Andrews in Gourmet magazine and a mention in the August 2006 New York Times article “It’s Hot. It’s Hip. It’s Tijuana?”

Our meal at La Querencia began with a loaf of bread served with a selection of spicy sauces. Each one contained a unique combination of chillies and aromatics designed to test our toughness and whet our appetites. From bottom to top—habanero, chile de arbol, and tomatillo.

We were also served a refreshing tepache, a fermented pineapple-based drink sweetened with brown sugar and beer. The tepache wasn’t very alcoholic because it was only fermented for three days. It was super-cooling though.

Next, a trio of carpaccio arrived; each one was a feast for the eyes and mouth. The beef tongue carpaccio (lengua – top) was sliced paper-thin, drizzled in a luscious olive oil and sea urchin cream, and topped with crispy fried onions. The zucchini carpaccio (calabasa - bottom, left) was dotted with a smoked chili confit, shards of cheese, and capers. The beet carpaccio (betabel - bottom, right) was dressed in a vinaigrette and adorned with chives and a pungent blue cheese.

With many of La Qurencia’s herbs and vegetables grown by Chef Yagües on family land, it was no surprise that the trio of carpaccio tasted amazingly fresh. Seasonality and superior local ingredients are two of the driving forces behind the Baja Med movement.

Flanked by the Sea of Cortez on the right and the Pacific Ocean on the left, Baja has access to some of the finest and most varied seafood around. Chef Yagües surprised the group with an off-the-menu creation of local scallops (callos Catalina) stuffed inside a hollowed-out cucumber, topped with sturgeon caviar, and dressed in a chipotle sauce. The flavors were pleasantly mild and clean; great seafood needs little to shine.

Our final course was a yellow cherry tomato and a slightly overcooked shrimp perched upon a corn cake and garnished with a ground chili sauce. Two point five words to describe the dish? Bobby Flay-esque.

“What I’m doing,” says Yagües, “is really a combination of Mexican, Mediterranean, and Asian. In the future, we won’t call this ‘Baja Med.’ We’ll just call it Baja California cuisine.”

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La Querecia
Calle Escuadrón 201
Tijuana, BC, Mexico
Phone: 664-972-9935

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BAJA BITES: 2 Days, 3 Cities, 18 Meals
Introduction > 1 > 2 > 3 > 4 > 5 > 6 > 7 > 8 > 9 > 10 > 11 > 12 > 13 > 14 > 15 > 16 > 17 > 18

Cheripan – Tijuana

Published by Gastronomer on July 29, 2009 in Argentinian, Restaurant Review and Tijuana. 9 Comments

2:20 p.m. While Berkeley has the Gourmet Ghetto, Tijuana has the Zona Gastronomica—a collection of the city’s finest eateries located within steps of one another. Our culinary blitz through Tijuana included several meals in and around the zona, the first of which was at Cheripan.

Opened in 2002, Cheripan serves some of the best Argentinian food in Tijuana. Think: Juicy steaks, flaky empanadas, and gooey dulce de leche. The restaurant is housed in a thoroughly modern space with an abundance of natural light, modern furniture, and clean lines. Cheripan achieves a classy ambiance without a bit of stuffiness, which makes it an ideal place for a power lunch or a hot date.

Cheripan is famous around these here parts for their martini de tamarindo (tamarind martini). This seemingly innocent sweet and sour concoction was chock full of smooth booze. To say it was potent would be a vast understatement.

Most likely unaware that our party was whoring out our gullets at a dozen or so places, Cheripan prepared an extensive feast. The appetizer spread included (clockwise from top, left) sausages, ensalada de palmitos (hearts of palm salad), empanadas, and fried sweet breads.

Although I knew I would regret it later, I ate two whole empanadas—one filled with meat and another with spinach and cheese. The puffy golden parcels were just too appealing to resist.

Our main course was Mexican entrana (skirt steak) with pickled onions. The steak was roaringly rare and tender to the tooth.

To cap off our stellar Argentinian meal, we were served a luscious flan topped with milk candy and accented with Chantilly cream…

And adorable bite-sized Napoleons layered with dulce de leche and slivered almonds. I love being spoiled.

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Cheripan
Escuadron 201, No. 3151 Colonia Aviacion
Zona Gastronomica, Tijuana
Phone: 619-308-7656 (U.S.)

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BAJA BITES: 2 Days, 3 Cities, 18 Meals
Introduction > 1 > 2 > 3 > 4 > 5 > 6 > 7 > 8 > 9 > 10 > 11 > 12 > 13 > 14 > 15 > 16 > 17 > 18

Lorca Restaurante – Tijuana

Published by Gastronomer on July 27, 2009 in Restaurant Review, Spanish and Tijuana. 6 Comments

1:45 p.m. It’s a given that Tijuana will have superb tacos, but a thoroughly authentic Spanish restaurant? Well, that’s just gravy, baby. Granada-born chef Margarita Prieto’s Lorca Restaurante brings Andalusian cuisine to Tijuana in a cool, calm, and decidedly European space. The restaurant’s specialties include roasted meats, hotpots, stews, and seafood prepared using age-old family recipes. Lorca is Chef Margarita’s maiden name.

To make our food and media posse feel muy especial, the Chef prepared an incredibly fragrant and undeniably decadent lechón for our visit. A hug and a kiss on the cheek are fine Spanish pleasantries, but nothing says “Welcome!” quite like a whole roasted piglet fresh out of the pit.

To accompany the crispy-skinned and moist-meated piglet, Chef Margarita prepared paella Valenciana (Valencian paella) and papas a lo pobre (potatoes sauteed with olive oil, salt, and bell peppers). All three dishes were totally fresh and perfectly seasoned, magically transporting our taste buds from Tijuana to Spain.

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Lorca
Calle Brasil 8630
Tijuana, B.C., Mexico
Phone: 664-634-0366

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BAJA BITES: 2 Days, 3 Cities, 18 Meals
Introduction > 1 > 2 > 3 > 4 > 5 > 6 > 7 > 8 > 9 > 10 > 11 > 12 > 13 > 14 > 15 > 16 > 17 > 18