Aug 2009

La Diferencia – Tijuana

3:40 p.m. Stop number six on the Baja culinary blitz brought our group of roving gourmands to Juan Pablo Ussel’s La Diferencia. Located in the zona gastronomica, this nine-year-old restaurant differentiates itself from neighboring temples of alta cocina with its adventurous, Mexico City-inspired menu.

The bill of fare offers a panoply of delights, from national treasures like chiles en nogada to Oaxacan snacks like chapulines (grasshoppers), escamoles (ant eggs), and gusanos de maguey (maguey worms). There truly is something for everyone at La Diferencia.

Our group settled in nicely in the Don Fernando patio—a shady space accented with bold colored tablecloths and chairs. We were served cool tamarind margaritas to start. The icy shards of sweet and sour were incredibly refreshing, especially in the late afternoon heat with impending food comas threatening to take hold.

Under normal circumstances, like when I haven’t eaten five meals prior, I would’ve killed the chips, salsa, and bean dip. However, with limited gastro real estate available, I could only muster two nibbles. The black bean dip sprinkled with cotija cheese was served just warm enough and was so hearty that I wished it was cold out.

Creepy critters were unfortunately out of season during our visit to La Diferencia, so we had to settle for dramatically less crawly options. We started off with spears of Mexican-style caprese salads (left). The skewers included nopales (cactus), panela cheese, red onions, and tomatoes drizzled in a green salsa. My first encounter with nopales was extremely positive. Its okra-like texture and bell pepper-like flavor was a novel treat for my jaded palate.

Next, came molotes—fried corn cakes stuffed with cheese and jalapeños (right). The molotes were dense pockets of cheesy peppery goodness; a definite crowd pleaser.

The star of the La Diferencia show were the crepas de huitlacoche, a classic Mexico City dish of corn fungus crepes smothered in poblano salsa. Interestingly, crepes arrived in Mexico during the period of French intervention. I was expecting some major funk in the fungus department, but both the flavor and texture of this dish were very mild and delicate. While I frown upon colonization, I do approve of the French imposing their culinary values upon others. The results are almost always delightful.

La Diferencia
10611 Sánchez Taboada, Zona Río
Tijuana, BC, Mexico
Phone: 664-634-3346

BAJA BITES: 2 Days, 3 Cities, 18 Meals
Introduction > 1 > 2 > 3 > 4 > 5 > 6 > 7 > 8 > 9 > 10 > 11 > 12 > 13 > 14 > 15 > 16 > 17 > 18

Aug 2009

Apple Spice Cake

My boy’s been in Canada for the past week attending a solar physics conference. Although I missed him quite a lot, being home alone definitely had its merits. It was a pleasure listening to Fergie at full volume without any jeers and even better baking peanut buttery desserts without having to consider a certain someone’s negative sentiments. But now that I’ve had my solo fun, it’s time to welcome The Astronomer back home. And what better way to say “Hello, darling!” than with a warm cake fresh out of the oven.

When I stumbled upon this recipe for the “best apple cake of the whole wide world” at The Cookie Shop earlier in the week, I knew it would be perfect. The Astronomer has a weakness for all things cinnamon and a deep affinity for Bundt molds. Down in South Carolina where this recipe originates, the cake is served with a drizzling of caramel sauce. We were very happy Yankees eating the cake in its natural glory.

  • Nonstick cooking spray with flour
  • 3 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
  • 1 tablespoon ground cloves (optional)
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 1/3 cups vegetable oil
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 3 large eggs
  • 2 to 3 Granny Smith apples, cored and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (3 cups)
  • 1 cup chopped assorted nuts, such as pecans and walnuts (optional)
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray a 12-cup Bundt pan with cooking spray; set aside.

Working over a large sheet of parchment paper, sift together flour, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt; gather sifted ingredients into center of sheet; set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine vegetable oil, sugar, and eggs; mix on high speed until lemon yellow.

Fold reserved parchment in half lengthwise; with mixer on medium speed, gradually shake in dry ingredients until just incorporated.

Add apples and, if desired, nuts, to batter; mix to combine. Add vanilla, mixing until incorporated.

Pour batter into prepared pan, and bake until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean, 75 to 90 minutes.

Remove from oven, and cool slightly on a wire rack. Invert cake onto rack; turn cake right-side up to cool completely on rack, and serve drizzled with caramel sauce.

Recipe by Dorothy Mae Brown courtesy of Martha Stewart.

Aug 2009

Mama’s Lu – Monterey Park

MAMA'S LU DUMPLING HOUSE - MONTEREY PARK

My mama always taught me to be a savvy spender. To show her that all those long lectures about the value of the dollar didn’t fall upon deaf ears, I took her to Mama’s Lu. I really could’ve taken her to any number of cheap and delicious Chinese restaurants in the San Gabriel Valley, but it seemed most appropriate to dine with my mama at a placed named after someone else’s mama.

MAMA'S LU DUMPLING HOUSE - MONTEREY PARK

Mama’s Lu came highly recommended to me by Danny of Kung Food Panda. Even though he led me astray once with an unfortunate stinky tofu experience, I still trust him one-hundred percent when it comes to good eats. Mama’s Lu is owned by the daughter of Dean Sin World proprietress, Ms. Lu. Not only did Ms. Lu pass on her superior dumpling making genes, but she also gifted her daughter with a knack for giving restaurants awkward names.

MAMA'S LU DUMPLING HOUSE - MONTEREY PARK

The Astronomer, Rosalind (The Astronomer’s lil’ sister), and I arrived at the restaurant before my mama did, so we snacked on complimentary peanuts while perusing the menu.

MAMA'S LU DUMPLING HOUSE - MONTEREY PARK

When it came time to order, I followed Danny’s advice to a T. We started off with a Green Onion Cake ($1.99), which falls under the category of northern Chinese “bread food.” The texture of the thin pancake was crisp, slightly chewy, and not bogged down by too much oil. The chopped scallions provided a splash of color and flavor. I slathered my slices with chili oil because food tastes better when it burns a little.

MAMA'S LU DUMPLING HOUSE - MONTEREY PARK

Next, we dug into a huge plate of Shanghai Rice Cakes ($5.99), my favorite dish of the evening. The smooth discs of joy were sauteed with pork, mushrooms, carrots, scallions, and cabbage in a savory soy-based sauce. The rice cake’s quick fry in the wok imparted an overall smoky quality to the dish.

I hereby revoke the name “rice cake” from those tasteless cardboard messes found in the breakfast aisle at every American grocery stores. They give rice cakes a dreadful name.

MAMA'S LU DUMPLING HOUSE

To add to our lovely meal of bread foods, my mama ordered a bowl of Shrimp Wonton Noodle Soup ($3.50). Mama didn’t care too much for the wheat noodles, but she liked the meaty dumplings very much. I thought that the mild broth married nicely with the noodly strands and plump wontons.

MAMA'S LU DUMPLING HOUSE - MONTEREY PARK

The Juicy Pork Dumplings ($4.50) arrived hot out of the steamer with the requisite shredded ginger on the side. While not quite as juicy as the xiao long bao from Din Tai Fung, Mama’s Lu’s dumplings were well-priced and hit the spot.

MAMA'S LU DUMPLING HOUSE

My mama loved Mama’s Lu so much that she ordered some Pan Fried Dumplings ($4.50) to-go for breakfast the next morning.

The northern Chinese food served up at Mama’s Lu is some of the best around and the prices, well, they make me feel like I’m cheating someone. In the words of the late Tupac Shakur, “My mama didn’t raise no fool.”

Mama’s Lu
153 East Garvey Avenue
Monterey Park, CA 91755
Phone: 626-307-5700