Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Restaurant Review

10 Mar 2010

Jitlada – Los Angeles (Hollywood)

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My first dinner at Jitlada was a bit of a blur. Our party was thirty something large, and each of the fifteen dishes that we ate were chosen beforehand by the host. All I remember from that evening was socializing with a lot of interesting people and being treated to an avalanche of bold, sweat-inducing flavors. I’m quite certain that Jitlada’s jungle curry forever changed the landscape of my taste buds that night.

I returned to the temple of Southern Thai cuisine last week with a smaller but equally interesting group of eaters. Joining The Astronomer and me were Danny of Kung Food Panda, Mike of Pepsi Monster, Hong of Ravenous Couple, and Bill of Street Gourmet LA. This time around, we ordered our personal favorites and made room for the headliners making waves in numerous magazines, newspapers, and television programs. Tall cups of Thai iced tea and super-sized bottles of Singha were in order to quell the inevitable burning.

Jazz Singsanong, the restaurant’s infectiously hospitable owner, was on hand to help us navigate the daunting menu. The warmth that she exudes is as much a part of the Jitlada dining experience as the food that comes out of the kitchen. Ms. Singsanong is the heart of the restaurant, while her brother Tui’s cooking is the soul.

The first dish to arrive was the New Zealand green mussels. The meaty little devils were bathed in a boiling broth of aromatics including Thai basil, lemongrass, garlic, and dried red chilies. After we polished off the mussels, the broth was ladled into bowls and slurped heartily.

Based on Jo of My Last Bite’s recommendation, we ordered the coconut, lotus, and red snapper soup. The broth was fragrant, rich, and mildly spicy due to an abundance of coconut milk and a dabble of warm chilies. The hunks of snapper were tender and just cooked through.

The crispy morning glory salad was as satisfying as I remembered. Morning glory is a staple in the Vietnamese kitchen as well; however, my people never thought to deep fry the stalky greens! The dressing was reminiscent of another Vietnamese staple—nuoc cham. I love it when neighboring countries influence each other’s cuisine.

There’s something about Jitlada’s fish balls stuffed with salted duck eggs that I can’t get enough of. Maybe it’s the appealingly chewy texture of the fish ball? Or the perfectly spiced green curry that it’s swimming in? Anyway, eating a fish-cake-encased yolk is really quite dreamy.

The frog curry that Bill suggested was challengingly spicy but not overly so. Frog isn’t the most satisfying protein due to its bony structure and lack of meat, but the curry was so lovely and creamy that I didn’t even care.

The crispy fried fish were accompanied by shards of equally crunchy basil. While this dish was texturally interesting, it didn’t have as much depth of flavor as the rest of our spread.

At the recommendation of Jazz, we ordered a plate of “crying tiger.” The pieces of pork were aggressively seasoned and had a dry, jerky-like quality to them. The spicy sauce served on the side livened up everything it was drizzled on. By the way, Chef Curtis Stone will be waxing poetic about this dish on the Food Network’s “The Best Thing I Ever Ate” later this month.

The final savory course of the night was the fish kidney curry, one of Jonathan Gold’s 99 Things to Eat in L.A. Before You Die. While most Thai curries are consumed with rice, this one was served with a fluffy omelet. A bowl of crisp vegetables dunked in shaved ice was also on hand to balance out the curry’s spiciness.

The pool of funk contained minced shrimp, chunks of pumpkin, and grilled sardines, but not a single trace of kidneys. According to Jazz, Eric M., the man who translated Jitlada’s menu years ago, misinterpreted the Thai words for “kidney fish” as “fish kidneys.” Hence, there were no actual kidneys floating about. Darn! The kidney fish curry was so spicy that I teared up some.

For dessert, Jazz treated our group to two special sweets. The first was a delicate pumpkin custard that reminded me of flan.

And second, her rendition of Singaporean kaya toast. The coconut jam was made fresh, served warm, and superbly sweet. She encouraged us to smother our little squares of white bread with more than a reasonable amount of jam. I love that woman.

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Jitlada
5233 W. Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90027
Phone: 323-663-3104

Restaurant Review

08 Mar 2010

Church & State – Los Angeles (Downtown)

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There’s really no need for me to recount the wonderful dinner I had at Church & State last week. By now, every blogger, critic, and casual eater knows that the downtown bistro is a gem. And more importantly, the man who made the restaurant what it is today has one foot out the door. Like I said, there’s really no reason for me to write about this place again, except that I totally can’t help myself—Church & State is so incredibly good!

I sat down to a most satisfactory feast with The Astronomer, my mom, and D takes a B on the evening following Chef Walter Manzke’s announcement that he would be leaving the restaurant. We arrived right as the doors opened for dinner service. I usually don’t sup until the sun has fully set, but we had tickets to The Lake Show this evening, so it was imperative not to miss the opening tip-off (and the celebrity sightings).

To start, complimentary gougères for the entire table. The cheesy poofs were warm, light, and delectable.

Next, crusty baguettes, soft butter, and coarse sea salt arrived at the table. The simple spread was so satisfying that we inhaled it in mere minutes.

