Dec 2009

Pumpkin Gingerbread Trifle

PUMPKIN GINGERBREAD TRIFLE

As I read through the final issue of Gourmet magazine with a tissue in hand, I was briefly cheered up by this delightful recipe for a Pumpkin Gingerbread Trifle. Whereas classic trifles are comprised of alternating layers of sponge cake and custard, this one swaps out sponge cake for robust gingerbread and replaces plain custard with a wispy pumpkin mousse. Once the layers of cake, mousse, and whipped cream have chilled and mingled in the fridge, this trifle is straight up delightful! It tastes of pumpkin pie with a cakey gingersnap crust.

This recipe calls for a two-quart trifle bowl or other deep serving bowl. I initially searched for one at Target, but came away empty handed. Thank goodness for Ross. I picked up the one pictured here for $6. Do you love it? I love it. I got it at Ross. The gingerbread (uncut) can be made one day ahead and kept in the pan at cool room temperature (covered once cool). The trifle, without the top layer of whipped cream, can be made one day ahead and chilled; whip half of the cream just before serving.

For gingerbread

  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 2 teaspoons ground ginger
  • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 stick unsalted butter, softened
  • 1 cup packed dark brown sugar
  • 1 large egg
  • 1/2 cup mild molasses (not robust or blackstrap)
  • 3/4 cup well-shaken buttermilk (not powdered)
  • 1/2 cup hot water

For pumpkin mousse

  • 1 (1/4-ounces) envelope unflavored gelatin
  • 1/4 cup cold water
  • 1 (15-ounces) can pure pumpkin
  • 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup chilled heavy cream
  • 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

For whipped cream

  • 1 1/2 cups chilled heavy cream
  • 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Make gingerbread

Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle. Butter a 13- by 9-inch baking pan. Line pan with foil, leaving an overhang at both ends, then butter foil.

Whisk together flour, baking soda, spices, and salt.

CREAMED BUTTER

Beat butter and brown sugar with an electric mixer at medium speed until pale and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Beat in egg until blended, then beat in molasses and buttermilk. At low speed, mix in flour mixture until smooth, then add hot water and beat 1 minute (batter may look curdled).

GINGERBREAD CUBES

Spread batter evenly in pan and bake until a wooden pick inserted into center comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Cool in pan. Using foil as an aid, transfer gingerbread to a cutting board and cut into 1-inch cubes with a serrated knife.

Make pumpkin mousse

PUMPKIN MOUSSE

Sprinkle gelatin over cold water in a small saucepan and let soften 1 minute. Bring to a simmer, stirring until gelatin has dissolved. Whisk together gelatin mixture, pumpkin, brown sugar, spices, and salt in a large bowl until combined well.

Beat cream with vanilla using cleaned beaters until it holds soft peaks, then fold into pumpkin mixture gently but thoroughly.

Make whipped cream

Beat cream with sugar and vanilla using mixer until it holds soft peaks.

Assemble trifle

ASSEMBLING PUMPKIN GINGERBREAD TRIFLE

Put half of gingerbread cubes in trifle bowl. Top with half of pumpkin mousse, then half of whipped cream. Repeat layering once more with all of remaining gingerbread, mousse, and cream. Garnish with a sprinkling of cinnamon or chopped crystallized ginger. Chill at least 2 hours before serving.

Makes 12 servings.

PUMPKIN GINGERBREAD TRIFLE

Recipe by Gina Marie Miraglia Eriquez from Gourmet, November 2009

Dec 2009

The Yard – Los Angeles (Santa Monica)

THE YARD FACADE

“Always fun to see which chefs actually show up at SaMo Farmers’ Market! Animal, La Cachette, Melisse, and The Yard were first in line,” tweeted @DanCoxPR early Wednesday morning. With plans to attend a media dinner at The Yard later that evening, I was stoked to hear that Chef Chris Jacobson was prepping for the event with fresh and seasonal ingredients.

SIGNAGE AND MENU

Chef Jacobson, better known as CJ from season 3 of Bravo’s Top Chef, came on board as The Yard’s executive chef this past October. Since his arrival, market-driven ingredients have guided the restaurant’s menu at every turn. With items like persimmons, burrata, and pig’s ears on the bill of fare, it’s clear that The Yard isn’t your average Santa Monica watering hole. I am admittedly more of an eater than a drinker, so I have a soft spot for gastropubs that put as much emphasis on the “gastro” menu as the “pub” one.

THE BAR

When The Astronomer and I arrived at The Yard around half past seven, the room was comfortably packed. After scoping out the scene at the bar, we quickly joined our party. Whereas most of the media events that I attend are comprised mostly of blogger-types, this one was an interesting mix of traditional print journalists and those in new media. One of my table mates, a loyal member of the old guard, informed me during our conversation that bloggers were killing newspapers. Let’s just say things got a little strange when I informed her that I was one of those evil bloggers. Oh, awkward!

