Archive for the 'Markets' Category

Discovering Downtown One Bite at a Time: Grand Central Market, Chinatown, and Olvera Street

Grand Central Market - Los Angeles

The weather in Los Angeles was even more gorgeous than usual this past weekend, so The Astronomer and I spent much of it outside soaking in the sunshine. On Saturday afternoon, I curated an urban hike through downtown that included plenty to see and eat.

Our first stop was at Grand Central Market, a bustling place where people gather to eat, meet, and shop. The energy inside was palpable, and everything gleamed with deliciousness.

Sarita's Pupuseria - Grand Central Market - Los Angeles

After perusing the aisles, hemming, hawing, and gawking, we finally chose to sit down for a bite at Sarita’s Pupuseria. Here, the Salvadoran specialty made of thick corn tortillas stuffed with cheeses and meats is made from scratch and griddled to order.

Sarita's Pupuseria - Grand Central Market - Los Angeles

Our pork- and cheese-stuffed pupusa ($2.50) arrived after a ten minute wait.  A watery tomato salsa and curtido, a lightly fermented cabbage slaw with red chilies and vinegar, were available at the counter for us to garnish as we pleased.

The warm pupusa was crisp and golden on the outside and oozed with cheese and shredded pork within. Even with the curtido and salsa curbing the pupusa’s richness, one was more than enough for the two of us. It was muy rico!

Continue reading ‘Discovering Downtown One Bite at a Time: Grand Central Market, Chinatown, and Olvera Street’

Eataly – New York City

Eataly - New York City

Before departing New York City for the temperate pastures of Los Angeles, The Astronomer, Cousin Jackie, and I grabbed a quick lunch at Eataly. The Italian food hall, which is modeled after the original Eataly in Turin, boasts 36,500 square feet of gustatory and sensory pleasure.

The folks behind this temple of Italian food are none other than restaurateurs Joseph Bastianich and Mario Batali. Man, these guys sure have their fingers on the pulse when it comes to feeding the masses all things Italian.

Eataly - New York City

The humongous space was crammed with people of all stripes during lunchtime, which made navigating the various restaurants and stands less pleasurable than I would have liked. While I don’t mind standing elbow to elbow with strangers on the subways and streets, I’d much rather not have to fight for my lunch.

Our initial plan was to dine at La Pizza & La Pasta, but the hour-long wait didn’t fit into our schedules. Instead, we dined picnic style on various meats, cheeses, and breads that we procured throughout the market. My favorite stop was at the cured meat stand. The man behind the counter was knowledgeable, opinionated, and offered up plenty of samples to guide our taste buds.

Eataly - New York City

The cheese counter was equally robust, with over 400 varieties of regional Italian cheeses.

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Mercado Central – Valencia

Mercado Central de Valencia

During much of our visit to Spain, the weather was unseasonably gray, cold, and rainy.  Thus the moment I stepped off the train in Valencia and was greeted by golden rays, my heart filled with joy, like only a southern California gal’s could.  Thankfully, the weather remained nice and mild for our entire stay, keeping me perfectly warm and sun soaked.

Mercado Central de Valencia

The Astronomer and I visited the Mercado Central (central market) on our first full day in Valencia. Built in the early twentieth century, the market was bathed in an abundance of natural light and decorated with colorful ceramics and mosaics at every turn. The domed ceiling, with its sky-high windows, was especially gorgeous.

Mercado Central de Valencia

Nearly all of the vendors were hawking some sort of raw ingredient, like meat, cheeses,  spices, or produce. A small number sold traditional groceries and household items. Unlike the Boqueria in Barcelona, not a single stall sold prepared foods. The entire space was impeccably clean, meat and seafood stalls included.

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Mitsuwa Marketplace – Los Angeles (Torrance)

Back in November, gas•tron•o•my reader Anh tipped me off to Mitsuwa Markeplace after I whined about the frozen deconstructed sushi I endured at Mako Bowl in Pasadena. “Go to Mitsuwa Marketplace, Cathy!” encouraged Anh. “They’ve probably got the most decent grocery store sushi I’ve ever seen.”

When the running gods cursed me recently with a shoddy pair of running shoes that needed returning in Torrance,  the food gods smiled down and reminded me of Mitsuwa nearby. Hip, hip, hooray.

Mitsuwa Marktplace is part grocery store and part food court—The Astronomer and I explored both on our afternoon visit. After scanning the available eating options, we began our feast at Mifune.

The life-like plastic food displays along each of the vendors’ kiosks were very helpful in determining where and what to eat. For a measly $6.50 we received a bowl of pork katsu curry and a hot bowl of wakame udon.

Both the pork katsu curry and wakame udon were solid. In all honesty, at $6.50 a pop, it’d be silly to complain. The pork katsu had a nice, crisp exterior, while the smooth curry was spicy and mildly sweet. I’m always surprised by how creamy Japanese curry is each time I eat it.

The wakame udon tasted really healthy—clear broth with lots of seaweed floating about. The udon noodles had a pleasantly firm bite.

