Apr 2012

Elite Restaurant – Monterey Park

Elite Restaurant - Dim Sum - Monterey Park

Waiting for a table at Elite on a weekend afternoon tests one’s dedication to the sport of dim sum. The bellies that gather here are a tenacious bunch; they don’t seem to mind waiting an hour or even two so long as the food is tops when their number finally gets called.

Arriving soon after the restaurant opens can dramatically improve wait times, but The Astronomer and I relish sleeping in on weekends, so we resigned ourselves to thumb twiddling, menu gazing, and Dollar Store perusing (there’s one next door).

Elite Restaurant - Dim Sum - Monterey Park

Once we were finally seated, some ninety minutes after we arrived, it was time to do what we do best—over-order and overeat. What’s unique about the dim sum experience here is the lack of carts roaming the dining room. We were presented with a picture menu and an order form as soon as we sat down.

Elite Restaurant - Dim Sum - Monterey Park

I’ve always loved the chaos of traditional dim sum, but found this approach quite appealing. Not only were my favorite dishes prepared to order, but I wasn’t tempted to waste space on lesser dishes just because the cart came by. I also liked that I didn’t have to scan the room searching for the lone lady serving chicken feet. A simple tick mark on the form and voila, steaming hot chicken feet appeared at the table. Cart-less dim sum certainly has its merits.

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Apr 2012

Café Dulcé – Los Angeles (Downtown)

Cafe Dulce - Los Angeles - Little Tokyo

I didn’t mean to binge on doughnuts at Café Dulcé. The plan was to stop in for a single green tea doughnut, specially priced at just a dollar in celebration of the shop’s first birthday, and head to Daikokuya for ramen with family right after.

My good intentions went out the window once I set foot inside the shop and caught a glimpse of the dessert-lined shelves. As my eyes wandered from row to row, one treat became two, two became three, and well, let’s just say things didn’t go exactly according to plan. Visiting a bakery on an empty stomach…dangerous.

Cafe Dulce - Los Angeles - Little Tokyo

I had to try the bacon doughnut hole ($1), a three bite wonder of pillowy dough smothered in sweet icing and dotted with smoky bacon shards. The portion was petite, while the flavor and texture were just right.

Cafe Dulce - Los Angeles - Little Tokyo

The brick toast ($3.50) called out to The Astronomer and he couldn’t resist its charms. The hefty block o’ bread was considerately sliced into nine perfectly pluckable pieces, making it easier for us to share without utensils. I couldn’t decide which bites were best, the ones with caramelized edges or the central segments of pure soft sweet dough.

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Apr 2012

Braised Rabbit with Pappardelle

Braised Rabbit with Noodles

The Astronomer and I got married exactly two years ago today, under sunny L.A. skies with our family and friends around us. It was one of the happiest days of my life, one that never fails to put a huge and goofy smile on my face every time I think about it.

With our second anniversary upon us, I wanted to gift The Astronomer something in line with tradition, but with an edible spin. For our first anniversary, I made two varieties of Vietnamese spring rolls, goi cuon and bo bia, to represent paper. Since it is customary to bestow cotton upon one’s beloved in recognition of the second anniversary, I briefly contemplated whipping up some cotton candy, but ultimately decided to prepare a feast of cottontail.

For my first foray into rabbit cookery, I chose this straightforward recipe for Braised Rabbit with Egg Noodles from the May 2003 issue of Gourmet. Braising, a technique that calls for meat to be seared at a high temperature and then finished in a covered pot with liquid, practically guarantees moist meat and robust flavors. It sounded like the kind of forgiving recipe that would be ideal for this first timer.

After bathing in an aromatic brew of onions, garlic, orange zest, cinnamon, and red wine, the meat was fork-tender while the sauce was deeply savory with mellow citrus notes. The flavors whisked our taste buds away to the Mediterranean. Dinner was served outside on our picnic table, with snappy asparagus on the side and glasses of red wine to sip. The Astronomer requested seconds.

  • 1 (2 1/2- to 3 1/2-pound) rabbit, cut into 6-8 pieces
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 medium onions, halved lengthwise and then cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch slices
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 2 (4- by 1-inch) strips fresh orange zest
  • 1 (3- to 4-inch) cinnamon stick
  • 2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California
  • 1/2 cup dry red wine
  • 2 cups canned diced tomatoes
  • 1/2 cup water or chicken broth
  • 8 ounces dried pappardelle, tagliatelle, or fettuccine
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)

Braised Rabbit with Noodles

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Pat rabbit pieces dry and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a deep 12-inch ovenproof skillet (preferably with a lid) or a 5-quart wide heavy pot over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown rabbit in 2 batches, turning over once, about 6 minutes per batch. Transfer as browned to a plate.

Braised Rabbit with Noodles

Reduce heat to moderate and cook onions, garlic, zest, cinnamon stick, and bay leaves in remaining 2 tablespoons oil, stirring frequently, until onions are beginning to brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Add wine and deglaze skillet by boiling, stirring and scraping up any brown bits, until wine is reduced by about half, about 2 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, water, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper.

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