THE WHISKEY WINTER AND HENDRIX MISTLETOE FIZZ

Before dinner officially started, The Astronomer and I sipped on two of The Yard’s holiday specialty cocktails. For him, a Whiskey Winter (honey, lemon juice, egg whites, bourbon, with vanilla and burnt orange garnish) and for her, a Hendrix Mistletoe Fizz (mint, lime juice, pomegranate, sugar, gin, egg whites with mint sprig and fresh pomegranate seeds). Both are priced at $10.

BURRATA AND PERSIMMONS

The first course was comprised of sliced Cinnamon persimmons with burrata, pomegranate, smoked almonds, balsamic, and basil ($10). The plate contained a myriad of different flavors and textures that I wasn’t sure would gel, but eaten all together, it all meshed in a very tasty way. The only glitch of the dish was that the persimmons weren’t peeled, so the finish wasn’t as smooth as it could’ve been.

PIG'S EARS

Next, we dug into a plate of fried pig ears with bacon, dates, and St. Pete’s blue cheese ($8). Based on the looks on everyone’s faces and the amount of food left uneaten, it was clear that The Astronomer and I were the table’s biggest fried pig ears fans. Blue cheese, bacon, and dates are a classic combination, throw into the mix some chewy pig ears, and something kind of magical happens.

SHIRMP AND GRITS

The final savory course of the evening was a unique interpretation of shrimp n’ grits ($12). The shrimp were tender, while the grits were rich and creamy. To put a unique spin on this classic Southern dish, the Chef added a spicy kale salad and an ultra-sweet mixture of maple syrup, walnuts, and pancetta. I was digging the Sriracha-infused kale, but the chunks of maple-coated walnuts were much too sweet. A little more restraint would’ve made this dish a winner.

CHOCOLATE CAKE

Finally, we were treated to an impromptu dessert that the Chef invented on the fly—chocolate bread pudding with spicy caramel mole sauce and pepitas. With distinct notes of chocolate, coffee, and chili, the thick and slightly savory mole tasted fantastic with the light chocolate cake. The dessert was an apt conclusion to one of the more interesting meals I’ve eaten in a while.

Thank you, Chef, for bringing pig ears to the beach.

The Yard *CLOSED*
119 Broadway
Santa Monica, CA 90401
Phone: 310-395-6037

Dec 2009

Porto’s Bakery – Los Angeles (Glendale)

PORTO'S BAKERY FACADE

Strolling around Porto’s Bakery on a bustling Saturday afternoon, it’s hard to imagine that the shop began over 35 years ago as a home-based business in Cuba. Since its humble beginnings, Porto’s Bakery has garnered a devoted following, outgrowing several locations and eventually settling into a 20,000 square foot building in the heart of Glendale.

Of all the fantastic restaurants in the city of Los Angeles, it’s Porto’s Bakery that has as come up time and again whenever a friend or acquaintance has recommended a local place for me to try. After receiving a half dozen solid endorsements for the place, I made a mental note to stop by the next time I found myself in Glendale.

PORTO'S BAKERY LINE OF CUSTOMERS

After procuring a wickedly sweet suit for The Astronomer at the Glendale Galleria a few weekends back, we made our way to Porto’s Bakery to see what the fuss was all about. I knew that the bakery was beloved by many, but the crowd waiting for their piece of the Porto pie was truly staggering. The staff on hand managed the amusement park-esque lines smoothly and professionally.

POTATO BALL INNARDS

Taking a cue from the customers ahead of us, The Astronomer and I ordered way more food than we had room to eat. The potato ball (85¢) was the lone savory item on our tray. The papa rellena was comprised of breaded and fried mashed potatoes filled with seasoned ground beef. The crunchy texture of the breading had me at first bite, while The Astronomer enjoyed the chili-like filling.

GUAVA PASTRY

The guava strudel (65¢), one of Porto’s most famous baked good, was as tasty as everyone told me it would be. The mildly sweet guava jam smothered in between flaky layers of buttery puff pastry really made this little rectangular sweet shine.

CHEESE PASTRY + CHEESE AND GAUVA PASTRY

The guava and cheese refugi (left – 65¢) and the cheese roll (right – 65¢) were on par with the guava strudel. The cream cheese filling in each one reminded me of Danish breakfast pastries. Puff pastry is an ingredient that I adore, but it quickly gets overwhelming. After taking a few bites from each one, we packed up the rest to go.

CREME BRULEE

I knew ordering a creme brulee ($2.50) at a Cuban bakery wasn’t the smartest move, but oftentimes my gluttony gets the best of me. Much to my surprise, Porto’s creme brulee was completely competent and exceeded my expectations by a mile. The sugary crust was uniformly caramelized, and the smooth custard contained tiny flecks of vanilla bean—two hallmarks of a great creme brulee.

After just one visit to Porto’s, I totally understand why every other Angeleno is crazy about the place. The vibe is fun, the prices are more than reasonable, and the food is perfectly enjoyable. Win. Win. Win.

Porto’s Bakery
315 North Brand Boulevard
Glendale, CA 91203
Phone: 818-956-5996