Nov 2013

“Cold Pot Fish” at Yu Yue Men Leng Guo Yu (and getting ma la wasted) – Chengdu

Yu Yue Men Leng Guo Yu Hot Pot Restaurant - Chengdu

Do Chengdu residents eat spicy, numbing, oil-slicked delights at every meal? The Astronomer and I often wondered this during our Sichuan stay. Though we were never able to confirm locals’ dining habits, we consciously dedicated every meal to the stuff that burns, really burns, because we wanted to experience Chengdu’s cuisine to the fullest.

The spiciest meal of the trip, the one that made me feel downright intoxicated from all the chilies and peppercorns, was at Yu Yue Men Leng Guo Yu*, an emporium of communal dining.

Yu Yue Men Leng Guo Yu Hot Pot Restaurant - Chengdu

The only dish served here is “Cold Pot Fish” (leng guo yu), a Sichuan specialty in which perfectly cooked fish fillets, usually Silver Carp, are served in a “cold” hot pot to begin; the broth’s actual temperature is lukewarm. The hot pot’s burners are turned on when all of the fish has been eaten to avoid over-cooking the fish. Then, it’s a traditional hot pot experience complete with veggies, noodles, meat, and the like!

Yu Yue Men Leng Guo Yu Hot Pot Restaurant - Chengdu

In a futile attempt to keep the avalanche of numbing spice at bay, I sipped on Chinese Sunny-D, while The Astronomer chugged some beer.

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Nov 2013

Quintessential Sichuan Noodles and Dumplings Served with a Smile at Ren Yi Shui Jiao – Chengdu

Ren Yi Shui Jiao – Chengdu

The Astronomer and I traversed large swaths of Chengdu seeking out all that burns, numbs, and thrills during our much-too-short stay, but it was a low-key, family-run restaurant a stone’s throw from our hotel that delighted us most.

Named after Confucian principles (ren meaning kindness and yi meaning loyalty or trust), Ren Yi Shui Jiao specializes in two of my all-time favorite foods: noodles and dumplings (shui jiao). It was the perfect spot to fuel up every morning before playing with pandas and, truth be told, fueling up elsewhere. Such is life while on vacation.

Ren Yi Shui Jiao – Chengdu

The restaurant was wonderfully quiet during the morning hours, with ladies folding dumplings in the back, cooks simmering soups in the kitchen, and solo diners burying their noses in noodles. The mood of the place made us feel relaxed, while smiles on everyone’s faces made us feel welcomed.

Ren Yi Shui Jiao – Chengdu

Ordering food was a breeze thanks to the extensive picture menu hanging near the doorway. I wanted one of everything.

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Nov 2013

Lozzi Donuts & Coffee – Chengdu

Lozzi Donuts & Coffee - Chengdu

Doughnuts have a way of finding me, even when I’m in China.

While strolling along the wide boulevards of Chengdu, walking from one restaurant to the next, no doubt, The Astronomer and I stumbled upon Lozzi Donuts & Coffee. Even though I knew in my gut that these deep-fried wares weren’t worth my precious stomach real estate, curiosity got the best of me and in we went.

Lozzi Donuts & Coffee - Chengdu

Lozzi’s brightly-lit and cutely appointed shop had me feeling hopeful about the doughnuts on offer. Each of the nearly three dozen varieties boasted awesome toppings and even more awesome names. “Banana James,” anyone? How ’bout “Fundy Talk”?

I was particularly intrigued by the savory doughnuts, “Spicy Fitness” and “Mwat Fitness,” which were garnished with pork floss, but The Astronomer gave me a disapproving look and steered me in a different direction.

Lozzi Donuts & Coffee - Chengdu

After much hemming, hawing, and perusing, I finally settled on two doughnuts that were presented in a neat box featuring Lady Liberty and a gramophone.
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