May 2007

Crepêrie Beau Monde – Philadelphia

April 27, 2007
Cuisine: French, Desserts & Bakeries, Other

624 S 6th Street, Philadelphia 19147
At Bainbridge St

Phone: 215-592-0656
Website: www.creperie-beaumonde.com

Entree I: Mushrooms/Champignons Buckwheat Crêpe – saute of wild & domestic mushrooms & mushroom sauce ($6.50)

Entree II: Andouille Sausage/Saucisse Bretonne Buckwheat Crêpe – a Breton specialty with creamed spinach ($9.50)

Dessert: Wheat Crêpe with Bananas and Dulce de Leche ($6.75)

My lovely friend Adrienne came for a short but sweet visit late last week from upstate New York. She was in the mood for crêpes so we headed to Beau Monde—one of my all-time favorite eateries. Even though Philadelphia is chalk full of restaurant possibilities, I keep returning to Beau Monde time after time for the freedom to craft my own creations and the thoughtfulness the kitchen puts into each delicate crêpe.

An early dinner was in order because Adrienne needed to head down to D.C., while I needed to watch The Astronomer rock it at Penn Relays. Beau Monde is often packed on evenings, but was nearly empty at four in the afternoon which meant guaranteed attentive service and a beautiful space to ourselves.

Adrienne once had a delectable creamed spinach crêpe that she was hoping the chefs at Beau Monde could match. She added some Andouille Sausage to spice things up a bit. Much to her delight, the crêpe exceeded her expectations. The spinach was vibrantly green and creamed perfectly and the sausage was plentiful and flavorful. Beau Monde’s crêpe is now the gold standard that Adrienne uses to measure all future crêpes by.

I chose the simple mushroom crêpe and it wholly hit the spot. The buckwheat crêpe was generously filled with mouth-watering sauteed mushrooms and drizzled with a luscious mushroom cream sauce. The crêpe was crisp around the edges and softer in the middle making each bite just a little different from the one before. The woodsy intensity of the mushrooms was like no other.

We shared my favorite sweet crêpe combination, bananas with dulce de leche, for our finale. The bananas are lightly caramelized, doused with thick dulce de leche, wrapped in a wheat crêpe, and sprinkled with powdered sugar. There aren’t words magnificent enough to describe the awesomeness of this crepe. Adrienne, who isn’t too big on caramel, was speechless after her first bite. Honestly, it’s that good!

Beau Monde on Urbanspoon

Apr 2007

A Cook’s Tour: In Search of the Perfect Meal – Anthony Bourdain

About: A Cook’s Tour is the written record of Anthony Bourdain’s travels around the world in his search for the perfect meal. All too conscious of the state of his 44-year-old knees after a working life standing at restaurant stoves, but with the unlooked-for jackpot of Kitchen Confidential as collateral, Mr. Bourdain evidently concluded he needed a bit more wind under his wings.The idea of “perfect meal” in this context is to be taken to mean not necessarily the most upscale, chi-chi, three-star dining experience, but the ideal combination of food, atmosphere, and company. This would take in fishing villages in Vietnam, bars in Cambodia, and Tuareg camps in Morocco (roasted sheep’s testicle, as it happens); it would stretch to smoked fish and sauna in the frozen Russian countryside and the French Laundry in California’s Napa Valley. It would mean exquisitely refined kaiseki rituals in Japan after yakitori with drunken salarymen. Deep-fried Mars Bars in Glasgow and Gordon Ramsay in London. The still-beating heart of a cobra in Saigon. Drink. Danger. Guns. All with a TV crew in tow for the accompanying series–22 episodes of video gold, we are assured, featuring many don’t-try-this-at-home shots of the author in gastric distress or crawling into yet another storm drain at four in the morning.