Our first starter was the Oreilles de Cochon—crispy pig’s ears with a Bearnaise sauce ($8). Unlike the chewy specimens I’ve sampled in the past, Chef Manzke’s ears were vein-less, gelatinous, and had a velvety finish. The thin batter coating the ears provided a crisp and salty complement to the unmistakable essence of ear.

The Escargots de Bourgogne, snails baked in garlic and parsley butter ($13), was as good as ever. After a lot of trial and error, I’ve come to the conclusion that the best way to consume these little vessels is to gingerly peel the puff pastry from the ramekin, dunk it with abandon into the hot and garlicky butter, then scoop the snail and butter-soaked pastry onto the spoon and into one’s mouth. It’s a lot of mass, but the flavors cannot be beat. Be sure to swipe the house baguette through the ramekin afterwards so as not to waste a drop of butter.

My favorite course of the evening was the Assiette de Charcuterie—a selection of artisan and housemade pâtés, terrines, and saucisson sec ($18). The nearly three-foot long plank was beautiful to behold and crazy-delicious to consume. The pork rillettes with prune confiture were rustic and delightful, as were the various duck, pork, and rabbit pates. The most memorable was the goose liver pate with chives and coarse salt. I drifted off to a very special place with each bite. Balancing out the richness were briny olives, cornichons, pickled vegetables, dijon mustard, and little radishes swiped with butter. Heaven on a plank.

After indulging in three appetizers and countless loaves of bread, we shared two entrees. The Astronomer picked the short ribs ($26), which were served with roasted carrots, mushrooms, pearl onions, and a heap of pureed potatoes. The meat was so tender that a plunge of the fork was all that was needed to tear off a hunk. This is comfort food at its best.

The seared duck breast with Brussels sprouts and candied kumquats ($24) was also expertly prepared. I loved how well the tart little fruits mingled with the duck’s natural juices.

With Church & State’s kitchen in flux, I was pleased to take in one final meal with Chef Manzke running the show. It’s uncertain what the future will hold for both the Chef and the restaurant. However, one thing is for sure—with Chef Manzke manning the stoves, Church & State is nothing short of spectacular.

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Church & State
1850 Industrial Street
Los Angeles, CA 90021
Phone: 213-405-1434

Now Closed

04 Mar 2010

Starry Kitchen – Los Angeles (Downtown)

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I, like countless others, intended to eat at Starry Kitchen when it was an underground supper club in North Hollywood. I, like countless others, kept procrastinating until it was too late. I, like countless others, now must lunch downtown in order to experience the culinary magic.

Walking through the doors of the new Starry Kitchen late last week, the first thing I noticed was Nguyen Tran’s smiling face. The line of worker bees was stretched almost out the door, and in the midst of it all was a cool, calm, and collected Nguyen explaining the drill and moving the crowd along. It’s this kind of genuine interaction and customer care that makes Starry Kitchen really special. That, and the interesting and fresh food that Nguyen’s wife Thi whips up in the kitchen.

Starry Kitchen, which is named after Thi’s favorite Hong Kong soap opera, is located in the courtyard of the California Plaza building. The place is only open for lunch at the moment, but Thi and Nguyen hope to extend service through dinner on Thursdays and Fridays in the future.

Whereas the NoHo crowd was mostly comprised of media-savvy mavens, the one downtown is made up of business-minded professionals. It’s been years since I’ve been a part of the rat race, so it was a treat to people gawk watch.

“Pick your protein, then pick your vessel,” stated the adorable chalkboard menu. Most lunch combos also include a side of something carb-related. The menu rotates each week, so I was stoked to drop in when both the beloved crispy tofu balls and the Vietnamese braised coconut pork were on offer.

The Astronomer ordered the Vietnamese braised coconut pork in a banh mi sandwich with a side of Korean japchae noodles ($7.50). The pork was shredded, moist, and heavy on ginger, while the bread was soft yet sturdy. The bevy of veggies inside were snappy and lightly pickled. The Astronomer thought that the sandwich was very tasty, but wouldn’t call it a proper banh mi due to the mild veggies. We both agreed that the pork could’ve used a heavy dose of fish sauce and plenty more chunks of blubbery fat—two essential components of the classic Vietnamese dish thit kho. The noodles were more than competent.

I ordered the crispy tofu balls in a wrap with a side of pineapple fried rice ($7.50). I wasn’t sure what to expect as I bit into the fluorescent green orb, but the flavors and textures were totally to my liking. Little kernels of corn provided a touch of sweetness and texture to the balls. The wrap and its various fresh and healthy components reminded me of the macrobiotic fare I downed at M Cafe de Chaya not too long ago. I loved the curry flavor of the pineapple fried rice.

I usually brown-bagged it during my days running in the Philadelphia rat race, but then again, my choices included the yawn-inducing Au Bon Pain and a local chain called Marathon Grill. If Starry Kitchen moved in or around my building, I’d jump on it.

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Starry Kitchen
350 South Grand Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90071
Phone: 213-617-3474