Mifune on Urbanspoon

Mifune Restaurant at Mitsuwa Marketplace in Los Angeles

After our meal at Mifune, we were feeling pretty stuffed. To make room for more Japanese goodness, The Astronomer and I explored the grocery store section of the marketplace. I picked up some rice crackers (the ones wrapped in nori were bomb), while The Astronomer went for some Pocky.

Next, we grabbed some sushi at Daikichi, Mitsuwa’s only sushi vendor. As promised by Anh, the selection appeared to be fresh and vibrant.

After a bit of hemming and hawing, I finally settled on a spicy tuna roll ($4.99) and some inari ($4.50). The spicy tuna roll was the spiciest spicy tuna roll The Astronomer and I have ever consumed. Our eyes were seriously watering with each tasty bite. The plump little inaris were filled with sweet and vinegary rice. There’s something so simple and satisfying about inari that I can’t resist.

Mitsuwa Marketplace has great energy and excellent eats; this is the way food courts should be. Sha sha.

Daikichi Mitsuwa on Urbanspoon

Daikichi at Mitsuwa Marketplace in Los Angeles

Mitsuwa Markeplace
21515 Western Avenue
Torrance, CA 90501
Phone: 310-782-0335

Mitsuwa Marketplace on Urbanspoon

Salcedo Community Market

On our final morning in Manila, The Astronomer and I visited the Salcedo Community Market, while Nina checked out a historical part of the city called Intramuros and Cathy visited a pimped-out Chinese cemetery.

Here’s a bit about the market from an article written by Robyn Eckhardt:

When it comes to the cuisines of southeast Asia, the Philippines is better known for balut (half-hatched duck eggs) and the local fast-food franchise Jollibee than any major gourmet experience. But spend a Saturday morning at Salcedo Community Market in Manila’s business district and you’ll be wondering why the cuisine of this archipelago nation has been overlooked for so long.

Close to 140 stalls set up each week in a shaded carpark, ready to take its customers – bejeweled socialites, shopping list-toting housewives, families, ex-pats and nearby call-center workers just off the night shift – on a gastronomic tour of the Philippines. Whether you’re in search of rare seasonal produce or pre-prepared specialties from the provinces, a leisurely approach is recommended. Devote a few hours to grazing the market’s aisles, people-watching, and sharing sit-down fare at the market’s undercover communal tables.

It was too early in the morning for blackened fish, but they smelled excellent.

An array of Pinoy desserts. Due to the employment of similar ingredients including coconut, banana, rice flour, taro and sesame seeds, I thought that Pinoy treats tasted very similar to Vietnamese ones. I really liked the abundance of free samples at the market. I felt like I was at Costco.

The Astronomer was hooked on these mango cookies after one sample. Even though they cost a pretty peso, he splurged and bought a box. The taste and texture of these cookies were reminiscent of Fig Newtons, but more mango and not so much fig. Duh.

Organic produce! Man, this stand brought be back to the days when I used to live in Oakland, California and shopped at the farmer’s market under the overpass on Lakeshore. Manila, I am totally impressed.

The Astronomer and I tried a sample of the curry ice cream. It was definitely more sweet than spicy, and not addictive enough to procure an entire scoop. In my mind, only Capogiro can get away with flavors this funky.

I don’t know about you, but this reeks of fake wagyu to me. Turning precious wagyu into shawarma filling and dousing it with a creamy sauce is a travesty (and a big ‘ol waste). I think that the only proper way to eat waygu is unadorned and rare like at Alinea in Chicago.

After circling the market once to see what was available, The Astronomer and I started chowing down. The Astronomer’s first pick of the day was a tuna empanada. I personally would have gone for chorizo, but he rationed that the tuna would probably taste better cold.

I started the day with some Sweedish meatballs drenched in gravy. Clearly, I was in a strange mood. They were larger than golf balls and and meaty as heck, but not spectacular in any way.

Next, The Astronomer purchased a vegetable ukoy or fritter. It would have tasted loads better hot out of the fryer, but the soy and vinegar sauce saved it.

I indulged in some pritson next, which was comprised of roasted piglet and fresh cumber spears wrapped in a crepe-like pancake with hoisin sauce. Really, really good. I like how the Filipinos have no qualms about animal carcases. In fact, it was the sight of the whole animal that attracted me to this stand.

A huge jackfruit. I placed my Nalgene next to it to really get the sense of its enormity.

In bloom!

Next, The Astronomer and I shared some lechon baca—beef lechon. Once again, a whole animal carcass was present and it didn’t seem to faze anyone. I like that! After we placed our order, one of the people running the stand approached the roasting cow and cut us off a bit. Talk about fresh meat.

Mmm…carne! The meat was ridiculously tender. Slow roasting over charcoal does wonders.

And lastly, a little something sweet called piaya—round wheat flour flat breads filled with smoky muscovado sugar and sprinkled with sesame seeds. Great flaky texture and not too sweet. A delightful conclusion to our market excursion.

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