Dec 2010

Sugarfish by Sushi Nozawa – Los Angeles (Downtown)

sugarFISH by sushi nozawa

The first time The Astronomer and I dined at Sugarfish by Sushi Nozawa, we were guests of the restaurant and were treated to a magnificent experience—the fish was impeccable and service was a dream. While I could have written a glowing review based on my initial visit, I wanted to dine here a second time to make sure that my meal wasn’t an anomaly reserved for blogger-types wielding unusually large cameras.

The Astronomer and I returned to the restaurant late last week with our friends Andrew and Miri. We were excited to introduce them to Chef Kazunori Nozawa‘s “Trust Me” style of sushi that has made him a notorious character in the L.A. sushi scene. In Chef Nozawa’s book, there is no greater offense than serving mayo-laden rolls heavy with bells and whistles. Instead, he prepares pristine fishes, minimally fussed and buttery on the tongue.

sugarFISH by sushi nozawa

With three branches across the city, Sugarfish aims to bring an authentic Nozawa experience to the discerning masses. The three “Trust Me” menus are priced markedly lower than a meal at the chef’s original Studio City outlet. Sugarfish is able to keep prices in check by taking advantage of the chef’s personal contacts with fish vendors, preparing the fish efficiently in a kitchen rather than behind a sushi bar, streamlining the menu to reduce waste, and serving diners at breakneck speed.

Jonathan Gold wrote back in 2008 that “the elapsed time between the second you sit down and the moment you are handed your check is about 15 minutes, 20 tops. Sugarfish is reasonably priced for sushi, but per minute, it may be one of the most expensive restaurants in town.” While our experience wasn’t that hurried, Mr. Gold makes a very valid point.

sugarFISH by sushi nozawa

Pricing and pacing aside, the quality of food at Sugarfish is truly unparalleled. Every cut of fish served in the restaurant is handpicked by Chef Nozawa, fresh rice is made every 30 minutes, and all the sauces are prepared from scratch. Now, if they didn’t serve it up so gosh darn quickly, I’d be in heaven.

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Dec 2010

Bouchon Bakery – Las Vegas (The Venetian)

Bouchon Bakery - Las Vegas

After lunching at Lotus of Siam, The Astronomer and I explored two new additions to the Las Vegas strip—the City Center and the Aria Resort and Casino. It seems to me that Vegas developers will not sleep until every casino has its own Gucci outlet and Wolfgang Puck eatery. What a yawn. After walking nearly the entire length of The Strip, The Astronomer and I were due for an energizing snack. We stopped by Bouchon Bakery located inside The Venetian for a quick pre-dinner bite.

Bouchon Bakery - Las Vegas

While I’ve eaten at Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry and Ad Hoc, this was my first time visiting his Parisian boulangerie-inspired bakery. Tucked beside the theater and steps away from the casino floor, Bouchon Bakery’s atmosphere was decidedly uninspiring. The air smelled of cigarette smoke mingled with air conditioning, and not a trace of the aroma of freshly baked pastries could be detected. Considering the resources available at a casino like this, the bakery felt more like an ordinary snack bar than a temple of baked goods. On an upbeat note, I really dug The Phantom of the Opera tunes piping out of the speakers. I bet they don’t have that in Yountville!

Bouchon Bakery - Las Vegas

Since it was Halloween weekend, quite a few of the treats were dressed up in holiday garb. I picked out a pumpkin-shaped TKO—Thomas Keller Oreo ($3.25). According to the bakery’s website, Oreo cookies are one of Thomas Keller’s favorite snacks. His upscale version employs a chocolate sable cookie dough and a white chocolate ganache filling.

The Keller-fied Oreo was a total knock out. The cookie’s texture was spot on, while the cream was appealingly smooth. A slight touch of salt kept the Oreo’s sweetness in check. If there’s one thing that Thomas Keller is known for, “it’s all about finesse.”

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Dec 2010

Artisanal L.A.: Five Home Grown Gift Ideas

Artisanal LA - December 2010

Since I think of gift giving as an opportunity to impose my values upon others, it should come as no surprise that my loved ones usually receive one of three things: a food-related book, a restaurant gift certificate, or something edible. I make adjustments here and there for those not as food oriented as me, but for the most part, these are my go-to gifts.

At this past weekend’s Artisanal LA event, I managed to cross several people off my list thanks to the wonderful selection of local, sustainable, and handmade edibles for sale. These gifts not only taste great, but they also support the local economy and small-scale producers. Win-win, I say! Here’s a list of five fabulous food gifts and the talented vendors behind them…

Artisanal L.A. - December 2010

The first two people that I had the pleasure of meeting at the event were Debra and Stephanie Shaiken. The mother-daughter duo run an up-and-coming pie business in Santa Monica. Crust by Stephanie Jayne specializes in homey and comforting creations that are executed with skill and refinement.

Artisanal L.A. - December 2010

I tasted three of Crust’s pies this afternoon including the Fleur de Sel Caramel Tart (dark chocolate ganache, salted caramel, cracker brittle), the Missouri Butter Pie (a St. Louis classic), and the Campfire S’more Pie (milk chocolate ganache, homemade graham cracker, toasted from scratch marshmallows). All three were terrific, but my sweet-salty loving taste buds couldn’t get enough of the Fleur de Sel Caramel Tart. These 9-inch pies ($25) would be a great addition to any holiday spread and also make fine hostess gifts.

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