You are unlikely to lay your hands on a more hectically, strenuously entertaining book for some time. Our hero eats and swashbuckles round the globe with perfect-pitch attitude and liberal use of judiciously placed profanities. Bourdain can write. His timing is great. He is very funny and is under no illusions whatsoever about himself or anyone else. But most of all, he is a chef who got himself out of his kitchen and found, all over the world, people who understand that eating well is the foundation of harmonious living. –Robin Davidson, Amazon.co.uk

My thoughts: The verdict is in—I don’t like Anthony Bourdain. Sure, he says some humorous things now and again about the Food Network, but I hate how he can’t go a chapter without referencing his penis or someone’s rack. How irrelevant and uncouth! He’s also a little racist (or maybe just brainless) because he titled his chapter on Nha Trang, a beach town in Vietnam, “Can Charlie Surf?” Are you kidding me?

What bothers me the most about Bourdain is that he fancies himself as a no nonsense chef with street credibility; the antithesis of Rachael Ray and company. When in reality he needs to embrace the sell-out within because he most definitely did sell-out. His continual biting of the hand that feeds him is lame. Own it Bourdain!

While my feelings for the man are lukewarm at best, the book was actually a decent read when Bourdain wasn’t being vulgar or offensive. His travels to Russia and Morocco were especially interesting because their cuisine is often overlooked and under-appreciated. He made borsch and cous cous sound like world class offerings. His dinner at the French Laundry was also a pleasure to read.

The book’s concept was interesting, but I would’ve enjoyed it a lot more if someone other than Bourdain wrote it. Say, Ruth Reichl?

Apr 2007

Tria – Philadelphia

April 24, 2007
Cuisine: Tapas, Eclectic & International

123 S 18th St, Philadelphia 19103
Btwn Stock Exchange Pl & Sansom St

Phone: 215-972-8742
Website: www.triacafe.com

Bruschetta: Brie with Balsamic-Blackberries and Tarragon ($4)

“Snack” I: Warm Poached Black Mission Figs with Gorgonzola and Prosciutto di Parma ($5 ½)

“Snack” II: Roasted Beets with Bulgarian Feta Cheese ($3 ½)

Dessert: Warm Blackberry and White Chocolate Bread Pudding with Citrus-Caramel and Blackberry Sauces ($6 ½)

In the mood for a light and interesting dinner after boozing at Rum Bar, my friend Anna and I headed over to Tria. I’ve walked by this eatery on several occasions and thought their menu looked enticing and especially liked how fractions are are used in place of decimals for prices. I appreciate the little things.

The menu at Tria features “snacks,” bruschetta, sandwiches, and salads. All food is priced under $10. I love small plate establishments because I’m able to pick and choose distinct flavor combinations that pique my interest, rather than committing to an entire entree where I may be indifferent to some components. I’ve been known to recreate this small plate freedom at regular restaurants by ordering two appetizers or several sides for my meal.

On this evening, all of our dishes were brought out at once (I think I’ll ask for a staggered delivery next time). We started with the Brie with Balsamic-Blackberries and Tarragon. The berries were wonderfully tart and the Brie was smooth and mild. Although I have had grapes and apples paired with cheese on many occasions, I have never had berries. The simplicity of each flavor came together nicely on the toasted baguette round.

Anna, me

My favorite plate of the evening was the Warm Poached Black Mission Figs with Gorgonzola and Prosciutto di Parma. The figs were tepid and oh so sweet; I love the texture of the fruit’s tiny seeds against my teeth. The salty Prosciutto and melted Gorgonzola paired well with the figs; each bite was intensely flavorful. Anna, who is not a fan of Gorgonzola, found the flavors too overwhelming.

The Roasted Beets with Bulgarian Feta Cheese was another simple, but winning dish. Anna and I found Bulgarian feta milder and less salty than its Greek counterpart. The beets were refreshing and calmed the cheese’s bite.

We finished off with Tria’s most popular dessert: a Warm Blackberry and White Chocolate Bread Pudding with Citrus-Caramel and Blackberry Sauces. The bread pudding was more cake-like than bread puddings I’ve had in the past and overall very tart, especially with the citrus and berry sauces. When it comes to desserts, my palate leans toward sickeningly sweet, so I was not blown away by this creation. I think the Banana, Caramel and Mascarpone Panino ($6) will be a good choice on my next visit.

Tria on Urbanspoon