Dec 2012

The Serving Spoon – Los Angeles (Inglewood)

The Serving Spoon - Inglewood

Opened in 1982 by Harold E. Sparks, The Serving Spoon is a full-service diner serving Southern classics in a brightly-lit and energetic room. The restaurant, by the way, is named after a diner that was featured on the soap opera “All My Children,” Mr. Sparks’ favorite afternoon indulgence. Today the restaurant is run by his daughter and son-in-law.

The Serving Spoon - Inglewood

While the menu reads as nearly identical to those at other soul food spots in town, one whiff of the kitchen’s cooking and I understood immediately that there was something extra special happening here.

The Serving Spoon - Inglewood

Take for instance “Cookie’s Wings & Waffle,” the finest pairing of chicken and waffles that I’ve ever encountered. The well-seasoned cluck, expertly fried and outstandingly juicy, came together like a dream with the cinnamon-dusted waffle, which hit an intriguing savory note. Eaten in tandem, the flavors were rounded and harmonious—a thrilling combination of sweet, salty, and umami.

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Dec 2012

Sanuki No Sato – Los Angeles (Gardena)

Sanuki No Sato - Gardena

Named after an old Japanese province on the island of Shikoku with the same boundaries as modern Kagawa Prefecture, Sanuki No Sato is famous for its udon, chubby wheat-based noodles served hot or cold.

Sanuki No Sato - Gardena

The 20-year-old dining room feels as sturdy as ever, while service is swiftly executed by a team of kimono-donning waitresses.

Sanuki No Sato - Gardena

The menu here features numerous small plates and sushi, but we zeroed in on Chef Moriaki Miyahira’s spectacularly slurp-worthy udon. To truly appreciate the noodles’ texture and nuances, I insisted on a bowl of the cold preparation. As soul-warming and comforting as noodle soups can be, hot broth tends to diminish udon’s impressive bite.
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Dec 2012

Candy Cane Pinwheels

Candy Cane Pinwheels

Considering my enthusiasm for all things pepperminty at this time of year, I’m surprised that this recipe for Candy Cane Pinwheels didn’t catch my eye straightaway when I perused the America’s Test Kitchen “Holiday Cookies” special issue last year. Upon a more careful reading this year, these mesmerizing swirls of pretty pink peppermint demanded to be baked.

With peppermint candies and extract leftover from last year’s Homemade Candy Cane Joe-Joe’s experiment still fresh in the pantry and a standing mixer at the ready, the cookie dough came together in a relative snap. I was slightly worried about handling the dough due to the unseasonably warm weather in Los Angeles and my palms’ propensity for perspiring, but thankfully it was sturdy enough to handle all the ambient conditions with ease.

The resulting pinwheels were as delightful to eat as they were to behold. The pink swirls pumped up with peppermint candies were complemented by the buttery shortbread. These tasted best fresh from the oven, when the edges were crisp and the innards still soft.

  • 3 cups all-purpose flour (15 ounces)
  • 3/4 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 16 tablespoons (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 large egg, room temperature
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 teaspoon peppermint extract
  • 1/2 cup finely ground peppermint candies (about 20)
  • 6 drops red food coloring

Candy Cane Pinwheels

Whisk flour, baking powder, and salt in bowl. Set aside.

With electric mixer on medium-high speed, beat butter and sugar until light and fluffy, 2 minutes. Beat in egg and vanilla until incorporated. Reduce speed to low, add flour mixture, and mix until dough forms. Remove half of the dough (1 pound) from bowl and reserve.

Candy Cane Pinwheels

Add peppermint extract, candy, and food coloring to remaining dough and mix until combined.

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